Engine Performance This section is for discussion on all engine building related questions.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: KPower

Bought a 99 head with bent valves. Input needed.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-06-2012, 11:31 AM
  #1  
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Tyler01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Goldsboro N.C.
Posts: 36
Total Cats: 0
Default Bought a 99 head with bent valves. Input needed.

First a little background:
I finally have all my ducks in a row and I am about to start the build on my 97. The idea is to have a affordable and reliable Track/auto-x car, with low maintenance cost (The 949 rental formula).

So I buy this head, I take it home and measure the valve lash and its out of spec. That sucks, because the seller said it had been "adjusted" recently- whatever its a used part. I take the head to the machine shop and drop it off to be checked and shaved. In the meantime I go home and do the math for the shims I need, and discover they don't make a shim thick enough to get the lash within limits on a few of the valve's. Then on cue the machinist calls and confirms what I suspected, I had some bent valves.

So right now my problem is this- Do I go all in and just go ahead and build the head with the better valvetrain components or should I just cut my losses and focus on the areas of the car that I want (suspension/safety)

Your input will be appreciated.
Tyler01 is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 11:44 AM
  #2  
Elite Member
iTrader: (11)
 
miatauser884's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,959
Total Cats: 11
Default

I thinksomeone was selling some Valves on the forum. Tough call, but I think I woulg go with new +1 valves, springs, backcut, 3, angle job, to raise redline and flow. I think but heads retain there value pretty well, which is good if you ever decide to part with it. Just make sure you keep all receipts for parts and work done.

Other option. abandon this head a spend money on a good vvt head. Assuming you have a way to control vvt, then gains might offset a built 99 head. Im no knowledgeable enough about vvt to make tis call.
miatauser884 is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 11:56 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
2ndGearRubber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 1,163
Total Cats: 12
Default

The goal is cheap and reliable. Put new/used oem parts back in it (preferably used ones) and just go beat the **** out of it. That's the 949 formula, right?
2ndGearRubber is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 12:00 PM
  #4  
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
Default

If you are going to track the car, do SS or SS/Inco valves. If not, stock valvetrain will work.
hustler is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 12:54 PM
  #5  
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Tyler01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Goldsboro N.C.
Posts: 36
Total Cats: 0
Default

Originally Posted by djp0623
I thinksomeone was selling some Valves on the forum.
LOL yes,I had seen that thread, they were sold by the time I got word from the machine shop, it was the first option I thought of.

I also checked with the local mazda dealer here and the OEM valves are significantly more expensive than supertech's. So If I have to spend the money might as well get something better.

Has anyone ever used the supertech valves with stock retainers? I dont really like the idea but I didnt want to put much into the internals of the engine yet, at least until I get the suspension/rolllbar/ wheels and tires and brakes sorted out.

Im not worried about price, but within my budget it may mean the differance between XIDA CS and Koni Race/GC coilovers.
Tyler01 is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 02:31 PM
  #6  
Elite Member
 
flounder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Detroit
Posts: 1,524
Total Cats: 31
Default

I discovered a bent exhaust valve when I did my rebuild the first time around. A new stock sized one was like $8 if I remember correctly? You can just replace the bad ones if you're on a budget, but I would let the shop make that call.
flounder is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 02:54 PM
  #7  
Junior Member
iTrader: (8)
 
kaisersoze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 401
Total Cats: 9
Default

I am pretty sure I have a bunch of stock valve train components-you need how many stock valves? If I have them I'll send them to you for the cost of shipping
kaisersoze is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 07:06 PM
  #8  
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Tyler01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Goldsboro N.C.
Posts: 36
Total Cats: 0
Default

Flounder did you buy yours from mazda? Because the parts guy here quoted me $50.54 per valve for the exhaust and 31.34 for the intake. That seemed REALLY REALLY high to me, like Vegas call girl type price.

