A/F Ratios and Air Restrictions
#23
God I'm a noob. Sequential would be only having fuel dump in when needed right? not 1/4 and 2/3 or whatever it is. Also what do you mean better injectors? I didn't think the timing of when they squirted would change the quality of injectors. I just thought it was a matter of does it fit? (mechanically and electrically) and can the computer run it?
#27
That's what got me. I get that there are better injectors, and you say you like the EV-14, but what i don't get is how it's better. I just don't understand, and I appreciate everyone input and patience with me. So I guess what i need to know is which would be the best injector for me. As I said before I have a 90 with megasurt pnp and BEGi shanghai turbo, inter-cooled and 10 PSI. And I just thought of this but would I need some sort of fuel pressure regulator and or new fuel pump?
#28
No you only need the injectors.
They atomise the fuel better, for more power, efficiency, stable air fuel ratios and better idle, and they respond faster, so they can be open and closed fully very fast.
older injectors trying to open and close very very fast a low fuel usage (idle) couldnt get right open and then closed in such a short period of time, so they didnt spray properly during idle and low street cruising rpm, making them harder to tune.
Dann
They atomise the fuel better, for more power, efficiency, stable air fuel ratios and better idle, and they respond faster, so they can be open and closed fully very fast.
older injectors trying to open and close very very fast a low fuel usage (idle) couldnt get right open and then closed in such a short period of time, so they didnt spray properly during idle and low street cruising rpm, making them harder to tune.
Dann
#29
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The reason the EV14 Injector Dynamics units are so much better is because they remain linear down to less than 1.0ms pulsewidths. Injectors are not perfectly linear, so the quantity of fuel delivered with an 0.3ms pulsewidth is not 10% of the quantity delivered with a 3ms pulsewidth. The EV14 injectors that ID uses, however, remain linear down to much lower pulsewidths than other injectors, which means that despite their size, they will actually deliver small quantities of fuel more accurately than a smaller EV1 or EV6 injector.
Low-pulsewidth linearity is why an EV14-style ID1000 will typically idle and drive better than an EV1-style 550cc injector. The fact that the IDs are also E85 compatible and rated to something like 130psi of rail pressure is just icing on the cake. We won't use anything else in our cars, and ID725s will be standard equipment in our full turbo kits. They are a little pricey, but they truly are the last set of injectors you'll ever buy - the 725s will support over 400whp and the 1000s will flow enough fuel for over 600whp at stock fuel pressure.
ID's matching process is just as important as the low-PW linearity. ID dynamically matches each set to ensure that the flow is the same across the entire pulsewidth range, and not just at 100%DC where most people check. A batch of 100 off-the-shelf EV14 injectors might have a full-flow variance of ~1%, but the 5% PW flow might vary by 11%, which obviously wreaks havoc with your low-speed driveability. ID takes the time to match the injectors so that they flow within 1% EVERYWHERE, which makes it possible to obtain OEM driveability on injectors that are 4x the size of the stock units.
It's easy to talk about these injectors because they are so badass. You can do a quick Google search and read dozens of reviews written by enthusiasts and professional tuners alike raving about them in a wide variety of applications. It's not hard to stick a set of 1000cc injectors in a car - what's hard is making that car drive like the 1000s aren't there.
We have 725s and 1000s in stock. I can ship a set on Monday.
Low-pulsewidth linearity is why an EV14-style ID1000 will typically idle and drive better than an EV1-style 550cc injector. The fact that the IDs are also E85 compatible and rated to something like 130psi of rail pressure is just icing on the cake. We won't use anything else in our cars, and ID725s will be standard equipment in our full turbo kits. They are a little pricey, but they truly are the last set of injectors you'll ever buy - the 725s will support over 400whp and the 1000s will flow enough fuel for over 600whp at stock fuel pressure.
ID's matching process is just as important as the low-PW linearity. ID dynamically matches each set to ensure that the flow is the same across the entire pulsewidth range, and not just at 100%DC where most people check. A batch of 100 off-the-shelf EV14 injectors might have a full-flow variance of ~1%, but the 5% PW flow might vary by 11%, which obviously wreaks havoc with your low-speed driveability. ID takes the time to match the injectors so that they flow within 1% EVERYWHERE, which makes it possible to obtain OEM driveability on injectors that are 4x the size of the stock units.
It's easy to talk about these injectors because they are so badass. You can do a quick Google search and read dozens of reviews written by enthusiasts and professional tuners alike raving about them in a wide variety of applications. It's not hard to stick a set of 1000cc injectors in a car - what's hard is making that car drive like the 1000s aren't there.
We have 725s and 1000s in stock. I can ship a set on Monday.
Last edited by Savington; 07-01-2012 at 04:42 AM.
#30
#31
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Either injector will idle perfectly, so we typically sell the 1000s, but the 725s are there for people who will simply never need that much fuel. If you'd like to order the 725s just call me on Monday.
Trackspeed Engineering
Trackspeed Engineering
#33
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EV14 wil do a slightly better job in batch fuel as I understand it. To realize the full benefits, you should run sequential fuel. Also, read what Savington wrote about "linearality".
#36
Warmup enrichment typically start between 9:1 and 12:1 depending on the startup temp and slowly taper up into closed loop as the coolant comes up to temp, normally you should be able to achieve closed loop about about 150*F coolant temps, might be different depending on when your narrow band actually comes up to temp.
And you can idle at 17:1 for better gas mileage if you're able to reject the heat, the same with cruising at that afr.
And you can idle at 17:1 for better gas mileage if you're able to reject the heat, the same with cruising at that afr.
#37
Warmup enrichment typically start between 9:1 and 12:1 depending on the startup temp and slowly taper up into closed loop as the coolant comes up to temp, normally you should be able to achieve closed loop about about 150*F coolant temps, might be different depending on when your narrow band actually comes up to temp.
And you can idle at 17:1 for better gas mileage if you're able to reject the heat, the same with cruising at that afr.
And you can idle at 17:1 for better gas mileage if you're able to reject the heat, the same with cruising at that afr.
#38
You create more heat in the combo chamber running lean like that. You either reject the heat or you melt things. You can reject the heat through the head, into the coolant, and out the radiator. And you can reject it out the exhaust valves and into the exhaust but that makes the valves and header hotter. You dont want to run it out the exhaust so you increase timing to keep egts down. But if you cant make it pass through the head fast enough and into the coolant fast enough bad things happen. Tuning this is way over your head.
#39
You create more heat in the combo chamber running lean like that. You either reject the heat or you melt things. You can reject the heat through the head, into the coolant, and out the radiator. And you can reject it out the exhaust valves and into the exhaust but that makes the valves and header hotter. You dont want to run it out the exhaust so you increase timing to keep egts down. But if you cant make it pass through the head fast enough and into the coolant fast enough bad things happen. Tuning this is way over your head.
#40
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I know that guy has a good reputation, but I promise you that no matter how good the tuner you will always have a superior tune if you tune the car yourself simply because you can put countless hours into perfection that you can't afford with an hourly rate.