K-swap How-to: A by-the-book K24A2 NB2 swap build thread
#41
Great thread. Ill be watching this with interest as my K24/20 is almost done and ready for the transplant.
Im looking at a dry sump option myself and had a question in reference to shaving the rack.
What part of the pan does the power rack touch?
the top of the 'hump' or one of the 'sides' (meaning fwd or rearward)?
if I have a flat pan, would it still hit?
david
Im looking at a dry sump option myself and had a question in reference to shaving the rack.
What part of the pan does the power rack touch?
the top of the 'hump' or one of the 'sides' (meaning fwd or rearward)?
if I have a flat pan, would it still hit?
david
#43
Great thread. Ill be watching this with interest as my K24/20 is almost done and ready for the transplant.
Im looking at a dry sump option myself and had a question in reference to shaving the rack.
What part of the pan does the power rack touch?
the top of the 'hump' or one of the 'sides' (meaning fwd or rearward)?
if I have a flat pan, would it still hit?
david
Im looking at a dry sump option myself and had a question in reference to shaving the rack.
What part of the pan does the power rack touch?
the top of the 'hump' or one of the 'sides' (meaning fwd or rearward)?
if I have a flat pan, would it still hit?
david
I think even with a dry sump pan it would be tight. But the bigger concern would be pump placement. The Dailey dry sump would not work because it would hit the mounts and or steering shaft. There is not much room to the sides of the motor down low. This is why the normally alternator relocations can not be used.
#45
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Great thread. Ill be watching this with interest as my K24/20 is almost done and ready for the transplant.
Im looking at a dry sump option myself and had a question in reference to shaving the rack.
What part of the pan does the power rack touch?
the top of the 'hump' or one of the 'sides' (meaning fwd or rearward)?
if I have a flat pan, would it still hit?
david
Im looking at a dry sump option myself and had a question in reference to shaving the rack.
What part of the pan does the power rack touch?
the top of the 'hump' or one of the 'sides' (meaning fwd or rearward)?
if I have a flat pan, would it still hit?
david
#47
Great thread. Ill be watching this with interest as my K24/20 is almost done and ready for the transplant.
Im looking at a dry sump option myself and had a question in reference to shaving the rack.
What part of the pan does the power rack touch?
the top of the 'hump' or one of the 'sides' (meaning fwd or rearward)?
if I have a flat pan, would it still hit?
david
Im looking at a dry sump option myself and had a question in reference to shaving the rack.
What part of the pan does the power rack touch?
the top of the 'hump' or one of the 'sides' (meaning fwd or rearward)?
if I have a flat pan, would it still hit?
david
In the mean time, our test car is still going strong on three years of track use. We threw an Accusump in the car last year for good measure, although I did an event without it a week ago without issue. It's a nice, affordable insurance policy though, and I'd recommend it for any K series track car, Miata or otherwise.
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#48
My k20 prelude is currently racing without one, and I've yet to have any problems, but I am planning on installing one sooner than later.
#49
Great thread!
Love seeing how far David has come in the year since I got mine going. So much has been made turn-key, and the more street-oriented parts (header & intake) will make this more popular. I especially like the K_Tuner option since it is based on K24 hardware and does not require swapping so much of the K20 stuff over.
Not to derail the build thread, but a couple of things for those considering doing this swap:
1) A manual steering rack is still available from Mazda and the engine fits a bit easier that way. Personally, I like the slower ratio...especially on the street. Not cheap, but if you have a source for parts at dealer cost, its not that bad. If you get it from Mazdaspeed Motorports, you have to pay the core charge.
2) The OE TSX exhaust manifold can be made to work and is not bad (tubular, but short tubes). A little grinding on the flange and it fits right in there. Can save a few bucks that way, and can mate it up to pretty much any Miata exhaust after making a crossover tube similar to what David supplies with his header options. Further, the OE manifold has a heat shield...and these motors make a TON of underhood heat with exposed headers.
3) Bleeding air out of the cooling system is a challenge. David's rear water outlet has a bleeder hole that makes it way easier.
Love seeing how far David has come in the year since I got mine going. So much has been made turn-key, and the more street-oriented parts (header & intake) will make this more popular. I especially like the K_Tuner option since it is based on K24 hardware and does not require swapping so much of the K20 stuff over.
Not to derail the build thread, but a couple of things for those considering doing this swap:
1) A manual steering rack is still available from Mazda and the engine fits a bit easier that way. Personally, I like the slower ratio...especially on the street. Not cheap, but if you have a source for parts at dealer cost, its not that bad. If you get it from Mazdaspeed Motorports, you have to pay the core charge.
