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Old 10-18-2010, 01:20 PM   #401
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Blox Honda ITR/GSR Intake manifold + cut 1.6 intake

Buy mine! Ship to Gotpsi?.... ~300 bucks gets you SWEET manifold
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Old 10-18-2010, 01:39 PM   #402
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I've read the thread and can see a few people who have done this. What TBs are people using? How easy is it to hook up throttle cable and vac lines?
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Old 10-19-2010, 09:31 PM   #403
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I'm new to this site and new to miatas but I was a hardcore die hard Honda head.. I can tell you that in allmotor setups the edelbrock victor x manifold is best for b series as far as cast manifolds go, custom sheet metal are best in my eyes and from experience but to each his own... Iv left my Honda dreams behind because I'm tired of all my work being for nothing when it gets.... stolen I had my 92 all motor civic hatch stolen on 8/16/10... (sleeved 84.5mm X 89mm 12-2-1 compresion b20vtec 236whp 189wtq on 93 octane and I used a victor x manifold)
I'm realy liking miatas just trying to learn and be as successful with my miata as I was with my civic..

So my question is what's a max whp on a allmotor miata?
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Old 10-19-2010, 09:40 PM   #404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iloveboobies View Post
So my question is what's a max whp on a allmotor miata?
Who gives a ****? N/A is for ****.

Also, if you think youre gonna make a bunch on all motor power with a Miata be prepared to be disappointed.


P.S. I also love boobies
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Old 10-19-2010, 09:43 PM   #405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iloveboobies View Post

So my question is what's a max whp on a allmotor miata?
180whp give or take 5% in either direction. Be prepared to spend ~10-12k to get there.

We have factory oil squirters, 9:1 compression, iron blocks, and a damn oil feed port pre-tapped on the side of the block. There's a good reason why a lot of people turbo these cars.
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Old 10-20-2010, 09:19 AM   #406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie View Post
Who gives a ****? N/A is for ****.

Also, if you think youre gonna make a bunch on all motor power with a Miata be prepared to be disappointed.


P.S. I also love boobies
Lol thanks for the brute honesty and i guess I'm ganna be doing alot of research to try and come up with a turbo build plan..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
180whp give or take 5% in either direction. Be prepared to spend ~10-12k to get there.

We have factory oil squirters, 9:1 compression, iron blocks, and a damn oil feed port pre-tapped on the side of the block. There's a good reason why a lot of people turbo these cars.
Well that's a shut load of info that's realy good to know!! Thanks bro! And I'm ganna be looking into a good piston/rod setup and I'm trying to find out what's the best rear end setup to go with? On to the search button!!
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Old 10-20-2010, 01:53 PM   #407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie View Post
Who gives a ****? N/A is for ****.

Also, if you think youre gonna make a bunch on all motor power with a Miata be prepared to be disappointed.


P.S. I also love boobies
But note that if you get spendie on NA you'll be able to rev the motor higher than most turbo rigs. Hence you stay in a given gear longer. Fuji did nearly 9K before his stock bottom end (except for pistons) broke after two seasons of development.

Cheap turbos like a recycled "greedy" from CL can make a 1.6 run about like a 1.8. Locally a guy added one and in 70F weather can run 0.3s quicker in a 1/4 mile than my NA car did in 100F / Humid. Which is to say about a draw. With his lag from a traffic light he is doomed in street fun. I'm hoping he'll come out to the next autocross, but have warned him that the mod bumps him way up to a mod class where cars can be considerably wilder.
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Old 10-22-2010, 05:16 PM   #408
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If you guys are looking for a low cost manifold, there was a guy one of the the turbo dodge forums making sheetmetal intakes for cheap (like 300 dollars).

I'd bet if you found him flanges, did some research to give him dimensions for runner length plenum volume and the rest of the dimensions he'd probably build one for you. I klnow there are alof of guys on here that are proficient with CAD.

I havent done anything with turbo dodges but Ill do some looking around and see if I cant come up with some contact info.
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Old 11-02-2010, 12:54 AM   #409
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Thought you guys should know, it didn't work out so bad. I'm going to weld those bungs shut later and smooth it out in there. A very small bit of work with the grinder and the OE fuel rail works. Also, fuel lines re-routing in the future, and the vapor canister needs to go.



Just seein if it fits with everything. Which it does.



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Old 11-12-2010, 12:34 PM   #410
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i am a little bit complicated can someone mark these intake manifolds for a big turbo 1800 engine ?

1) Skunk2
2) Edelbrock Victor X
3) Edelbrock Performer X
4) Begi
5) Flyin Miata
6) Stock

and any other that i missing.
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Old 11-12-2010, 03:28 PM   #411
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What? I think this merrygo round can stop now. The skunk2 version works well for a number of people in the 300 range.
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Old 11-12-2010, 03:31 PM   #412
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Someone needs to buy mine so I can get it out of the garage.
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Old 11-14-2010, 01:32 AM   #413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by platinum View Post
i am a little bit complicated can someone mark these intake manifolds for a big turbo 1800 engine ?

1) Skunk2
2) Edelbrock Victor X
3) Edelbrock Performer X
4) Begi
5) Flyin Miata
6) Stock

and any other that i missing.
Ya a real mani built to suit. Like the one FRT_FUN is selling, just to let everyone know.
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Old 11-18-2010, 10:12 AM   #414
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So the long and short of this thread is:

Skunk2 with 1.8L flange welded on (CNC flange or hacked off OEM) and some port clean up from the welding should give good gains on NA and FI engine. The cost of this is the manifold (whatever you can get them for on ebay, or used) + $100 to get somebody to weld it up?

