Just blew my motor - question for all
#1
Just blew my motor - question for all
So a buddy of mine were out cruising and I noticed my clutch started to slip. Not caring I kept driving and got on it a little and while cruisimg my motot blew. Sux. :(. I'm sitting here waiting for my friend to come with his truck so wr can tow and looked online for a new motor. Found a 94-97 full motor tranny for $800 and a 99-05 for $1500. My car is a 99 with no VVT and am curious if I can buy the 94-97 motor only and swap in. Will I have any issues?
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
#2
You can use any 94-05 block.
You can't just use any head. You need to use your original head or one from 99-00 car. No the others wont "work".
Sux to hear about your motor. You were on the adaptronic right? Post up your timing map and log of your afr so we can see if we can spot the culprit of your fiasco.
You can't just use any head. You need to use your original head or one from 99-00 car. No the others wont "work".
Sux to hear about your motor. You were on the adaptronic right? Post up your timing map and log of your afr so we can see if we can spot the culprit of your fiasco.
#7
Tour de Franzia
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I "built" the motor for my car because it made sense on the money side. It also gave me "the torque".
#9
Boost Pope
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On the NB engines, the cam sensor is mounted directly to the valve cover, and the notches which it reads are cast directly into the intake cam pulley (99-00) or the cam itself near the back (01-05).
I suppose you might be able to do the swap if you swapped the NB intake pulley, lifters, and valve cover onto the NA head (I have absolutely no idea if this would actually work, and my gut feeling is that it would not) however that seems like a lot of risk and uncertainty just to use a head with vastly inferior airflow characteristics. The ECU would still throw codes for the complete absence of the VICS system, and the EGR system is different as well.
Now, if your old head is ok, then you can swap the entire head onto a '94-'97 block and it will work just fine. (You'll also need to swap over the crank timing wheel and crank sensor- the ones on the '96-'97 engines are not compatible with the NB ECU.) I think the NB's crank sensor will bolt up to the NA's oil pump, though I've never tried it. You'll just have to live with the lower compression of the NAs pistons.
Or you could just buy an NB engine. Hustler is right- $1,500 is a bit much, but this is the least-risk option.
#11
Boost Pope
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#15
Dont forget you can also get the same, and I mean the same freakin same engine block from a Kia Sephia 94-97 (BP/LX), Escort GT, Mazda Protege LX 90-94, and some Mercury Tracers wit BP motor. Make sure you have the big nose crank, or in other words the two piece harmonic banacer. If the crank uses one piece then it is NOT the good one.
Its funny when you re-word it from Miata to Kia and the prices drop almost half or even more. I can grab anytime a BP block (as long as I pull the engine myself) for $50.00 out the door, and I mean oil pan, crank, block, pistons/rods.
I specifically do not have a Miata, but I became a member because of the BP platform that is shared between platforms.
At the end I bought the group buy 84mm 9@1 Super Tech pistons / china forged rods, ARP head studs, all here in Miataturbo and was assembled into a Ford Escort GT engine, with a Miata flywheel.
Its funny when you re-word it from Miata to Kia and the prices drop almost half or even more. I can grab anytime a BP block (as long as I pull the engine myself) for $50.00 out the door, and I mean oil pan, crank, block, pistons/rods.
I specifically do not have a Miata, but I became a member because of the BP platform that is shared between platforms.
At the end I bought the group buy 84mm 9@1 Super Tech pistons / china forged rods, ARP head studs, all here in Miataturbo and was assembled into a Ford Escort GT engine, with a Miata flywheel.
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