Engine Performance This section is for discussion on all engine building related questions.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: KPower

Car wont start! Help!

Old 04-11-2013, 08:53 AM
  #41  
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,483
Total Cats: 4,076
Default

wait wut?
Braineack is online now  
Old 04-11-2013, 09:19 AM
  #42  
Junior Member
 
tpwalsh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 191
Total Cats: 8
Default

Originally Posted by Braineack
wait wut?
Glad I'm not the only one confused. Did you add a ground wire? or a new wire to the injectors for power?
tpwalsh is offline  
Old 04-11-2013, 03:30 PM
  #43  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
94LagunaR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 155
Total Cats: 1
Default

Originally Posted by tpwalsh
Glad I'm not the only one confused. Did you add a ground wire? or a new wire to the injectors for power?
I didn't add a new ground, but I took the original ground and spliced some off and grounded it and that did nothing. How should I wire a new wire to the injectors for power? Just run them the same way the original is running?

http://www.madracki.com/miata/images/wiring/94sys.pdf

On page 8 is the diagram I'm looking at. It looks to me like the blue/white wire that I found which is nearly broken (there is like on small copper strand holding it together) runs from the Powertrain Control module (engine) to the Powertrain Control module (transmission)
94LagunaR is offline  
Old 04-11-2013, 06:06 PM
  #44  
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,483
Total Cats: 4,076
Default

Wait, is your car working again now or not?

do you have an auto trans?
Braineack is online now  
Old 04-11-2013, 08:33 PM
  #45  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
94LagunaR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 155
Total Cats: 1
Default

Originally Posted by Braineack
wait wut?
Originally Posted by Braineack
Wait, is your car working again now or not?

do you have an auto trans?
No, I was joking. I thought triple88a was being an *** because I screwed up on the electrical stuff so I just kinda blew off what he said. Was he not joking? And no the car is a manual
94LagunaR is offline  
Old 04-11-2013, 08:41 PM
  #46  
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
triple88a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 10,453
Total Cats: 1,796
Default

I was joking, wasnt being an ***.
triple88a is offline  
Old 04-11-2013, 08:46 PM
  #47  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
94LagunaR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 155
Total Cats: 1
Default

Originally Posted by triple88a
I was joking, wasnt being an ***.
Okay that's what I thought. Do you have any real suggestions to my issue?
94LagunaR is offline  
Old 04-11-2013, 08:48 PM
  #48  
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
triple88a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 10,453
Total Cats: 1,796
Default

No clue, my guess would be the wire reroutes are to blame.
triple88a is offline  
Old 04-11-2013, 08:56 PM
  #49  
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Erat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
Default

I like how i did 3 pages with him on CR for about a month, or more.

This thread, in a couple days, 3 pages....


Still no solution.
Erat is offline  
Old 04-11-2013, 09:12 PM
  #50  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
94LagunaR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 155
Total Cats: 1
Default

Originally Posted by Erat
I like how i did 3 pages with him on CR for about a month, or more.

This thread, in a couple days, 3 pages....


Still no solution.
I was just explaining that to someone how in over a month it took to get 3 pages on the stance-website with no result. In 2 days 3 pages on the turbo/engine/people who are educated about important things not just slammed cars-website

I want to know more about connecting a new power wire to the injectors. Would i just stick a new wire and run it to the relay following the original one? What about the other wire that's connected to the injector?
94LagunaR is offline  
Old 04-11-2013, 09:15 PM
  #51  
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Erat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
Default

Well, run a diagnostic on it before putting a new wire in(which seems silly and pointless).

Maybe i missed it, but if you're not getting the required *signal to the injector(s) it's for a reason. Wires just don't stop working for not reason. Resistance check?

Do you have a fluke meter by chance?
Erat is offline  
Old 04-11-2013, 09:35 PM
  #52  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
94LagunaR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 155
Total Cats: 1
Default

Originally Posted by Erat
Well, run a diagnostic on it before putting a new wire in(which seems silly and pointless).

