My Reroute drawing
02-26-2009, 10:58 AM
#83
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Will a sensor even fit between the firewall and port on the 1.6 cap?
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02-26-2009, 11:25 AM
#84
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I might do this myself. I have an old style tstat housing that will allow me to do it. My only concern is that with the BEGI S4 manifold is that there is not much space to work with to keep it away from the exhaust runners.
I have removed the coil pack since I am converting to COPs. So if I use the '99 tstat housing from the front of the block, then I could go straight up, then have an immediate 90 deg bend to route it the cold side. I think there is enough clearance with the firewall for this to work. Another search through the auto parts store hose collection could yield one that works well.
I have already drilled and tapped the head for the heater core connection a-la the spacerless coolant reroute.
I have removed the coil pack since I am converting to COPs. So if I use the '99 tstat housing from the front of the block, then I could go straight up, then have an immediate 90 deg bend to route it the cold side. I think there is enough clearance with the firewall for this to work. Another search through the auto parts store hose collection could yield one that works well.
I have already drilled and tapped the head for the heater core connection a-la the spacerless coolant reroute.
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02-26-2009, 11:41 AM
#86
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just get begi to make a pipe like the "bigger" pink one:
then have them make another (with a heater hose return) and mail it to me. I want a metal pipe, to go there, really bad. The closer to the sensor the better...they just need a little hump and I'll pay top dollar. I'm worried about all the ghetto rubber back there, and want to put in a swirl-pot, like a man.
**** it, I'm driving to BEGi tomorrow. I want to get that made before I return to dallas.
then have them make another (with a heater hose return) and mail it to me. I want a metal pipe, to go there, really bad. The closer to the sensor the better...they just need a little hump and I'll pay top dollar. I'm worried about all the ghetto rubber back there, and want to put in a swirl-pot, like a man.
**** it, I'm driving to BEGi tomorrow. I want to get that made before I return to dallas.
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02-26-2009, 11:42 AM
#87
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02-26-2009, 12:59 PM
#91
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I would leave the factory oil "cooler" alone, and add an external one if necessary. It plays an important role in bringing the oil up to operating temp during warmup. Now that I have real gauges in my car, I've noticed that the coolant temps rise *much* faster than the oil temps. Starting from 40 F, when the coolant is at 160 the oil's only at 90. When the coolant stabilizes at 190 the oil's still only at 115 or so. During warmup, the factory "oil cooler" is in fact putting heat into the oil; even with that, it takes the oil 2-3 times longer to reach 190.
The variable redline in the tach of BMW's M series starts at 4k rpm. The lights are based on oil temp. This is why I stay below 4k until the oil is up to temp, at least 160F.
So, in any reroute I'd leave it in place, it helps warmup times. Add an external oil cooler if the oil needs more help.
Edit: Brain's excellent drawing in Post #60 is what I plan to do when the need comes.
The variable redline in the tach of BMW's M series starts at 4k rpm. The lights are based on oil temp. This is why I stay below 4k until the oil is up to temp, at least 160F.
So, in any reroute I'd leave it in place, it helps warmup times. Add an external oil cooler if the oil needs more help.
Edit: Brain's excellent drawing in Post #60 is what I plan to do when the need comes.
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02-26-2009, 01:47 PM
#93
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I figured on either lathing one out of aluminum stock, or just getting a brass double-nipple hose joiner, filling it partially with solder, and then drilling a hole through the solder plug.
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02-26-2009, 02:03 PM
#94
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How about a spacer like the one talked about in this thread? It ould have a port for the heater and the temp sensor plus a grove for the thermostat. We would cap it with the standard thermostat housing from the front of the motor. then we would just need a tee added to the pipe going ot the radiator for the heater to return too?
How must would something like that cost?
Also guys why not add a vavle to cut off the heater return when we are on the track?
How must would something like that cost?
Also guys why not add a vavle to cut off the heater return when we are on the track?
What I am confused on is the extra ports.... This is a spacer and you replace the stock piece. Doesn't that have the temp sensor bung already? And the port for the heater?
It is easy enough to route the heater core out to the upper radiator hose. We have a splice already, just move it from the upper radiator hose to the end of the straight hose on the race re-route.
Basically, tell me what you want and we will build it.