2) The OE TSX exhaust manifold can be made to work and is not bad (tubular, but short tubes). A little grinding on the flange and it fits right in there. Can save a few bucks that way, and can mate it up to pretty much any Miata exhaust after making a crossover tube similar to what David supplies with his header options. Further, the OE manifold has a heat shield...and these motors make a TON of underhood heat with exposed headers.
3) Bleeding air out of the cooling system is a challenge. David's rear water outlet has a bleeder hole that makes it way easier.
Last edited by AndyHollis; 05-27-2016 at 10:50 AM.
#50
Great thread!
Love seeing how far David has come in the year since I got mine going. So much has been made turn-key, and the more street-oriented parts (header & intake) will make this more popular. I especially like the K_Tuner option since it is based on K24 hardware and does not require swapping so much of the K20 stuff over.
Love seeing how far David has come in the year since I got mine going. So much has been made turn-key, and the more street-oriented parts (header & intake) will make this more popular. I especially like the K_Tuner option since it is based on K24 hardware and does not require swapping so much of the K20 stuff over.
Thanks Andy! That's the focus for 2016 - to make this swap available to as many enthusiasts as possible.
The best solution here is to jack the front end of the car way up in the air. It makes it MUCH easier to get it burped.
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#51
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Yup. Nothing new for me. Our crossflows are a little tough to get fully burped too. Throw the front end 18" in the air and use a magic funnel and it all comes out pretty easy.
#53
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Got all the suspension back into the car. The control arms get Energy Suspension bushings, SAE863 sleeve bearings, and 1144 steel sleeves. Low NVH, super low stiction. Big thanks to Bob Bundy for helping me out with this setup.
Bauer Extended LBJs for added camber at sensible ride heights.
In situ with Gen2 XIDAs and fresh Trackspeed brake lines. The car will run the OEM Sport brakes for now, but I suspect a Trackspeed 11.75” BBK will find its way in at some point. An RB tubular FSB, stock RSB, and Supermiata endlinks will round out the suspension setup.
With all the coolant hoses built, we bled out the cooling system by lifting the nose into the air and using a magic funnel. It drank another half-gallon of coolant after the thermostat cycled, so everything did its job.
Header starting to color up nicely.
Once it’s on its own four feet again, we will start to put the interior together. New tan carpet from Moss Motors will go with the tan Probax seats that currently live in my ‘02SE, christened “Acamas” (son of Theseus). Acamas will get a set of black Probax leather seats to match the black interior in that car. The Blackbird Fabworx GT3 bar has made several appearances in photos already, and a Robbins canvas softtop will complete the interior transformation.
Bauer Extended LBJs for added camber at sensible ride heights.
In situ with Gen2 XIDAs and fresh Trackspeed brake lines. The car will run the OEM Sport brakes for now, but I suspect a Trackspeed 11.75” BBK will find its way in at some point. An RB tubular FSB, stock RSB, and Supermiata endlinks will round out the suspension setup.
With all the coolant hoses built, we bled out the cooling system by lifting the nose into the air and using a magic funnel. It drank another half-gallon of coolant after the thermostat cycled, so everything did its job.
Header starting to color up nicely.
Once it’s on its own four feet again, we will start to put the interior together. New tan carpet from Moss Motors will go with the tan Probax seats that currently live in my ‘02SE, christened “Acamas” (son of Theseus). Acamas will get a set of black Probax leather seats to match the black interior in that car. The Blackbird Fabworx GT3 bar has made several appearances in photos already, and a Robbins canvas softtop will complete the interior transformation.
#55
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They are billed as "maintenance-free" but I'm not buying any bridges in Brooklyn this week. My expectation is for them to be fairly low-maintenance, though. If stiction increases over time, we'll evaluate whether or not to add some form of additional lubricant (the sleeve bearings are oil-impregnated already) or just plan to replace the sleeve bearings at regular (multi-year) intervals.
I will snap some next time I'm with the car.
Pics of coolant hoses?
#57
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I'm running a SADFab bronze bearing retrofit in 4 locations (delrin in the rest) I grease them just to keep junk out. In Oregon I get dirt and water and grime everywhere in the car, and the grease makes sure it stays out.
Similar to greasing delrin bushings, it isn't needed, but it helps with longevity.
The big bushing megathread has a lot of info covering all of it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...cussion-87573/
Similar to greasing delrin bushings, it isn't needed, but it helps with longevity.
The big bushing megathread has a lot of info covering all of it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...cussion-87573/
#60
Yes they look great and just unscrewing the line is nice. But when you buy $250 worth of fuel line and you have 5 leaks, it gets old fast. Now i run the aluminum seals on all my AN flares for good measure. And i don't buy the cheap summit brand fittings. I have even had issues with earls. My new favorite is fragola.