High horsepower build
08-19-2012, 02:23 PM
#23
Just saying. I thought my build was going to run around 7K but it took over 11.5K to get it running. Not saying that your build will cost this much but there's always something that gets overlooked and there are alot of little things that aren't on the list that all add up quick. aka fittings, fuel lines, wiring fixes, raw materials for heat shields/ brackets/ ducting etc.
As far as time goes, life gets in the way. Im not sure of how much free time you have but dont be disappointed if it takes longer than you expect. I remember reading mightymouses' thread for over a year before i started my build thinking "man this guy is sure taking his time." I initially though i would finish my build in 6 month MAX but I just got on the road this last month... 14 months later. (not touching it during the school semester didn't help. Life.)
Good luck. I'm excited to see what you come up with and i'll help out whatever little way i can.
As far as time goes, life gets in the way. Im not sure of how much free time you have but dont be disappointed if it takes longer than you expect. I remember reading mightymouses' thread for over a year before i started my build thinking "man this guy is sure taking his time." I initially though i would finish my build in 6 month MAX but I just got on the road this last month... 14 months later. (not touching it during the school semester didn't help. Life.)
Good luck. I'm excited to see what you come up with and i'll help out whatever little way i can.
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08-19-2012, 02:32 PM
#24
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Just saying. I thought my build was going to run around 7K but it took over 11.5K to get it running. Not saying that your build will cost this much but there's always something that gets overlooked and there are alot of little things that aren't on the list that all add up quick. aka fittings, fuel lines, wiring fixes, raw materials for heat shields/ brackets/ ducting etc.
As far as time goes, life gets in the way. Im not sure of how much free time you have but dont be disappointed if it takes longer than you expect. I remember reading mightymouses' thread for over a year before i started my build thinking "man this guy is sure taking his time." I initially though i would finish my build in 6 month MAX but I just got on the road this last month... 14 months later. (not touching it during the school semester didn't help. Life.)
Good luck. I'm excited to see what you come up with and i'll help out whatever little way i can.
As far as time goes, life gets in the way. Im not sure of how much free time you have but dont be disappointed if it takes longer than you expect. I remember reading mightymouses' thread for over a year before i started my build thinking "man this guy is sure taking his time." I initially though i would finish my build in 6 month MAX but I just got on the road this last month... 14 months later. (not touching it during the school semester didn't help. Life.)
Good luck. I'm excited to see what you come up with and i'll help out whatever little way i can.
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08-19-2012, 02:53 PM
#25
I work full time and am going to school almost full time for engineering so my time plate is pretty full but whatever free time I have is spent on my miata whether its wrenching or reading up on builds/parts and what not. Its a long term project, but I feel confident in having it up and running by this time next year. I totally appreciate your input though, thank you
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08-19-2012, 03:33 PM
#27
+1 on doubling the time expected for a build.
Read this: https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...content-60308/
Read this: https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...content-60308/
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08-19-2012, 04:21 PM
#29
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+1 on doubling the time expected for a build.
Read this: https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...content-60308/
Read this: https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...content-60308/
Ill check that out next. thanks
why do you say that?
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08-19-2012, 04:24 PM
#30
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Post details on your integra and neon. And then i will help you.
Btw do you know how to tune? If not, i dont recommend 300+hp or else u will pay a lot od $$$$ for tunes.
Btw do you know how to tune? If not, i dont recommend 300+hp or else u will pay a lot od $$$$ for tunes.
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08-19-2012, 04:49 PM
#32
I have essentially the setup you outlined and I would pretty much echo what everyone else said.
1. It will take much longer than you think(in my case due to having 2 small children)
2. The Trackspeed long block is an excellent place to start. VVT head will be helpful but might be a bit problematic if you must have 8K redline. Cams from Trackspeed might solve this I don't know.
3. Buy a quality exhaust manifold and downpipe-Absurdflow, ARtech etc. I have absurdflow
4. You might might consider a GTX3071 for a little more headroom if you want to run 400whp comfortably
5. Really no need for a dual feed fuel rail other than they are pretty. A walbro 255 should be enough but consider the Deatschwerks or Aeromotive single pumps for a little more flow
6. For other supporting stuff it would be helpful to know what you are going to use the car for. Track work with extended high rpms? Street with occasional zings to 8K. For track work a better harmonic damper-Supermiata or ATI, Shim under bucket lifters(supertech or Mazdaspeed), inconel exhaust valves, accusump maybe
For more sustained high hp use like track work you also need cooling mods-better radiator-trackspeed unit is the best, oil cooler etc
Will need some EMS
Brakes, suspension will need some work for track work.