Maybe i missed it, but if you're not getting the required *signal to the injector(s) it's for a reason. Wires just don't stop working for not reason. Resistance check?

Do you have a fluke meter by chance?
I started de-looming the injector wiring harness today, spliced together the blue/white that I talked about and will continue tomorrow. I have a multi-meter, if that's what you mean by fluke meter.

The part I don't understand is that I drove the car after the tuck and it was fine. Also, the pump seemed to not be working well anymore. It still pumped fuel but when I removed the line under the hood, it was barely coming out. The fuel pump relay seems to have gone bad at the same time as well...
94LagunaR is offline  
Old 04-11-2013, 09:46 PM
  #53  
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
triple88a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 10,453
Total Cats: 1,796
Default

If anything is going through holes in the sheet metal check those areas, could have cut through the wires.
triple88a is offline  
Old 04-12-2013, 07:35 AM
  #54  
Junior Member
 
tpwalsh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 191
Total Cats: 8
Default

Your symtoms are not happening in isolation. The "bad FP relay" is not an additional problem, but a manifestation of the same issue. Figure out one, and you'll have the other figured out. I seriously doubt the relay itself is bad, my bet is it's not getting it's activation power/signal
tpwalsh is offline  
Old 04-12-2013, 08:32 AM
  #55  
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,483
Total Cats: 4,076
Default

Originally Posted by 94LagunaR
And no the car is a manual
then why are you worried about a wire that's only useful if you have an auto trans?

you need to figure out why your injectors don't have 12v on the white/red wires but your CAS and diagnostic connector have 12v, when they are connected to the same wire.

once you return 12v to your injectors, the car will run.
Braineack is online now  
Old 04-12-2013, 09:06 AM
  #56  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
94LagunaR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 155
Total Cats: 1
Default

Originally Posted by Braineack
then why are you worried about a wire that's only useful if you have an auto trans?

you need to figure out why your injectors don't have 12v on the white/red wires but your CAS and diagnostic connector have 12v, when they are connected to the same wire.

once you return 12v to your injectors, the car will run.
I was worried about it because it looked like the wire had been chewed through, smd seemed rather important. As for the injectors not getting 12v, first of all, will they see 12v with the car in RUN or only while cranking?
94LagunaR is offline  
Old 04-12-2013, 09:35 AM
  #57  
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,483
Total Cats: 4,076
Default

they sure as hell better see power on RUN, but yes, they should be powered on ON, RUN, and cranking.

anytime you see power in the diagnostics port on B+, so shall the injectors. PLEASE finally test this.
Braineack is online now  
Old 04-12-2013, 09:59 AM
  #58  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
94LagunaR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 155
Total Cats: 1
Default

Originally Posted by Braineack
they sure as hell better see power on RUN, but yes, they should be powered on ON, RUN, and cranking.

anytime you see power in the diagnostics port on B+, so shall the injectors. PLEASE finally test this.
I did check it, refer to page 2. Im getting 11.7v to B+
94LagunaR is offline  
Old 04-12-2013, 10:20 AM
  #59  
Junior Member
 
tpwalsh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 191
Total Cats: 8
Default

Originally Posted by 94LagunaR
I did check it, refer to page 2. Im getting 11.7v to B+
Yep, but what are you getting at the injector? B+ is a nice place to check, but the injector is where it really counts. Remember we suspect your wiring due to the tuck you did.
tpwalsh is offline  
Old 04-12-2013, 10:58 AM
  #60  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
94LagunaR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 155
Total Cats: 1
Default

Originally Posted by tpwalsh
Yep, but what are you getting at the injector? B+ is a nice place to check, but the injector is where it really counts. Remember we suspect your wiring due to the tuck you did.
Braineack wanted me to check B+. To clarify im getting 11.7 at B+ and 0 at the injectors.
94LagunaR is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Car wont start! Help!



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:54 AM.