Anybody care to estimate what gains this intake would give to the following configurations (assume I/H/E mods and programmable EFI):

- 94-97 1.8L head with intake/exhaust cam
- 99 head with intake/exhaust cam mod

Why aren't more people doing this?

Tim
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Old 11-19-2010, 08:59 PM   #415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timg View Post
So the long and short of this thread is:

Skunk2 with 1.8L flange welded on (CNC flange or hacked off OEM) and some port clean up from the welding should give good gains on NA and FI engine. The cost of this is the manifold (whatever you can get them for on ebay, or used) + $100 to get somebody to weld it up?

Anybody care to estimate what gains this intake would give to the following configurations (assume I/H/E mods and programmable EFI):

- 94-97 1.8L head with intake/exhaust cam
- 99 head with intake/exhaust cam mod

Why aren't more people doing this?

Tim
I don't mean to be spammin my **** all over this forum, but..

-Blox skunk2 copy saw nearly identical peak power and lost lots of midrange(10hp/12ftlb) on my built 9:1 NA engine with 99 head+bolt ons/AEM EMS. There is a dyno plot in this thread
-Alumnium welding is expensive. $75-100 per hr. The shop that did my motor build and modded my mani put nearly 6 hours into it they said.
-Cam mods and/or high compression may be the kicker to take advantage of the flow
-More people arent doing it, i think, because its all theory. Only a few examples on pretty highly modded cars. Not towards the cheap end of the $/hp scale untill the stocker becomes a signifigant bottleneck to flow.
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Old 11-19-2010, 09:17 PM   #416
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Piece by piece...

Quote:
Originally Posted by doward View Post
I don't mean to be spammin my **** all over this forum, but..

-Blox skunk2 copy saw nearly identical peak power and lost lots of midrange(10hp/12ftlb) on my built 9:1 NA engine with 99 head+bolt ons/AEM EMS. There is a dyno plot in this thread
What length runners did you use?

Quote:
Originally Posted by doward View Post
-Alumnium welding is expensive. $75-100 per hr. The shop that did my motor build and modded my mani put nearly 6 hours into it they said.
GotPSI? Will hybrid the two for 150$.

Quote:
Originally Posted by doward View Post
-Cam mods and/or high compression may be the kicker to take advantage of the flow
Cams/headwork is only needed above 7000ish RPM, all the intake builds are showing that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by doward View Post
-More people arent doing it, i think, because its all theory. Only a few examples on pretty highly modded cars. Not towards the cheap end of the $/hp scale untill the stocker becomes a signifigant bottleneck to flow.
Even on a 2560, an intake has been shown to be worth 40whp. NA, Emillio has shown it to be worth 10-15whp.

It's well past just a theory.
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Old 11-19-2010, 10:28 PM   #417
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What length runners did you use?
-filled and redrilled blox manifold, ported to match miataroadster plastic gasket on the outsides of 1&4 runner

GotPSI? Will hybrid the two for 150$.
-sounds like a great deal i missed out on :(

NA, Emillio has shown it to be worth 10-15whp.
-My build showed it to be worth -10 in the midrange and +0 anywhere :(
i linked to my dyno but here it is, dotted line is blox mani and coldside intake, solid is 99 miata mani and monsterflow intake. 94 block built 9:1 CP/eagle/arp/cometic with stock 99 head in preperations for boost




I suppose "your experience may vary" this is just mine. I did it for future boost, but never expected to lose power while n/a

Last edited by doward; 11-19-2010 at 11:09 PM.
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Old 11-19-2010, 10:32 PM   #418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doward View Post
What length runners did you use?
-filled and redrilled blox manifold, ported to match miataroadster plastic gasket on the outsides of 1&4 runner
Length is usually in inches or centimeters. Not in filled and redrilled... what length runners did you use?

And you didn't hybrid it, you used the blox flange?

Quote:
Originally Posted by doward View Post
NA, Emillio has shown it to be worth 10-15whp.
-My build showed it to be worth -10 in the midrange and +0 anywhere :(
i linked to my dyno but here it is, dotted line is blox mani and coldside intake, solid is 99 miata mani and monsterflow intake. 94 block built 9:1 CP/eagle/arp/cometic with stock 99 head in preperations for boost

I suppose "you're experience may vary" this is just mine. I did it for future boost, but never expected to lose power while n/a
This can wait until I hear what length runners you used.

And really, you used a honda flange on a mazda head? Is that really true?

Last edited by Nagase; 11-19-2010 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 11-19-2010, 10:55 PM   #419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nagase View Post
Length is usually in inches or centimeters. Not in filled and redrilled... what length runners did you use?

And you didn't hybrid it, you used the blox flange?



This can wait until I hear what length runners you used.
Just went out and measured.
An off the shelf blox manifold has runners between 7 and 7.5"
Runners 1 and 4 are a little longer than 2 and 3.
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Old 11-19-2010, 11:06 PM   #420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doward View Post
Just went out and measured.
An off the shelf blox manifold has runners between 7 and 7.5"
Runners 1 and 4 are a little longer than 2 and 3.
So it looks like the difference here is that your runners are shorter and you didn't use a Miata flange.

There's no way a Honda flange will have the exact same holes as the Mazda, and that's a very important part.
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