Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

Happened during a very slow drive home - for about 10-15 miles..

Charge light comes on and flashes, battery voltage reads 11.6 to 11.3...

I rev it just a bit, intermittently displays 12.1 to 12.4 volts.
Gets really lean, but runs.

The only precursor I can think of would be that it started and immediately died a couple times in the past two days. And, I had to turn it off once immediately after starting about three days ago, because it was not charging, and engine acted very funny. Cycled the key and everything was normal at the time.

Car had no symptoms before this, since the rebuild. Ran, acted and charged just normal.

I had revved the car all the way to redline for the first time today. Just 500 miles or so on the clock so far.

MSII enhanced, Reverant spec.
I cleaned and made sure all grounds are tight, and even replaced the main engine to chassis ground strap with a silver coated copper braided monster cable which is about 1/2" thick.

I made it home and checked the fuses and the belt. All are OK.
The alternator is way too hot, but no bunt smell.

The gauge hunts between 11,4 to 12,1 Volts when I start the car now.

Any ideas, input is welcome.

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

You don't have another alt to test with?

Mine died over the winter without any warning. I newly serviced alt was a simple fix.

Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, but, no.
I do not have another alternator.

Once the car cooled off a bit, it started charging somewhat. Stiil low, but at least it's not discharging.

I am attaching a quick log of what's happening. Please note that the car runs decidedly lean, as well..

buffon01

iTrader: (9)

I kinda have charging issues, where while at idle my dash dims if I signal or use the brake. Once the engine rpm raises then the things function well. I also suspect my alternator get very hot. Not thread jacking, just subscribing for possible solutions

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

is this an ECU controlled alternator? or does it have an internal regulator?

Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

MSII controls the alternator.
And, the gauge read 14.1 - 14.2 V at idle when I started the car today.

I'll be leaving for a 2k mile road trip on Friday this week. I just can't take my chances with charging.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Change the alternator just to be sure.

Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

Hey Rev, sorry but I just sent you the cliffs of this thread as an email, thinking that you are on vacation, and would not check the forum.

Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

Update:

All seemed fine today when I started the car to check it over.

I left for a 20 mile drive. Voltage gauge steady(ish) at 14.2-14.4. Then it goes to 14.5 for the first time ever.
That was fine by me.

I get off the freeway, and into the city. Driving at moderate speeds on an arterial, I notice the voltage climbing. All the way to 18 volts. I turned every electrical thing on for drain, and drove at the lowest RPM possible before I could find a place to shut it off.

Then, it was just fine again.

On the way home, voltage stayed fairly steady at 14.3, but a) the headlights kept flickering, and, b) my water injection warning light kept blinking code 4 and 5.

I puled over, cycled the key, and all was fine again.
This is getting very annoying.

The alternator comes out first thing tomorrow.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Voltage regulation scheme is not working, thats for sure. Are you certain this is an "nb" style alternator? If it is are you sure the settings in MS are correct and that the MS is reading the correct voltage from the car?

Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

Problem solved..

I took the alternator apart today and found one of the diodes dead. Kaput.
Replaced the regulator and the diode pack, reinstalled it, and it works.

Car charges at 14.4 Volts, with very occasional deviations of 0.1 volts.
Taking it apart saved me a bundle.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Cheerio!

Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

Yep.. Seems like nothing will prevent me from banging on your door, after all...

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

My Alt also have dead diodes, but the parts are on four weeks backorder. Buying a new one will give me a spare one (once I get the spare parts and fix it).

Wonder if the non Mazda regulating circuits (I have a JC design soldered by me, sans charging light) are harder on diodes?
I have two friends that have fried their diodes not long after switching to other ECUs than OEM (different ECUs, and not Hydra).

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

3 years of standalone glory on my car...no problems.

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

Everyone's soldering is not like yours

A 10+ year old alt can of course die. I hope a fresh one will live a little longer (but rechecking the regulating circuit would not hurt I guess, and adding a charging light as well).

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Hakan, did you get to see the slow blinking/fast blinking of the battery light?

Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

I did.
It was just blinking tho.
Did not notice if it changed speed.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Lower than 13V while running = slow blinking
Higher than 13V while running = fast blinking
Between 10V and 13V with the engine off = steady on
Lower than 10V with the engine off = slow blinking

Lloyd_D

I have a Reverant MS2e.

The car has been sat a while and the battery voltage has dropped a bit to like 11.5v.

The car does start though.

Once started the battery light stays on and the dash lights are very bright, alternator output voltage is like 18v !

I don't think MS is controlling the alternator field correctly.

What do other people who use this MS2e alternator field control have their alternator settings set to ?

Mine are the following:

Alternator control settings:
Control Mode: Simple
Target Voltage: 14.4v
Min RPM for alternator control: 400

Is there anything wrong with these settings ?

Lloyd