I has a Dremel(r) hood (was: BEGI scooper w/air dam and speed bumps = FAIL)
#1
I has a Dremel(r) hood (was: BEGI scooper w/air dam and speed bumps = FAIL)
Don't bother mounting one if you need to go over ANY speed bump. My ground clearance went from 13.5cm (almost 5.5") to 8cm (little over 3").
I took one bump at an angle but the next was way out the car's league. After that I saw a 4x4 taking it at 70kmh...
Dremel in hood today.
Scroll down
I took one bump at an angle but the next was way out the car's league. After that I saw a 4x4 taking it at 70kmh...
Dremel in hood today.
Scroll down
Last edited by Laur3ns; 06-13-2009 at 04:39 PM.
#4
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you don't have to do all that. Just build a chamber in front of the heat exchangers, seal it up, build a tray that goes back to the steering-rack and you won't overheat even with stock fans. At 90* I finally had to turn on the fans and the bottom of my ducting blew out.
My friends miata racecar has a RB bumper and we only have 1"x24" sucking up air for the radiator and it cools fine with a vented hood. Increasing the mouth will not raise pressure in front of the heat exchangers...proper ducting will.
My friends miata racecar has a RB bumper and we only have 1"x24" sucking up air for the radiator and it cools fine with a vented hood. Increasing the mouth will not raise pressure in front of the heat exchangers...proper ducting will.
#5
When I picked my car up from BEGI I drove it 2500 miles home. Speed bumps weren't my problem. In Boise ID they don't do speed bumps. They do the reverse. They put dips in the road and call it drainage. No signs anywhere and you can't see them coming at night. Hell you can't see them during the day if you don't know to look for them. Turbo system 2 days old and I hit one of those at 35mph vs the 10 it takes to cross it safely. HARD grounding. Bent some stuff up, thankfully didn't cut any of the lines running around it. Still have mine on though. Thankfully the aluminum is easy to get back into shape.
At 11.5" ride height I've got 4" of clearance with the scooper.
At 11.5" ride height I've got 4" of clearance with the scooper.
#8
you don't have to do all that. Just build a chamber in front of the heat exchangers, seal it up, build a tray that goes back to the steering-rack and you won't overheat even with stock fans. At 90* I finally had to turn on the fans and the bottom of my ducting blew out.
My friends miata racecar has a RB bumper and we only have 1"x24" sucking up air for the radiator and it cools fine with a vented hood. Increasing the mouth will not raise pressure in front of the heat exchangers...proper ducting will.
My friends miata racecar has a RB bumper and we only have 1"x24" sucking up air for the radiator and it cools fine with a vented hood. Increasing the mouth will not raise pressure in front of the heat exchangers...proper ducting will.
#13
Needs more ducting and a wickerbill on the front. You want a low pressure zone above the scoop in addition to the high pressure below it.
And you don't need to use ABS sheet for ducting, although you should be able to order it online or buy it from a glass/ window shop. You could use .5mm-1mm Al sheet, or stainless in a pinch. Also, you can glue Al to the bottom of the hood with the goo that 3m sells to bond Corvette body panels together. We can buy it at auto parts stores here in the states. You might have to go to a body shop supply store or auto paint store over there. It will stick ANYTHING together and you won't have to weld/ rivet anything to the aluminum hood skin, although it's pretty nasty stuff. Don't get it on anything you ever want to use/ wear again.
And you don't need to use ABS sheet for ducting, although you should be able to order it online or buy it from a glass/ window shop. You could use .5mm-1mm Al sheet, or stainless in a pinch. Also, you can glue Al to the bottom of the hood with the goo that 3m sells to bond Corvette body panels together. We can buy it at auto parts stores here in the states. You might have to go to a body shop supply store or auto paint store over there. It will stick ANYTHING together and you won't have to weld/ rivet anything to the aluminum hood skin, although it's pretty nasty stuff. Don't get it on anything you ever want to use/ wear again.
#16
And you don't need to use ABS sheet for ducting, although you should be able to order it online or buy it from a glass/ window shop. You could use .5mm-1mm Al sheet, or stainless in a pinch.
Also, you can glue Al to the bottom of the hood with the goo that 3m sells to bond Corvette body panels together.