WARNING!!! If you are an experienced builder some things you will see here may really upset your stomach.
OK guys, about one year and a half ago the oil pump on my car failed idling in my garage. The head was making sounds and sure enough the oil pressure gauge was down at zero. Because I was hearing noises I decided to get a new 70k miles JDM engine. I installed the engine in the car after replacing all gaskets and seals (not the head gasket) and it has been running perfectly all this time, about 10k miles. There was only a single thing I did wrong with my install aparently (torque the crank bolt properly). If you read my first post on this forum, some time ago there were some things I could not explain about my large timing numbers. Below is a link to the post:
Timing map tunning and various other questions.
One day I decided to inquire a little more about my unussualy high timing numbers and I took off the pulley and sparkplug #1. Even though I had checked the pulley a few times in the past I must have not indexed the cylinder at TDC correctly. I quickly noticed something, it was an instant "ohh crap" moment, It explained all the problems I was having before. See the picture below. Retarded timing, The hub was at a different angle than the gear was!. It turns out that the crank bolt had backed slightly. Just enough to get the threads inside FULL of dirt and key/keyway filings. This caused the bolt to seize into the crank. I tried to remove the bolt and I was using too much force, it felt really stuck. Then I chickened out and tried to tighten it instead of removing it and the damn thing just snapped.
There is no need to mention that the keyway was toast. Below is a picture of the key itself:
Seeing this mess I decided to take averything out and refresh my engine.
The damage pictured:
Then, I separated the engine and transmission to find my FM Stage 1 clutch kit looking beautiful. Not a drop of oil from the rear crank seal as expected. Anyways, This is how I loosen the bolts that hold the flywheel. Maybe not the best way but it works for sure. This rope is a little stretchy so there must be something better out there.
Once I got the flywheel off, I bolted on my engine stand to the block:
This looks ridiculous but at least I dont have to force my back. In case you can not tell from the picture, the engine stand is actually hanging from the engine pulled by the hoist. Once everything is bolted together I lower the hoist. Now the engine stand is supporting the engine not the hoist. At this point I started to take the intake manifold and the turbo off of the block. The hoist was kept on just in case I tipped over the stand.
Picture of the head's intake ports:
It looks like my water/methanol injection is keeping those ports/valves clean. Then, to remove the head without causing harm to it. I used the hoist to slightly "break the glue off". Notice the valve cover was on. I felt that not having it in would somehow hurt/bend the hollow head. Once it was loose I took off the hoist's attachments and gently lifted it up by hand and put it on top of an old towel on my workbench.
Picture of the gasket and block's deck:
Looking at the piston tops and the head's combustion chamber was upsetting. Look at all that carbon! Because This crank is somewhat messed up I am going to use my old engine's crankshaft. Look at a picture of the worse looking journal:
Looks pretty darned good to me!. Those fine little cratches can not be felt using my finger nails. I guess that the fact that the pump failed while idling, using mobil 1 synthetic oil and I did not delayed much to turn the engine off kept everything looking great. Anyone thinks otherwise?
I have already purchased piston rings, micrometers, plastigauge, main and rod bearings, ring grinding tool, new head bolts and some cheap autozone oil for breakin. After assembly I will only run it for 50 miles or so before I change the oil so buying the good stuff does not seem like a good idea.
Please let me know what you think about this: since I am going to be using my old crank I think I should also be using the old pistons. This is because the rotating assembly of the old engine is matched to the old pistons. Good/bad idea?
Since I have everything appart I will either get my cylinder head serviced by a machine shop. Maybe change the stem seals, guides, retainers, cleaned and get the mating surface trued/cleaned. I do not think this head is warped or messed up in any way but I will have the shop check just in case. The car ran strong without heating issues. Essentially this would be a new engine. I will check to see what is more economical, to have my local machine shop service it or to simply buy a new remanufactured one online.
Do you guys know of a good place to get the remanufactured head from in case my local machine shop is excesively expensive?