skidude

iTrader: (3)

I have a GT2560 on my '02, and I am sort of considering building the motor a little. I don't know anything about building engines, so I probably don't want to do it myself, but I don't really know what I'd need to do.

I'd like to have the option of maxing my 2560 (I think that's somewhere around 300whp, right?), but I don't want to lose any of the off-boost torque. What parts might I need, and how much will it cost by the time I purchase them and have them installed. I can pull the motor out myself, and I can probably even take it apart, but I wouldn't trust myself to put it back together properly.

I'm sure I'll need rods and pistons, but beyond that I have no idea. I'll probably blow up the 5speed too, but I'll wait until I do that before I replace it.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

You want M-Tuned rods, Supertech Pistons, BE Oil Pump Gears. That bottom end then should be good for far above what your 2560 puts out. Then just OEM gaskets and ACL bearings.

Do you have a coolant reroute? If so you will want the 94-2000 head gasket.

The 2560 will most likely max out between 290hp and 310hp depending on what type of dyno you are on.

chriscar

iTrader: (24)

-subscribed-

C

Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

Someone here had their 2560 to 300rwhp on a stock engine...but it was on AT or AF mani/downpipe setup...which makes a noticable difference. After pulling apart my old engine* last year and how long it ran with the stock coolant routing, I doubt the need for a RR on a 01+ engine with the 01+ HG. My #4 looked no different than the others. I'm actually taking my RR off this weekend. Honestly, you'll need at least 750cc injectors and a great tune and you should get a lot out of the stock block with no problems. I'd ditch the EBC and go MBC too. If you have the means to do rods and pistons, fresh seals and good bearings, it won't hurt...but you'll definitely be wanting a larger turbo after that.



*My old engine died an unknown failure...nothing catastrophic and no signs of damage when disassembled.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Rods - $320
Pistons - $400
Oil Pump Gears - $250
Engine Gasket Set - $279
Bearings - $100

Machine Work - $200-$750, depends on where you are getting it done and what all you are getting.

EV14-660/EV14-800 Injectors - $280-$330 Ebay

skidude

iTrader: (3)

Hmm, that's a bit more than I had though, I guess perhaps I'll not open the can of worms that is building a bottom end just yet.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Gears are optional, I would say even very optional on a VVT motor. You can also source gasket kits elsewhere if you want for cheaper.

If you wanted to really skimp you could drop the pistons and just go with rods. With a good tune it should survive fine.

skidude

iTrader: (3)

It's the ring-area of the pistons that is the problem, right? I'd like to keep the same compression, and if I use the same pistons, I wouldn't have to have the cylinders touched, right? It seems like that would save a lot of money, but then it would suck to replace the rods and then have a piston issue shortly after.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I believe if you reuse your old pistons you will just have to hone the cylinder walls and then put on fresh rings.

To me I just cannot justify going and replacing rods and not doing pistons. It just seems like a no brainer. Having forged pistons will also make it so your block is good for more power when you decide you want a bigger turbo.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

You need one of our longblocks, id725s, a walbro or dw300, and a 6speed.

skidude

iTrader: (3)

That sounds expensive, but fun.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

This is a wonderfully stupid idea.

What's the ******* point of building a motor if you're not going to make much more power than a stock motor can make?

budget racer

iTrader: (1)

PAUL using absurdflow

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Because not everyone measure their ***** size in how much HP they make.

Some people like the lowend power that the 2560 puts out. I am betting he just wants to have the peace of mind that his motor wont go boom when he is around 300hp.

MartinezA92

iTrader: (4)

This. "Im not going to be making much more power than the block can take" is a shitty argument for not building a bottom end.

I'm only at 8psi on a 2560 and I want the peace of mind of a built bottom end.

skidude

iTrader: (3)

100% correct. I just don't have the money to do it properly right now, so I'll probably just keep it below 250whp. Better to keep it where it is until I have the money to do it right than do it half-assed and have to do it again later.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Not all of us want a 500whp highway queen. There's nothing wrong with wanting that, but please do us all a favor and stop wasting your time insulting the rest of us because we don't all want to be "like you". Some of us want a 400whp street car. Some of us want a 300whp track car. Both require built motors.

Just because you need to build a motor doesn't mean you need to max it out.

tasty danish

iTrader: (9)

I liked faeflora better when he was all about purple tubing and butt-sex, not this "LESS THAN 700WHP? GAY=JOO" phase he's been going through recently.

jacob300zx

250whp is a lot of fun, try that on your setup now and then go from there. You already have a coolant reroute in a way with the head gasket you have now.

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

Down with a 250-300hp on a built motor. Makes me feel safer when I mash the throttle, not "I hope this isn't the time it grenades". OP is the same mindset as me.