My setup is this
Currently Supertech 8.6:1 pistons, forged rods, ACL bearings, ARP head and main studs. mildly ported head with stock cams for now.
Boundary engineering race pump, ATI superdamper
DIY auto individual coils
Hydra 2.7(will probably switch to AEM infinity soon)
Absurdflow manifold and DP with GT3071, 3" exhaust
Modified honda intake manifold and 67mm Blox throttle body
1000cc injectors and FM fuel rail, single walbro 255
Trackspeed radiator, FM oil cooler
Xida Coilovers, v8roadsters control arms, endlinks, sway bars, frame rail braces
Twin plate clutch, OS giken diff
Hardtop, rollbar, door bars, getting a Tillet seat and I am sure I forgot some other stuff. Tires wheels,hubs etc, gauges(my prosports suck)
I am sure this is over 25K lost count long ago
I made 340hp(Mustang dyno) on a mild tune without the race ported head and integral cams which will be installed later.
Time spent-2+ yrs
Time spend driving said build-it would depress me to think about it.
I would say one thing about doing a build like this. Buy the right stuff in stages. Do not cheap out of stuff to get you through till when you can buy the stuff you want. You will waste more time(if you do all the work yourself) or money(if you do not) replacing stuff later.
I would highlight that this type of build is not for DD. Forget it unless you like to walk.
1. It will take much longer than you think(in my case due to having 2 small children)
2. The Trackspeed long block is an excellent place to start. VVT head will be helpful but might be a bit problematic if you must have 8K redline. Cams from Trackspeed might solve this I don't know.
3. Buy a quality exhaust manifold and downpipe-Absurdflow, ARtech etc. I have absurdflow
4. You might might consider a GTX3071 for a little more headroom if you want to run 400whp comfortably
5. Really no need for a dual feed fuel rail other than they are pretty. A walbro 255 should be enough but consider the Deatschwerks or Aeromotive single pumps for a little more flow
6. For other supporting stuff it would be helpful to know what you are going to use the car for. Track work with extended high rpms? Street with occasional zings to 8K. For track work a better harmonic damper-Supermiata or ATI, Shim under bucket lifters(supertech or Mazdaspeed), inconel exhaust valves, accusump maybe
For more sustained high hp use like track work you also need cooling mods-better radiator-trackspeed unit is the best, oil cooler etc
Will need some EMS
Brakes, suspension will need some work for track work.
My setup is this
Currently Supertech 8.6:1 pistons, forged rods, ACL bearings, ARP head and main studs. mildly ported head with stock cams for now.
Boundary engineering race pump, ATI superdamper
DIY auto individual coils
Hydra 2.7(will probably switch to AEM infinity soon)
Absurdflow manifold and DP with GT3071, 3" exhaust
Modified honda intake manifold and 67mm Blox throttle body
1000cc injectors and FM fuel rail, single walbro 255
Trackspeed radiator, FM oil cooler
Xida Coilovers, v8roadsters control arms, endlinks, sway bars, frame rail braces
Twin plate clutch, OS giken diff
Hardtop, rollbar, door bars, getting a Tillet seat and I am sure I forgot some other stuff. Tires wheels,hubs etc, gauges(my prosports suck)
I am sure this is over 25K lost count long ago
I made 340hp(Mustang dyno) on a mild tune without the race ported head and integral cams which will be installed later.
Time spent-2+ yrs
Time spend driving said build-it would depress me to think about it.
I would say one thing about doing a build like this. Buy the right stuff in stages. Do not cheap out of stuff to get you through till when you can buy the stuff you want. You will waste more time(if you do all the work yourself) or money(if you do not) replacing stuff later.
I would highlight that this type of build is not for DD. Forget it unless you like to walk.
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08-19-2012, 05:06 PM
#33
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but details on GSX and on neon ACR SRT-41999 eclipse GSX to be exact
pistons
rods
some head work
hks 272s
dsmlink
gt28
3" exhaust open dump
big *** IC
walbro 255/1000cc injectors
daily driven on 26psi making 485awhp
went through 4 transmissions when i decided it was time to move on
2005 Neon ACR srt
mopar stage 3 upgrade with toys
ported head with crane stage 2 cams
AGP fuel kit with with 1000cc injectors
needswings 3" exhaust with cut out. bitch shot flames like no other
23psi e-85 385whp
as for tuning
luckily i have a buddy thats good with that.
hows the auto tune feature on the hydra work?
