zzyx7

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys,

I've been running MSPNP9093 for about a year now, but N/A. I finally got boosted, just a few days ago! I'm stoked! I've started tuning cruise, and am ready to move on to higher MAP areas. The problem is I don't have a mount for my knock sensor yet. I took the FM Link map for 1.6L turbos and backed 3 deg off their boosted region spark table. I'd appreciate if you guys could take a look at it and let me know if it's going to be pretty unlikely to knock. I'm thinking I'll be pretty safe (targetting 12-11.5AFR from 4psig to 12psig, respectively). My motor is stock, intercooled, running 93 octane, oh... and it's about 20F ambient . Looking to get my fuel dialed in closer (it's waay too rich now) in some of the boosted regions, at least until I can get a mount for the knock sensor.

Thanks!

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Check out the ECU forum a few below this one. It even has a MS specific sub-forum. In it, if you look around, you'll find a few timing threads with people's maps posted.

That said, your map is wayyyy retarded. Get the DIYautotune's base map. I believe it's more aggressive than yours, and is considered very safe.

More pics of your setup and info too would be good.

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

If your goal is to be safe with timing in the boosted regions for now until you get the A/F's spot on, you have certainly accomplished that. That is very conservative - looks more like something I'd expect to see if you were not intercooled. Smart to get the A/F's right before turning up the timing though. Going lean when the timing is advanced aggressively is no bueno.
-Ryan

Savington

iTrader: (31)

That is too retarded. Your EGTs will be excessively high, which runs the possibility of melting stuff.

if you would read the noob section, you'd know to fill in your location and signature so i could tell you whether you could safely run the DIY basemaps or not.

Toddcod

iTrader: (8)

The DIYautotune map is way conservative. You wouldn't believe how much more power your car makes after refinning it.
I would write down there spark values, and type them in your spark map. You will be way ahead and have more power.

zzyx7

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the input, guys.

Sav -- I updated my profile info. I'm in Detroit. It's freezing right now, Sunoco has up to 94 octane. I have an EGT sensor, too.


I thought the MSPNP base map was never tuned for boost, just extrapolated maps? I got a bunch of timing info from this thread:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t18648-7/.

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Read that thread and then read it again. You'll find a lot of your answers there. That's the one I used to tune my engine.

Enjoy the boost.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Good. On CA 91, the DIY maps are pretty close to the limit unless your fuel map is dialed. On 94 they are super conservative. You should be running 12 degrees of timing minimum, everywhere.

ooooh you have an EGT sensor? Pretty please, take a datalog of a 4th gear pull from 2000rpm to redline for me. Tell me what your max EGTs are, and then post the datalog so I can see what timing you are actually running at peak boost.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

you can also use he EGT to tune the spark map by looking for temp deltas.

The_Pipefather

iTrader: (5)

although i wouldn't recommend just plugging in somebody's map, here's what I'm using on a 1.6L. Its not what I would call plugin-and-forget, but it is very far from causing any engine damage when the fuel map has already been dialed in:

zzyx7

iTrader: (4)

Sav-- My EGT is not hooked up to MSPNP, and my fuel map is not quite set...I've yet to hit the freeway for pulls to redline. Open DP + residential area + cops = no bueno. Anyways, I think my WG peaks at 7psi. I've attached a datalog. Look at 2319 sec, and that's a peak boost pull, only ~2 sec. IIRC, throttle was 80%. EGT peaks are at 1500F from what I read off my gauge. My EGTs are ~800-900F at idle; ~1200F at steady cruise @ ~2-3k RPM; ~1300-1400F steady cruise at ~3-4k RPM. I'll try to get that data once I get things dialed in and wired up.

On a side note: I welded up two bolts for a mount for the knocksense MS sensor. For some reason, the sensor would always go off, even if I just free-rev up to 4k RPM. I followed the setup guidelines that came with the sensor: turn potentiometer CCW all the way, idle the car, turn CW until light goes out, then turn CW another 15-20 deg. I hit my block with a hammer at idle to check the sensor, and I had to hit it decently hard to get the light to come on. While driving, tho, the light still went off like crazy, even under light cruise (~2-3k RPM, 14.-15 AFR, timing same as map posted at start of thread). I was quite hesitant to get much into boost, which is why the data log is pretty short and weak. A couple things: I used the full length of wire that came with the knocksense. The wire crosses the ignition coils on the shock tower brace (~4-5 inches away). I have 2 capfuls of Stabil in a full tank.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I really want a 4th gear pull, and it has to be to redline (Actually, I want a 14psi top gear pull from 5k to redline, but I don't think you'll give that to me )

Savington

iTrader: (31)

err, nm. Just noticed the scaling. Noobs should notice the scaling too. If you just plug those numbers into a normally-scaled map, you'll blow stuff up fast.

ChuckyZ

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't tune with a very loud exhaust. You can't hear if you car is detonating. Every engine is different so you don't know what timing you can run. First get your afrs right though. Also once you get an exhaust your spoolup time is different and you afrs can be off because of this.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

+motherfucking 1. That's one reason I'm making my car as quiet as possible. If I have knock, I'll have a better chance of hearing it.

zzyx7

iTrader: (4)

Pat -- I see you have a knocksenseMS. Did you have any trouble getting that thing dialed in? Did you just follow the instructions that came with the unit? The light keeps coming on for me, even in conditions where knock would be rather unlikely.