This is a copy and paste from another forum so ignore that which doesn't apply. But I hope that this helps others looking to make the switch.
Well, in a very compressed time frame, I upgraded my fuel setup to work with E85. Here are some lessons learned for those of you wanting to go down this path. Hopefully this will alleviate some of the issues that I faced.
Bear in mind, this is all on the assumption that you're not doing some sump or surge tank setup and just the drop in.
1-Time! Don't rush it. Not that it can't be done, but you'll end up pulling your hair out. In my case, I don't have a lot of hair left, so you'll resort to finding it elsewhere.
2-Plan ahead. It's those little gotchas that...getcha. Whether it's wiring or plumbing, you'll miss something and either have to start all over again or take several steps backward to do it right. Make sure you get all the fittings you think you'll need a head of time. Don't worry about getting more than you need, as it may not be what you need or not enough. You can always return things later.
In terms of specifics.
3-Teflon everything that isn't an AN fitting. This is on the assumption that you're removing fittings from your initial installation. In my case, that's what I did. Not thinking that the fittings would give a little, I had to remove all of them (just from the rails) to add teflon. They didn't leak, but they did seep.
4-Drop and clean your tank. If you think your tank is clean, it isn't. If you drain it and look at it and it looks clean, it isn't. If you think that the first tank of E85 will clean it for you, it won't.
5-Buy extra pick up socks. In case you ignore #4.
6-If you're still on a stock fuel setup and are looking to upgrade, plan well ahead. If you're looking for a simple dual walbro setup on 93, but think you may go bigger later, beef up the wiring during the first upgrade instead of again later. You'll thank yourself for not having to rip out what will become a somewhat tedious wiring job. I highly recommend 10 gauge minimum for all pump wiring. More on that later.
7-Get hard lines (or rather, fab them), in particular with the Bosch 044 pumps. They're just too big for clean, simple and efficient plumbing there. As you'll see in the other thread, that plumbing job equates to fitting a square peg in a round hole. Or more specifically in this case, shoving a whole watermelon down your throat. Hard lines will make installation and removal super easy and cut free. With my setup, I have to remove the lines from the top of the plate and the pumps and let them fall into the tank. There's no other way to remove it.
8-Build redundancy. In my case, I used two relays. More of a safety thing than anything. If for some reason one dies, I still have one pump working. For as much fuel I'm pushing at the pressures I'm running, I don't need to risk loss of all fuel. One pump will suffice in terms of carrying the load under normal driving. Perhaps even spirited driving.
9-Wear goggles. E85 is alcohol. I don't know how many of you have ever gotten gas in your eyes. As you know, it sucks. This is worse. It won't cause damage if proper first aid is given, but it stings like a sonofabitch.
10-Be sure to have your return sit in the baffle. Otherwise, even sitting there, any level that would be below the top edge of the baffle will cause starvation in about 10 seconds with both pumps going. These things flow a LOT.
11- Be damn careful. Don't go blowing yourselves up.
So my pump wiring setup goes something like this.
-(2) 40A relays from Radio Shack mounted on the assembly plate.
-10 gauge leads from the battery to terminal 30.
-Split the 12v stock power lead with 14 gauge to terminal 86.
-10 gauge from terminal 87 to the pumps (+).
-14 gauge grounds from terminal 85 to the assembly plate.
-10 gauge from the pumps (-) to the battery ground.
-Level sensor grounded to the assembly plate.
-Stock ground wire to the assembly plate.
In terms of the hardware:
-CJ Motorsports 4 injector secondary rail.
-CJ Motorsports Bosch pump assembly.
-(2) 180 deg M12x1.5 to -6 for pump outlets
-(4) 90 deg -6 to hose end for the lines
-(2) Pegasus Auto Racing's high pressure pick up socks. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=5813
-(2) Pegasus Auto Racing's Bosch inlet sock adapter. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=5812
-(1) Canton Racing 8 micron fuel filter. (this thing is a tank) http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/...ion&key=25-915
-(1) Magnafuel -6 to -8 "Y" adapter. http://www.magnafuel.com/products/ac...ings/index.htm
-Aeromotive A1000-6 FPR
-Still using the FJO injector driver. Even though these are High-Z injectors, I opted to keep this in line for ease of installation.
In terms of the plumbing...
-6 lines from the pumps to the "Y" using front and rear plate ports.
-8 to the secondary rail.
-6 line from the split on secondary rail to the front side of the primary rail.
-Return from secondary to right side FPR.
-Return from primary to left side FPR.
-6 return from bottom of FPR to center port.
-Fuel pressure sending unit on second port of secondary rail.
-Base pressure at 80 PSI
-(6) ID1000 injectors (87 PSI @ 14v flow 1200cc)
My old setup used two Walbros at 38ish base. Simens 850 and 1680 injectors @ 20 PSI on 100 octane made 439 RWHP.