dyno tuned 3071
#81
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Something we've yet to address is health of the engine. We're assuming it's a compotent mill with decent compression and leak down, but has this been confirmed? I believe you wrote earlier that you double checked mechanical timing to be spot on. What about the damper/crank pulley assembly? Is it OEM 1994? That can make a *huge* difference if it's failing.
Health of the engine? I hope it's darn good! It's a new build but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to do a compression check.
#87
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You should do it. Costs $100 and the fueling is 100x more accurate.
#88
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compression
***
Did the compression check, wasn't sure if the engine was supposed to be cold or hot, did it cold. numbers are bizzare:
cyl dry oil
1 172 300+++ (pegged the gage, bizzare)
2 110 150
3 140 152
4 170 190
WTF?????
Did the compression check, wasn't sure if the engine was supposed to be cold or hot, did it cold. numbers are bizzare:
cyl dry oil
1 172 300+++ (pegged the gage, bizzare)
2 110 150
3 140 152
4 170 190
WTF?????
#90
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I'll claim a little newb here, I assume you're supposed to do it with a warm engine? Would make sense with the forged pistons. Do i need to disconnect the coils when doing the test? I've heard stories of them blowing out without a load.
#91
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Well I guess I'm fucked. #2 and #3 look to be very low. I only did the wet test on two and it went from 120 to 230. Too depressed to do the rest. This is a new build too, probably less than 1000 miles on it. Can I assume the rings were not installed correctly?
COLD
cyl dry oil
1 172 300+++ (pegged the gage, bizzare)
2 110 150
3 140 152
4 170 190
WARM
cyl dry oil
1 182
2 130 230
3 160
4 180
COLD
cyl dry oil
1 172 300+++ (pegged the gage, bizzare)
2 110 150
3 140 152
4 170 190
WARM
cyl dry oil
1 182
2 130 230
3 160
4 180
#92
Well I guess I'm fucked. #2 and #3 look to be very low. I only did the wet test on two and it went from 120 to 230. Too depressed to do the rest. This is a new build too, probably less than 1000 miles on it. Can I assume the rings were not installed correctly?
COLD
cyl dry oil
1 172 300+++ (pegged the gage, bizzare)
2 110 150
3 140 152
4 170 190
WARM
cyl dry oil
1 182
2 130 230
3 160
4 180
COLD
cyl dry oil
1 172 300+++ (pegged the gage, bizzare)
2 110 150
3 140 152
4 170 190
WARM
cyl dry oil
1 182
2 130 230
3 160
4 180
You should first check the head gasket (obviously) before tearing down the motor. You might get lucky.
One final note. Correct me it I am wrong, but you should remove all spark plugs, and take a compression reading after about three engine revolutions.
Good luck man.
#95
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I can handle it if it's just a valve issue, good excuse to get a 99 head I suppose. Any thoughts out there?
#98
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It tests the leak down else it gets the hose again.
Seriously, needs to be leak down tested to see where pressure goes. You should be able to hear the air escaping and make a judgment before taking ratchets to the engine.
Seriously, needs to be leak down tested to see where pressure goes. You should be able to hear the air escaping and make a judgment before taking ratchets to the engine.