Not only does it cost more, it can be very problematic. I have used AN hose on my old race miata and on my Kmiata. And on both cars i fought with defects in the hose ends and warped flares from welding. I have had more leaks then i think i ever would have had with rubber.
Yes they look great and just unscrewing the line is nice. But when you buy $250 worth of fuel line and you have 5 leaks, it gets old fast. Now i run the aluminum seals on all my AN flares for good measure. And i don't buy the cheap summit brand fittings. I have even had issues with earls. My new favorite is fragola.
I've never had a problem with AN fittings, not a fan of Summit brand and I only use Earls if I have to otherwise everything is XRP. I guess it depends who and how they get put together. As far as price, I personally feel like if you're doing a swap like this $200-$300 isn't going to break the bank. A set of pre-made hoses would be nice for someone doing a budget build.
I have XRP fittings to my Speed Factory tucked rad.
i have never had any issue from my assembly, i have had all manufacturing defects where the form the flare, or the o-ring on the swivel end. also when companies weld the AN bungs to the Rad, i have had those warped and not seal.
Nice looking swap, i was looking at a tucked radiator but i thought it wouldn't be up to the task so i went with the griffin.
That was the original plan, have a Griffin made with the inlet and outlet both on the driver side but I got a deal on this rad and a local I know tracks his car many times a year with zero issues so I figured it would hold up.
I understand keeping price down is key as far as production, if I remember correctly Kmiata was going to make pre made hoses. Besides the look not being that great I would be worried about all those joints between hose and pipe leaking at some point.
Quick video of the car. Lots of details to get sorted, but the fundamentals are there. Driver's door is off to run fresh speaker wire through the OEM door harness. Once the exhaust is built and the intake is finished, the motor swap itself will be done, and all the iron-copper-poly suspension bushings are in place. Just the audio system, carpets/dash, Elise Probax seats, and finishing details to go now.
We will build our own. 3" ceramic cat, 304SS 16ga tube/bends, Magnaflow 12579. Hopefully it's quiet enough.
Im not sure how your muffler compares, but i alway use bola XR-1 race mufflers. I did a 3" stainless, no cat with a 15" resonator and the xr-1 and i found the sound to be great.
One worry that i had with this swap was sounding like the typical raspy tinned out honda. And with the XR-1 thats not the case at all. Everyone has there idea of what a street car exhaust should sound like.
With the oil pump upgrade and the KTuner, looks like you're all set to rev that K24 to the 8000-8500 range. I'm working on a similar build, and am finding conflicting information about valve springs. It seems that the OEM K24 valve springs can't handle the valve velocity at those high RPMs. Folks are replacing them either with other OEM springs (K20, S2K) or with aftermarket Supertech or Ferrea. Is this something you considered doing when your valve cover was off? Or do you think it's not needed? Thanks.
I believe the K24A2 valve springs are very nearly the same as the F22 from the AP2, so I don't know why someone would do that. (S2K guys will put AP2 valve springs and retainers in their AP1 to help prevent valve retainer cracking from mis shifts). When I had this engine in my S2000, I had no issue revving to 8k with the exact same valve train setup, but the power levels off at around 6700 anyway without bigger cams.
The plan for the foreseeable future for this car is to rev to 8k, with springs/retainers to accomodate larger cams down the road. Much more than that, and you are putting a LOT of stress on the rods as the mean piston speed for this engine at 8k rpm is higher than the F22 at 8k and the F20 at 9k, which is definitely saying something.