Stephanie
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02-26-2009, 02:11 PM
#95
I don't have that sensor there. That port is plugged with a bolt and crush washer. Came that way off of the stock '00 I pulled the head from. The CLT sensor I do have from my '95 I was just planning on putting in the spacer. Of course in that picture, there is no spacer...
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02-26-2009, 02:15 PM
#96
Ok, let me see if I have this straight. Ya'll want the pictured piece w/ a groove for the thermostat?
What I am confused on is the extra ports.... This is a spacer and you replace the stock piece. Doesn't that have the temp sensor bung already? And the port for the heater?
It is easy enough to route the heater core out to the upper radiator hose. We have a splice already, just move it from the upper radiator hose to the end of the straight hose on the race re-route.
Basically, tell me what you want and we will build it.
Stephanie
What I am confused on is the extra ports.... This is a spacer and you replace the stock piece. Doesn't that have the temp sensor bung already? And the port for the heater?
It is easy enough to route the heater core out to the upper radiator hose. We have a splice already, just move it from the upper radiator hose to the end of the straight hose on the race re-route.
Basically, tell me what you want and we will build it.
Stephanie
The temp sensor won't fit between the stock piece and the firewall. The port for the heater is to feed the heater core pre-thermostat (and retains returning it to the mixing manifold at the water pump).
This is what most everyone is looking for (and what I was emailing you about
) It's also not mine. On second thought, the customer would have to tell you which way the upper radiator hose is being routed (hotside or coldside) as that will affect the position of the heater hose port.:
The bung has to be thick enough to allow the temp sensor to get a reading but not interfere with the thermostat.
Last edited by RotorNutFD3S; 02-26-2009 at 02:52 PM.
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02-26-2009, 02:32 PM
#97
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Stephanie,
Here's what we want:
CLT sensor on the engine side of the t-stat (sensors in the front of the head suck because that's the coldest part)
heater port on the engine side of the t-stat
things you should do to make one unit, to use for all cars...even swap cars:
a provision to put the CLT sensor port in 99-heads (above the red circle)
you should also make sure the hump clears the coil pack
you should make a metal hose shaped like this, possibly with the heater return and bung for the 1.6 fan sensor
the 1.6 gauge bung with yellow arrow can be used on the 1.8 and 99 heads just fine, but...
I think you should do an autometer/omori plug there for aftermarket water temp gagues like I want you to make for me currently
Known Unknowns:
do you need an additional bung in the spacer for NA 1.8 cars?
How to make people stop bitching on the heater recirc?
Epiphany:
You don't have to do a bend arround the 99sensor bung-hole if you make 2 CLT bungs in the spacer (for 1.6 cars)...but good luck clearing coil packs
Do you want to look at my set-up again? I can swing by tomorrow on my way to Houston and you can check out my bung-holes...if I talk myself out of driving the Cobalt. I think there's money to be made on this, simplify it so one piece can do it all, and you guys sell stuff at reasonable prices so that's always a plus with us cheap bastards.
Here's what we want:
CLT sensor on the engine side of the t-stat (sensors in the front of the head suck because that's the coldest part)
heater port on the engine side of the t-stat
things you should do to make one unit, to use for all cars...even swap cars:
a provision to put the CLT sensor port in 99-heads (above the red circle)
you should also make sure the hump clears the coil pack
you should make a metal hose shaped like this, possibly with the heater return and bung for the 1.6 fan sensor
the 1.6 gauge bung with yellow arrow can be used on the 1.8 and 99 heads just fine, but...
I think you should do an autometer/omori plug there for aftermarket water temp gagues like I want you to make for me currently
Known Unknowns:
do you need an additional bung in the spacer for NA 1.8 cars?
How to make people stop bitching on the heater recirc?
Epiphany:
You don't have to do a bend arround the 99sensor bung-hole if you make 2 CLT bungs in the spacer (for 1.6 cars)...but good luck clearing coil packs
Do you want to look at my set-up again? I can swing by tomorrow on my way to Houston and you can check out my bung-holes...if I talk myself out of driving the Cobalt. I think there's money to be made on this, simplify it so one piece can do it all, and you guys sell stuff at reasonable prices so that's always a plus with us cheap bastards.
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