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08-19-2012, 05:16 PM
#35
Reason for low compression is to keep det down. if det isn't an issue then why not get the benefits of a high comp motor. talk to sav about it if they are going to build you a motor. If you plan on running pump at all then forget it and go 8.6. There are a few members on here running higher compression on e85 and making awesome power.
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08-19-2012, 05:17 PM
#36
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I have essentially the setup you outlined and I would pretty much echo what everyone else said.
1. It will take much longer than you think(in my case due to having 2 small children)
2. The Trackspeed long block is an excellent place to start. VVT head will be helpful but might be a bit problematic if you must have 8K redline. Cams from Trackspeed might solve this I don't know.
3. Buy a quality exhaust manifold and downpipe-Absurdflow, ARtech etc. I have absurdflow
4. You might might consider a GTX3071 for a little more headroom if you want to run 400whp comfortably
5. Really no need for a dual feed fuel rail other than they are pretty. A walbro 255 should be enough but consider the Deatschwerks or Aeromotive single pumps for a little more flow
6. For other supporting stuff it would be helpful to know what you are going to use the car for. Track work with extended high rpms? Street with occasional zings to 8K. For track work a better harmonic damper-Supermiata or ATI, Shim under bucket lifters(supertech or Mazdaspeed), inconel exhaust valves, accusump maybe
For more sustained high hp use like track work you also need cooling mods-better radiator-trackspeed unit is the best, oil cooler etc
Will need some EMS
Brakes, suspension will need some work for track work.
My setup is this
Currently Supertech 8.6:1 pistons, forged rods, ACL bearings, ARP head and main studs. mildly ported head with stock cams for now.
Boundary engineering race pump, ATI superdamper
DIY auto individual coils
Hydra 2.7(will probably switch to AEM infinity soon)
Absurdflow manifold and DP with GT3071, 3" exhaust
Modified honda intake manifold and 67mm Blox throttle body
1000cc injectors and FM fuel rail, single walbro 255
Trackspeed radiator, FM oil cooler
Xida Coilovers, v8roadsters control arms, endlinks, sway bars, frame rail braces
Twin plate clutch, OS giken diff
Hardtop, rollbar, door bars, getting a Tillet seat and I am sure I forgot some other stuff. Tires wheels,hubs etc, gauges(my prosports suck)
I am sure this is over 25K lost count long ago
I made 340hp(Mustang dyno) on a mild tune without the race ported head and integral cams which will be installed later.
Time spent-2+ yrs
Time spend driving said build-it would depress me to think about it.
I would say one thing about doing a build like this. Buy the right stuff in stages. Do not cheap out of stuff to get you through till when you can buy the stuff you want. You will waste more time(if you do all the work yourself) or money(if you do not) replacing stuff later.
I would highlight that this type of build is not for DD. Forget it unless you like to walk.
1. It will take much longer than you think(in my case due to having 2 small children)
2. The Trackspeed long block is an excellent place to start. VVT head will be helpful but might be a bit problematic if you must have 8K redline. Cams from Trackspeed might solve this I don't know.
3. Buy a quality exhaust manifold and downpipe-Absurdflow, ARtech etc. I have absurdflow
4. You might might consider a GTX3071 for a little more headroom if you want to run 400whp comfortably
5. Really no need for a dual feed fuel rail other than they are pretty. A walbro 255 should be enough but consider the Deatschwerks or Aeromotive single pumps for a little more flow
6. For other supporting stuff it would be helpful to know what you are going to use the car for. Track work with extended high rpms? Street with occasional zings to 8K. For track work a better harmonic damper-Supermiata or ATI, Shim under bucket lifters(supertech or Mazdaspeed), inconel exhaust valves, accusump maybe
For more sustained high hp use like track work you also need cooling mods-better radiator-trackspeed unit is the best, oil cooler etc
Will need some EMS
Brakes, suspension will need some work for track work.
My setup is this
Currently Supertech 8.6:1 pistons, forged rods, ACL bearings, ARP head and main studs. mildly ported head with stock cams for now.
