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Old 03-28-2014, 06:50 PM   #821
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Originally Posted by thenuge26 View Post
Gee we've done all this R&D for them for free, you'd think they would just swap out a BP flange for the B18 flange on the manifolds you guys hack together.
Except that the runner lengths arent optimal and it looks like they were trying to get the throttle body location close enough to stock for the stock intake tube to work.
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Old 03-28-2014, 07:24 PM   #822
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Yep. 8" is a big step back from the hack and weld jobs here, IIRC.
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Old 03-28-2014, 07:41 PM   #823
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8" runner length would be a sad thing. However, is it me, or does it look like the photo is only half a manifold. It almost looks there there would be a second piece that makes the plenum up top larger.
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Old 03-28-2014, 08:16 PM   #824
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Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Except that the runner lengths arent optimal and it looks like they were trying to get the throttle body location close enough to stock for the stock intake tube to work.
100% correct. The DIY manifolds posted here would be more optimal.
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Old 03-28-2014, 08:23 PM   #825
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Well, I dropped by their fb page to see if I could find more info on it, and it seems someone brought up the concern about the short looking runners:

"What're the runner lengths on this? Looks like 8", which would be completely useless for the BP engine. Hopefully they extend this by at least another 3-4" before production.

Skunk2 Racing - Erin don't worry, it's only a sneak peek, you can't see what's going on under the plenum from this angle "

We'll just have to wait and see what they've got up their sleeves. Price hasn't been given a ballpark est., but hopefully it's in line with their pro series manifolds.
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Old 03-28-2014, 09:02 PM   #826
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Yep, that was my question. Glad to get a positive reply.
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Old 03-29-2014, 12:21 AM   #827
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Yup, I'm just going to make a manifold myself.
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Old 03-29-2014, 02:01 AM   #828
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After having a shop make mine. I ended up paying around $4-500 for mine. That was after paying around $100 for the manifold. Just took the shop longer than expected to do all the fabrication. They have been working on it for a while so I would assume that slunk2 would have made a good manifold. just have to wait and see
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Old 03-29-2014, 06:06 PM   #829
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I have to admit, when i heard they were working on a BP manifold, i thought it would be something along the lines of a reflanged ultra/street manifold. From their point of view, it needs to fit in the stock engine bay and in a similar to stock TB location.

They need it to be able to sell to people other than the handful of people willing to cut and move stuff to fit a 12" straight runner manifold. Looks to me like they took a stock manifold design and reworked the plenum for more volume and even cylinder flow and removed any crap butterflies and runner obstructions.

If it out performs a square top than its a plus right? Im sure it will be cheaper ($350 range)
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Old 03-31-2014, 04:34 PM   #830
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Their Honda manifolds rarely put the throttle in the stock location. I guess it's closer than ours, but not much. I'm surprised that they're going to any effort to make them fit.
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Old 10-15-2014, 11:20 AM   #831
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Reviving old thread... again..

Just curious has anyone considered the honda b18b1 manifold? It comes on honda's 1.8L non vtec b series in integra LS. That engine has a rev limit of 7400 which is lower than vtec models, and it looks like the intake has longer runners to facilitate that lower rpm range.

I dont have any runner measurements at this exact moment but a good friend I will see this weekend has a 94 integra LS with b18b1 and I can measure his intake manifold runner length. I am 99% sure they are longer than both the b16/b18 vtec stock runners and also aftermarket length. Another advantage is that it curves up a bit which could give more clearance. Just a thought.

Another thing related to the people with issues with manifolds that are cracking after welded. A LOT of it has to do with the person welding it. When you weld alum generally you weld it with as much heat input as possible and move as fast as possible. Alum melts at a much lower temp than steel (1200* vs 2500*-2700*) but it also conducts heat 5 times faster than stee so it requires more heat input at the point of the weld. Also you generally do not want to pre-heat alum unless its just a small amount to remove moisture. If you dilly dally all day trying to make a weld in one spot you heat soak the part so bad that it just turns to **** and your bead's end up being huge because of the heat soak and then the base metal gets super weak. Ideally you spend all your time with prep and cleaning and for proper penetration V the joints out. Then get in, make your weld on 1 runner, then get out and let the part cool, then weld the next.

Another factor is alloy's used. If the alum is heat treatable It could be put in the oven at 400* for an hour after welding and would become much stronger. If it is not heat treatable, there isnt much you can do.
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Old 10-15-2014, 11:37 AM   #832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxcdale View Post
Reviving old thread... again..

