mazpr

iTrader: (1)

Well, left block with the forged h-tuned rods and supertech pistons today at the machine shop.

It will take them 2 to 3 weeks to give it back to me assembled and ready to go.

The whole deal: $700.00, overbore, honing, engine block bath cleaning, balancing, assembly.

I might as well start a thread to show progress/results of the engine block build.

Many stated I could assemble it back myself and save a few bucks, but I have never done this before so might as well let the machine shop take care of it. I dont know if it was BS or not but said it is time consuming to put it back as the have to measure and re-measure to have everything safely installed.

Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

Which shop?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

that's not a horrible price for all the work.

Tremiata

iTrader: (1)

Yeah not a bad price...mine is at shop as well just getting started rebuild. I will keep an eye on this thread.

mazpr

iTrader: (1)

Dover Cylinder Head

http://dovercylinderhead-jax.com


I was going to take it to Automotive Welders, but the technician's approach was not the best. Dont know, just had a bad vybe and decided with dover instead...

Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

good job, dover is good

H&M = not good
tachyon = not good

johnmatt

iTrader: (8)

They did all my machine work on my head for my 1mm OS valves. Quick turnaround and good work done by them

Cococarbine3

iTrader: (1)

That's pretty good. My work cost $200 w/out assembly for reference, but I have no idea what the clearances are and reused the pistons.

mazpr

iTrader: (1)

Well, I got the block completely assembled, out the door $711.00 taxes and everything.


One question I have, Is it normal that crankshaft has some play when I push it back and forth?

I am pushing/pulling on the longer side of the block. I flipped the block upside down, no cylinder head mounted etc, only the engine block/rods/pistons/crankshaft... so I proceed to move it around and I could "feel" some slight play, it can even be heard. Is that normal?

longuyen88

iTrader: (7)

I would say that's NOT normal, give it back to them.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

there has to be SOME play or it would be a solid peice of metal.

is it within the manufacturers specs?

mazpr

iTrader: (1)

What makes it worst is they took the block for assembly to another shop.

It seems they mainly work cylinder heads and block/piston assembly is done by another shop called Extreme Racing. The technician at Dover, at least the one available when I arrived, did not know where the other shop is located at and refused to give me the phone number.

I am a little pissed off, but so far I am controlling myself as to not look like a jack-***. The technician told me that I should put the flywheel, transmission, mount and leave the oil pan for last. Once the engine insidethe engine bay and everything in place it still has play then bring it back...!

Tomorrow will pass by, talk to the owner and somehow I got to have the address of the other shop. Nothing worst than when a shop does shyt like that, then even themselves are clueless as to what the hell has been done to it.

johnmatt

iTrader: (8)

That sucks man. I've never heard of that other shop and couldn't find any info on it through google either. They did good on my cylinder head but my block had already been machined and I did the assembly so I don't have any other info for you. Good luck on getting everything worked out

lordrigamus

iTrader: (14)

How much play?

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Endplay should be ~.006". ~.010-.012" or more and it will self-destruct eventually (see 99 thrust bearing failures). If you can feel play with your hands, they fucked something up.

gospeed81

iTrader: (51)

WAit..wut?


Listen to Sav on this one.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

page 37/47 of the engine workshop manual:

"standard end play 0.080-0.282mm (0.0032-0.0111")"
"maximum end play 0.30mm (0.012")"

The reading I did last year on the 99 thrust bearing issue (since I bought a '99 block that was within the VIN range) indicated that most factory motors seem to come in around .006, with the thrust bearing motors being on the high end of the range (.010+).

gospeed81

iTrader: (51)

I find that most people can detect play by hand of around .020-.030"...putting this engine way out.

But it's all just "feelings" until you MEASURE.

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

I would never take anything to a shop called "Extreme Racing". My theory is, if you pick a gay name to call your so called "speed shop", then you most likely do shitty work and will go out of business. There was a custom chopper shop near me called "Hellbound Choppers". They had this gay little sticker with a skeleton riding a harley, and it had flames all over....how gay. Needless to say, they're not in business anymore.
There was also this fartcan dealer up the street from "Hellbound Choppers" and it was called "East Coast Customs". They specialized in fart cans and air intakes for honda civics, and I think they gave the krylon touch to interior plastic pieces also...but they're out of business too, cause they were gay.
Rule of thumb...if you walk into a place called something like "Super Street Customs" and you hear Nickleback blastin on the stereo in the garage, turn around and take your money else where, cause you're about to make a huge mistake.

gospeed81

iTrader: (51)

^^LOL

Yeah, generally any place with someone's NAME on it is worth leaving engine parts with.

Tom's in Conroe is my place. Great prices, great work, great turnaround. If you weren't recommended a place by being given the owner's name...don't go there.

Also, any shop that outsources work isn't worth trusting, unless they're a general garage. Any "machine shop" that doesn't do their own machining is just giving you mystery work...at a premium. Very few repair shops do their own work however...and most have a consistent, trustworthy machine shop they send their heads/motors to.