Thanks Kaisersoze, I will know more on Monday when I talk to the machinist, from looking at the head myself there on Friday I would say that most if not all the intake valves are bent. I will definitively let you know, at least let me paypal you some beer money for the trouble lol.
Tyler01 is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 07:20 PM
  #9  
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Tyler01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Goldsboro N.C.
Posts: 36
Total Cats: 0
Default

And it's not like the offending valve's are bent a lot, just enough that I couldn't see any light in the runner when I checked when I picked it up, before it was cleaned. The deposits on the valves were just enough to fill the gap. I dont think it was a broken T-belt or over rev that caused it then, because they would be really bent from that. I think who ever installed it last bolted the head down with the cams out of time.
Tyler01 is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 07:50 PM
  #10  
Elite Member
 
flounder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Detroit
Posts: 1,524
Total Cats: 31
Default

I bought mine from a local engine parts shop. I do get parts at a discount, but I can't imagine it being more than 15 bucks a piece for EX valves, maybe slightly more for an IN. Did you try rockauto.com?

The miata's engine is non-interference, so if the machine shop says it's bent it's probably due to over rev or mishandling of the head when it was off the vehicle.
flounder is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 07:59 PM
  #11  
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Tyler01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Goldsboro N.C.
Posts: 36
Total Cats: 0
Default

I haven't tried rockauto.com yet, I'll look them up now
Tyler01 is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 08:55 PM
  #12  
Elite Member
 
flounder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Detroit
Posts: 1,524
Total Cats: 31
Default

Rockauto has them for 9-10 bucks each.
flounder is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 09:20 PM
  #13  
Junior Member
iTrader: (8)
 
kaisersoze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 401
Total Cats: 9
Default

I really don't mind. I have a bunch of extra stuff from various heads I have. I bought JayL's old VVT head and it has a built valvetrain as well so I really have no need of all of these stock valves-most of them are cleaned up. You need some valve springs too? check your old ones to make sure they in spec if you don't replace them with supertechs(which I would recommend). I just don't want to eat the shipping costs(which will be nominal)
kaisersoze is offline  
Old 05-06-2012, 09:26 PM
  #14  
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Tyler01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Goldsboro N.C.
Posts: 36
Total Cats: 0
Default

Yep, Ill probably go this route. I don't mind putting the money in for better stuff, but there are more important things to be addressed right now (w/ the car as a whole) And i'm not looking for anymore than 160 hp or to spin it any higher in the long run anyway.
Thanks for the help
Tyler01 is offline  
Old 05-07-2012, 10:33 AM
  #15  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
BogusSVO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Pensacola Fla.
Posts: 588
Total Cats: 203
Default

I wouls shy away from the "cheap" replacement valves and get good used OE ones.

SOME of the OE replacement valves are a 2 peice design, that means the stem is heat welded to the valve head, and that is a weak spot.

If you were doing a box stock NA build they would be fine. But if you are going to up the numbers down the road, get a good aftermarket SS or OE valve.
BogusSVO is offline  
Old 05-07-2012, 10:56 AM
  #16  
Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
 
leatherface24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Pembroke Pines
Posts: 4,064
Total Cats: 10
Default

youre fortunate that this is your issue. could've been way worse....just swap the valves for stock and be done with it
leatherface24 is offline  
Old 05-07-2012, 10:18 PM
  #17  
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Tyler01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Goldsboro N.C.
Posts: 36
Total Cats: 0
Default

Yep that's whats been done, only four of them ended up being bent.
Tyler01 is offline  
Old 05-14-2012, 09:27 PM
  #18  
Junior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
blkmkiii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 294
Total Cats: -175
Default

you already have the entire head apart. Do a valve job. You will take materiel from the valve seat out raising the valve. No need for shims, now take the measurements and start fresh, you should have more then enough room to work with. Id take .0020 off the head since your in there. Get a little compression bump.
blkmkiii is offline  
Old 05-16-2012, 09:57 PM
  #19  
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Tyler01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Goldsboro N.C.
Posts: 36
Total Cats: 0
Default

Yep, I got the head back last week- valve job, 4 new valves, seals and shaved the head .015
Tyler01 is offline  
Old 05-17-2012, 12:08 PM
  #20  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
BogusSVO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Pensacola Fla.
Posts: 588
Total Cats: 203
Default

.015 is a wack to take off.

Your head was warped that bad? Or was there other surface imperfections that needed milled out?

Post a pic of your surface finish.
BogusSVO is offline  


Quick Reply: Bought a 99 head with bent valves. Input needed.



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:37 AM.