Just curious has anyone considered the honda b18b1 manifold? It comes on honda's 1.8L non vtec b series in integra LS. That engine has a rev limit of 7400 which is lower than vtec models, and it looks like the intake has longer runners to facilitate that lower rpm range.

I dont have any runner measurements at this exact moment but a good friend I will see this weekend has a 94 integra LS with b18b1 and I can measure his intake manifold runner length. I am 99% sure they are longer than both the b16/b18 vtec stock runners and also aftermarket length. Another advantage is that it curves up a bit which could give more clearance. Just a thought.

Another thing related to the people with issues with manifolds that are cracking after welded. A LOT of it has to do with the person welding it. When you weld alum generally you weld it with as much heat input as possible and move as fast as possible. Alum melts at a much lower temp than steel (1200* vs 2500*-2700*) but it also conducts heat 5 times faster than stee so it requires more heat input at the point of the weld. Also you generally do not want to pre-heat alum unless its just a small amount to remove moisture. If you dilly dally all day trying to make a weld in one spot you heat soak the part so bad that it just turns to **** and your bead's end up being huge because of the heat soak and then the base metal gets super weak. Ideally you spend all your time with prep and cleaning and for proper penetration V the joints out. Then get in, make your weld on 1 runner, then get out and let the part cool, then weld the next.

Another factor is alloy's used. If the alum is heat treatable It could be put in the oven at 400* for an hour after welding and would become much stronger. If it is not heat treatable, there isnt much you can do.

Yea it's what I use. I'm happy with it for my na setup.
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Old 10-15-2014, 11:39 AM   #833
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Quote:
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Yea it's what I use. I'm happy with it for my na setup.
Would you have any dyno results by chance? Or butt dyno? Right now my car just has a muffler added into stock piping and a crappy super short ram air intake which is basically just an elbow. I got the car 2 days ago so it is still Under Construction.

My first engine/power mod will prob be a diypnp ms2 to get the thing tuned and pick up some ponies then after that trying to figure out if an IM is worth it or not. I could do all the fab myself so it wont cost me anything more than a stock b18b intake.
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Old 10-15-2014, 11:40 AM   #834
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To avoid the welding I have heard of some people just ovaling out the holes and gasket matching the ports and having it work. It would probably be better to take a tracing of the head side (old paper and crayon trick) and use that as the guide for re-porting the honda manifold, but you will probably need to fill in the runners a bit with some weld to get that to work.
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Old 10-15-2014, 11:45 AM   #835
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If I did do the welding work, I would probably just have a 1/2" flange waterjet cut and weld that directly to the chopped honda intake. Me thinks this would be stronger because you have more "meat" to weld to instead of just butt welding two tubes together which is not ideal by any means.
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Old 10-16-2014, 09:50 AM   #836
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I considered the B18B1 manifold on my old car but mostly because I had an extra one lying around.

I say go for it and post dyno results.

Also, you should be able to get one of these for free or basically free. They are NOT highly sought after in the Honda world. I think I sold mine for $40 but that was because all the sensors were good, TB was good, IACV was good, etc etc
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Old 10-16-2014, 09:51 AM   #837
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There's a couple of b18b or b18a (they look the same to me) manifolds on ebay right now for under $50, but no throttle bodies and no sensors or IACV.
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Old 10-16-2014, 12:50 PM   #838
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You dont want to use the B18A manifold, it has much smaller ports.

I think the normal B18B (aka LS) manifold would work pretty well for people who are not reving much beyond stock. Plus the manifold itself should be basically free. Expect to pay a few bucks for a good Honda TB and IACV but the manifold itself is considered worthless.
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Old 10-26-2014, 11:36 PM   #839
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I thought I'd ask this here. Since we are adapting a manifold to fit our cars, why aren't these plenum designs being considered? You have to do the runners/flange anyway, so why not start with a more turbo friendly design?

Godspeed 240sx SR20DET s13 180sx sr20 Big Turbo Intake Manifold Silver Polish | eBay

Intake Manifold for Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution CE9A EVO 1 2 3 4g63 92 95 EVO | eBay

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Old 10-27-2014, 12:37 PM   #840
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Much easier to start with a manifold that shares the BP 91mm bore centers. The B series Honda is 90mm iirc, close enough. Pretty sure those 2.0L mentioned would be much wider, particularly as they are both less undersquare.
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