slyfox03

I am in the process of tearing my 1.6 down in order to chance bearings, hone cylinders etc. and find out what condition it is in as I have not been into the engine yet. Any suggestions as to easy mods that should be done while the engine is out? And what brand of head gasket and bearings?

It is a 1.6L with a FMII turbo (garrett T24) running about 12PSI

Here is a list of things I plan to accomplish so far:
main bearings
rings
head gasket
oil pressure sending unit
oil temperature sensor
hone block
head studs?
Coolant reroute?
Turbo rebuild kit

18psi

iTrader: (76)

h-beam rods

Savington

iTrader: (31)

H-beams and a Cometic head gasket. Leave everything else stock.

gospeed81

iTrader: (51)

This.

Coolant route is a good idea while it's out...and you can do some bowl blending if you're feeling up to it.

slyfox03

Good suggestion on bowl blending; I am certainly up to it.

I will probably pass on the h-beams unless someone knows where to get them for cheap (unless they are absolutely necessary). I am on a rather tight budget unless of course this is the limiting factor in increasing the boost

I read a long thread on main bearings last night but it left me just as confused. This will be a daily driver; any thoughts? OEM or Clevite?

Also is there a way to tell for sure if the turbo needs rebuilt? Both the intake side and the exhaust side have a tiny bit of movement if you try to wiggle them back and forth.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

buy my pistons to go with those rods :P
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-parts-sale-trade-5/fs-supertech-8-8-1-pistons-1-6-a-53423/

The rods in the group buy here or on 949 racing website are fairly cheap.
rods tend to to be in a sketchy zone above ~230wtq

krayzrac3r

Really? So about 400 bucks into the motor and he'll be fine? I'm not doubting you or anything just curious. Don't the piston rings suck ***** on the oem pistons as well?

gospeed81

iTrader: (51)

Rods are definitely worth it if you're doing anything. Can be had on eBay for $220, or from one of our reputable vendors with ARP fasteners for $300.

The difference is pushing it at <250 and being comfortable between 250-300.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Wow you are deciding to pass on one of the single most important things to upgrade in our engines.
While choosing to do a bunch of others that really aren't necessary.
good luck with that

Savington

iTrader: (31)

They are absolutely necessary. If you rebuild a motor with aftermarket parts and you don't swap the rods for forged h-beams, expect endless ridicule and a probable dick avatar on this forum.

Gotpsi?

iTrader: (5)

Get a good valve job, and make sure the guides and seals are good. maybe a little home brew head porting before hand while you are blending the bowls.

slyfox03

so h-beam rods it is. I hadn't priced them before and i figure while I am in the engine I might as well do it right. Pistons are okay stock though? I am pulling the block tonight and should know a lot more.

Any vendors sell a rebuild kit for a t24? I can move the shaft up and down just a tiny bit and the intercooler pipes have some oil residue in them.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

You have to check pistons over and make the decision whether "they're good enough".

Pull em, clean em to near mirror shine, make sure there's no detonation all over em or scratches/inperfections, re-ring and you should be good. rods really are not expensive: from 200 for no name to 300 for name brand.

fmowry

iTrader: (8)

1.8

slyfox03

Looks like I am now in the market for pistons. I started cleaning the #4 piston and it is very porous on the edge and down to the ring groove. Any idea what causes this?

The block is honed and is stock bore. Anybody have a good deal on stock bore pistons? Are the aftermarket pistons worth it or are stockers good for my app.?

Gotpsi?

iTrader: (5)

detonation

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

make me an offer... they are sitting in box on my desk ready to be shipped out.

zbossrt

u got mail!

slyfox03

Need a little help regarding pistons. I found some stock pistons for cheap however three have 6 F cast into the side near the wrist pin and 1 has 5 F. They look the same other than the 5 F piston top being a bit smoother (less pits where the pistons are clearanced for valves).

I believe my origional pistons are 7 F but will have to check for sure. My question is whether or not the 6 F pistons are the same. Any idea?

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Doubt it. May refer to the overbore size. You need to be careful with wall clearances when you hone a motor and swap pistons.