Boundary engineering race pump, ATI superdamper
DIY auto individual coils
Hydra 2.7(will probably switch to AEM infinity soon)
Absurdflow manifold and DP with GT3071, 3" exhaust
Modified honda intake manifold and 67mm Blox throttle body
1000cc injectors and FM fuel rail, single walbro 255
Trackspeed radiator, FM oil cooler
Xida Coilovers, v8roadsters control arms, endlinks, sway bars, frame rail braces
Twin plate clutch, OS giken diff
Hardtop, rollbar, door bars, getting a Tillet seat and I am sure I forgot some other stuff. Tires wheels,hubs etc, gauges(my prosports suck)
I am sure this is over 25K lost count long ago
I made 340hp(Mustang dyno) on a mild tune without the race ported head and integral cams which will be installed later.
Time spent-2+ yrs
Time spend driving said build-it would depress me to think about it.
I would say one thing about doing a build like this. Buy the right stuff in stages. Do not cheap out of stuff to get you through till when you can buy the stuff you want. You will waste more time(if you do all the work yourself) or money(if you do not) replacing stuff later.
I would highlight that this type of build is not for DD. Forget it unless you like to walk.
I am still researching pros and cons on a VVT head. I was planning on using a 99-00 head with some port/polish work and supertech valvetrain
curious on how the modded honda IM worked?
difficult to mod?
I am considering the IM Begi. offers with the 70mm throttle body
I DD a 2000 Audi A6, great for WI winters and soon to add my moms 1999 nissan maxima to my DD fleet. The miata is def. not my DD just a fun project to waste time and money on...women come with too much drama
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08-19-2012, 05:35 PM
#37
There is no doubt the VVT head is better for area under the curve for HP. It is just limited currently by the 7500rpm harmonic that damages the valve train. Cams are limited to regrinds at this time or expensive Maruha units. A different cam and lightened valve train components might solve the harmonic issue but who knows. Savington would have the best idea as I know Trackspeed is working on reground VVT cams. Might not even be an issue if you just want high rpms for bragging rights as the motor doesn't make huge power like a honda at elevated RPMs.
The honda intake manifold has port spacing very close to the BP head and so all that is needed is to cut the flange off the honda and a stock bp manifold and then weld them together. I think mine was about $350 for all the work. The blox manifolds are cheap and relatively easy to find. The edelbrock performer manifold might be even better but the throttle body mounting is at an odd angle. I think the begi manifold has shown power gains but it wasn't available when I did mine. One of the other members here is building sheet metal manifolds as well.
I was just thinking about my post and to be honest building cars can become a never ending quest to obtain cool parts rather than actually driving the car which is ok if that is what you want.
You could have a reliable 250whp miata for a lot less and drive the crap out of it.
Honestly I have vague fears of building this car and then stuffing it into a wall.
but that's the way it goes.
The honda intake manifold has port spacing very close to the BP head and so all that is needed is to cut the flange off the honda and a stock bp manifold and then weld them together. I think mine was about $350 for all the work. The blox manifolds are cheap and relatively easy to find. The edelbrock performer manifold might be even better but the throttle body mounting is at an odd angle. I think the begi manifold has shown power gains but it wasn't available when I did mine. One of the other members here is building sheet metal manifolds as well.
I was just thinking about my post and to be honest building cars can become a never ending quest to obtain cool parts rather than actually driving the car which is ok if that is what you want.
You could have a reliable 250whp miata for a lot less and drive the crap out of it.
Honestly I have vague fears of building this car and then stuffing it into a wall.
but that's the way it goes.
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08-19-2012, 05:37 PM
#38
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You've come to the right place, then. We are often accused of being averse to women.
I'd stay away from the Hydra. Megasquirt 3x custom built by Braineak or AEM would both work well. The MS has a great autotune feature in TunerStudio VE Analyze Live.
I'd stay away from the Hydra. Megasquirt 3x custom built by Braineak or AEM would both work well. The MS has a great autotune feature in TunerStudio VE Analyze Live.
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08-19-2012, 05:57 PM
#40
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GSX
GSR
Neoooonnnn
Reason for low compression is to keep det down. if det isn't an issue then why not get the benefits of a high comp motor. talk to sav about it if they are going to build you a motor. If you plan on running pump at all then forget it and go 8.6. There are a few members on here running higher compression on e85 and making awesome power.
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