falcon

iTrader: (13)

So things are a bit odd. When my motor was built, and the valve cover sealed the first time after things were fine for about 5 months. Then it started sweating at the rear eventually turning into a slight drip. So I pulled the cover, bought a new gasket and re installed it with gasket sealer on the corners of the cam seal caps and CAS cap seal. It was OK for a day then it was leaking like crazy this time now from the rear and also the drivers rear half. I pulled it again, new gasket again and re torqued everything in the correct order and it's still leaking. It's getting really annoying because it's dripping on my header and smoking significantly. I don't want to drive it until this is fixed.

I have a new Capri cover on the way and another gasket waiting to go on to see if it was a problem with the old valve cover.

Ideas? Has anyone had a problem like this before?

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Stick your dick in it.

Then

Do not overtighten.

Tighten in star pattern. Tq spec is like 7ft lbs or somrthing pussified.

Start light. If still leaking then tighten a littke.

Then bow down before your new god. Me.

falcon

iTrader: (13)

That's what I've been doing.

Miater

Should be working.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Rtv cornaz????

falcon

iTrader: (13)

what corners? by the cam seal caps? yes.

I will try my new gasket tomorrow and see what happens.

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

if you want over board and maybe not abbsolutly pretty. Take the cover off, clean the sh-t out of it. Use a cu-tip with one end cut of and spread the RTV in the groove, then spread it on the top of the head (which is clean too) where the cover sits on. Bolt it all together and let it dry for a day. You may be able to see the goo after but it should seal. Over Kill--the way too go when all else fails.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

letting the rtv dry is a good idea

also do acompression tewst you may have horrid blowby pressurizing valve cover,

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

I know you just had a rebuild, but . . . .

If you're doing everything right and you've got oil leaks popping up here and there -- you may very well have a pressurized crankcase from blowby. Are your breather hoses clear? If they are, you might want to do a compression test. This may be a symptom of something else.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

-______________-

falcon

iTrader: (13)

What do you mean breather hoses clear? They look like any other breather hose I've seen. I did modify the cover though, drilling and tapping the top with a big NPT brass fitting about triple the size of both stock ones. Could that be the issue? I don't see how it could, really... because it should theoretically have more flow than the stock ports.

I have a leak down tool at work. I guess it's time I check the health of the motor anyways. I am not getting any blowby, and never have in my catch can so it's hard to say.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

wtf type of RTV are you using.

i like ultra black for the 6 spots you need it.

falcon

iTrader: (13)

I'd have to check but it's just some high temp permatex stuff. It's not leaking from those areas though, it's leaking from the side above the header and the rear opposite the CAS.

falcon

iTrader: (13)

I'll take some photos and post up.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

If it's leaking from those spots, and you have the proper torque on the bolts, then the cam cover might be cracked or something.

falcon

iTrader: (13)

I was thinking that. Do they ever warp at all? When I put the new cover on on Monday I'll see if it solves the problem. Here's hoping.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I doubt it. There's a thick rubber gasket and the bolts aren't strong, so there's no reason for it to warp.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

the VC on both my ludes warped...but ive never had issue with the miata.

Freaky Roadster

Could it be something simple like the CAS O-Ring?

falcon

iTrader: (13)

No.