Engine building help please
#1
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Engine building help please
I am going to rebuild the engine in my '99.
Since I live halfway around the world, it is a royal pain in the *** to get parts.
Not only shipping is too expensive, customs over here are seriously difficult and time consuming to deal with.
So, I will have everything I need shipped to a friend in the US who will bring them to me when he comes over in a few months.
This means I have to get everything right the first time, and if I get anything wrong, I will have to postpone the whole project for a long time.
Please look over my list and let me know what you think before I order complete my order.
Any input is welcome.
1999 Mazda Miata / 1.8 BP DOHC Engine/ 5 Speed
• Timing Belt with idler and tensioner pulleys
• ARP Head and Main Studs with nuts and washers
• Head gasket, MLS (OEM Mazda)
• Valve Cover Gasket
• F/R oil pan end seals
• Oil pick up gasket
• Intake manifold gasket set, including throttle body gasket and metal plenum gasket
• Injector o-rings (if they are not included in the intake gasket set)
• Exhaust manifold gasket
• Rear main seal, with gasket
• Front Crankshaft seal
• O-ring for oil cooler
• Dip Stick Tube O-ring
• Oil pump with gasket and o-ring (whichever is applicable, or both)
• Boundary Engineering Oil Pump Gears
• PCV (FOR 2004-2005 TURBO MIATA!!) X2
• PCV valve grommet
• NGK Spark Plugs, BKR7E, 2 sets (Total of 8)
• Main bearing set, stock size
• Rod bearing set, stock size
• Thrust bearings
• Thermostat, 180 and 195 degrees, 1 each with gaskets
• Engine block freeze plugs
• Gatorback 4060445 belt, X 2 (Must be gatorback, w/the slits across the grooves) This is for the S/C
• Plastigauge
• Fuel filter, aftermarket
• Spark plug gapper (the round one, not the one with wires..)
• Feeler gauge set (metric)
• Piston installation tool
• Assembly grease
• Gasket sealing spray
• Grey silicone (for the oil pan, etc.. – cartridge type is OK, too)
• O2 sensor socket (3/8 drive)
• I have stem seals, camshaft seals, a water pump (with gasket)
I do not need plug wires, I have a COP setup.
• Pistons, JE brand, 84.00 mm, 9:1 comp, comes with rings
• Intake valves, Supertech brand, Part # MAIVN 1204 (hi-flo) Set of 8
• Exhaust valves, Supertech brand, Part # MAEVN 1204 Set of 8
• Valve spring set, Supertech brand, Part # SPRK-MM18S (Set of 16 valves, with retainers and seats) (single valve set, not duals)
• Forged H-Beam rods, set of 4 (M-Tuned)
Since I live halfway around the world, it is a royal pain in the *** to get parts.
Not only shipping is too expensive, customs over here are seriously difficult and time consuming to deal with.
So, I will have everything I need shipped to a friend in the US who will bring them to me when he comes over in a few months.
This means I have to get everything right the first time, and if I get anything wrong, I will have to postpone the whole project for a long time.
Please look over my list and let me know what you think before I order complete my order.
Any input is welcome.
1999 Mazda Miata / 1.8 BP DOHC Engine/ 5 Speed
• Timing Belt with idler and tensioner pulleys
• ARP Head and Main Studs with nuts and washers
• Head gasket, MLS (OEM Mazda)
• Valve Cover Gasket
• F/R oil pan end seals
• Oil pick up gasket
• Intake manifold gasket set, including throttle body gasket and metal plenum gasket
• Injector o-rings (if they are not included in the intake gasket set)
• Exhaust manifold gasket
• Rear main seal, with gasket
• Front Crankshaft seal
• O-ring for oil cooler
• Dip Stick Tube O-ring
• Oil pump with gasket and o-ring (whichever is applicable, or both)
• Boundary Engineering Oil Pump Gears
• PCV (FOR 2004-2005 TURBO MIATA!!) X2
• PCV valve grommet
• NGK Spark Plugs, BKR7E, 2 sets (Total of 8)
• Main bearing set, stock size
• Rod bearing set, stock size
• Thrust bearings
• Thermostat, 180 and 195 degrees, 1 each with gaskets
• Engine block freeze plugs
• Gatorback 4060445 belt, X 2 (Must be gatorback, w/the slits across the grooves) This is for the S/C
• Plastigauge
• Fuel filter, aftermarket
• Spark plug gapper (the round one, not the one with wires..)
• Feeler gauge set (metric)
• Piston installation tool
• Assembly grease
• Gasket sealing spray
• Grey silicone (for the oil pan, etc.. – cartridge type is OK, too)
• O2 sensor socket (3/8 drive)
• I have stem seals, camshaft seals, a water pump (with gasket)
I do not need plug wires, I have a COP setup.
• Pistons, JE brand, 84.00 mm, 9:1 comp, comes with rings
• Intake valves, Supertech brand, Part # MAIVN 1204 (hi-flo) Set of 8
• Exhaust valves, Supertech brand, Part # MAEVN 1204 Set of 8
• Valve spring set, Supertech brand, Part # SPRK-MM18S (Set of 16 valves, with retainers and seats) (single valve set, not duals)
• Forged H-Beam rods, set of 4 (M-Tuned)
#7
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What bearings are you using though?
Complete BE oil pump is easier than getting the gears, they do all the measuring and setup, you bolt it onto your car.
#13
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As for bearings, I "think" they will be Clevite.
There is a bit of a price difference between the whole pump vs stock pump + gears.
I need to get a price for the pump first. That will tell me if I should get the whole pump, or just the gears from Travis.
I do have the means to measure clearances. Installation should be a breeze, btw.
(I am ordering all the standard issue -read OEM - parts from FATS in Alaska. Those guys give me a jobber price - even though I no longer live there - so I am expecting so save on whatever parts I get from them. The Turkish Lira - $ parity took a nose dive recently. 1 $ used to be about 1.40 TL. Now it's more like 1.85 to 1. Makes a huge difference. So, I need to do whatever I can to stay within a certain budget as approved by Mrs. Godless Commie.)
#14
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INSULATOR,INJECTION
Part No : 8574-13-257
Maybe an extra exhaust gasket. I reused them until recently when I had sealing problems.
I vote for ACL main bearings because they have a nickel core so your oil analysis will tell you when the mains are on the way out.
Part No : 8574-13-257
Maybe an extra exhaust gasket. I reused them until recently when I had sealing problems.
I vote for ACL main bearings because they have a nickel core so your oil analysis will tell you when the mains are on the way out.
#16
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We are currently running a stock head gasket on our 350whp time attack race car with zero issues and know of many other high power cars using stock head gaskets.
#17
Do you sell stock head gaskets? I didn't like your attitude on the phone when i called and I'm not liking it now. I'm sure the stock gasket works up to a point, but that does not mean its better than a race head gasket. It's just added insurance for a big investment. Not even a thought in my opinion.
#18
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No, we don't sell them, but we do use them in our motor builds. The stock gasket has proven to work reliably time and time again, why change a good thing?
You never spoke to me on the phone. You are entitled to your own opinions but fact is that the oem headgasket works great and there is no need to change it.
You never spoke to me on the phone. You are entitled to your own opinions but fact is that the oem headgasket works great and there is no need to change it.
#19
Tour de Franzia
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Do you sell stock head gaskets? I didn't like your attitude on the phone when i called and I'm not liking it now. I'm sure the stock gasket works up to a point, but that does not mean its better than a race head gasket. It's just added insurance for a big investment. Not even a thought in my opinion.
- You're a dumbfuck
- You the worst kind of customer, hopefully he ran you off for the sake of mental comfort and ethical purity. People like you are a problem from the minute you walk in the door, until the internet crybaby bullshit about how company XYZ offended you because you're too stupid to help yourself.
- ******s like yourself rarely spend any money because you're too busy backdooring people into arguments you know nothing about which is another reason why your reproductive organs will never contact a female sex organ. No, a sheep vagina is nothing like a woman.
- They might have a better idea about the stock headgasket than you considering they and a couple others "race" 400whp cars every weekend...which you will never do because you're ugly and will never bed a woman with a BMI <15%.
- A non-stock headgasket is not "added insurance" because when a headgasket fails it does not cause the engine to explode.
- You're a dumbfuck.
#20
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On the 1.6, I would recommend a Cometic gasket, and we will gladly sell you a Cometic gasket for your 1.8 at twice the price of a factory HG, but there is absolutely no benefit.