My turn!! A "budget" engine build discussion
#22
The only way i'd even bother trying to hit 300whp reliably on stock pistons, especially at your compression numbers, would be with E85.
If i want to do it on pump, it's going to be Supertechs.
And this is coming from someone who likes to tune his car by turning it up until it explodes, then backing off a click.
If i want to do it on pump, it's going to be Supertechs.
And this is coming from someone who likes to tune his car by turning it up until it explodes, then backing off a click.
#25
refresh the head (valve stems, cut valves/seats, resurface) and call it good
then beef up the block. I know people daily driving on forged pistons for 60+k miles so don't think that you will absolutely have to rebuild in 25k, though that is possible. It really depends. Pump gas and pistons I'd either drop compression and hope for the best or go forged.
250 on pump gas on a 10:1 motor with hard track use as well as every day daily driving would absolutely wear/tear the block down within 60-70k miles. sounds about right to me. he also has a turbo that comes on real soon
then beef up the block. I know people daily driving on forged pistons for 60+k miles so don't think that you will absolutely have to rebuild in 25k, though that is possible. It really depends. Pump gas and pistons I'd either drop compression and hope for the best or go forged.
250 on pump gas on a 10:1 motor with hard track use as well as every day daily driving would absolutely wear/tear the block down within 60-70k miles. sounds about right to me. he also has a turbo that comes on real soon
#26
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When you mention "refresh", I'm guessing you mean to re-use all the stock parts (obviously replacing valve seals w/new).
Oh, another detail- I'm definitely getting ARP head studs, but what level of importance should I put on obtaining the main stud kit?
Oh, another detail- I'm definitely getting ARP head studs, but what level of importance should I put on obtaining the main stud kit?
#27
refresh the head (valve stems, cut valves/seats, resurface) and call it good
then beef up the block. I know people daily driving on forged pistons for 60+k miles so don't think that you will absolutely have to rebuild in 25k, though that is possible. It really depends. Pump gas and pistons I'd either drop compression and hope for the best or go forged.
250 on pump gas on a 10:1 motor with hard track use as well as every day daily driving would absolutely wear/tear the block down within 60-70k miles. sounds about right to me. he also has a turbo that comes on real soon
then beef up the block. I know people daily driving on forged pistons for 60+k miles so don't think that you will absolutely have to rebuild in 25k, though that is possible. It really depends. Pump gas and pistons I'd either drop compression and hope for the best or go forged.
250 on pump gas on a 10:1 motor with hard track use as well as every day daily driving would absolutely wear/tear the block down within 60-70k miles. sounds about right to me. he also has a turbo that comes on real soon
Weird, ok, learn something every day. I figured it was just a question of bending rods vs. not bending rods.
Why would it wear down the block at that compression? Detonation?
#28
When it comes to sheer torque, sure, but when det happens it amplifies the force quite a bit. Now do that over 60k miles and I'm sure his engine took quite a beating.
I wouldn't be surprised to see bent rods when he pulls the stockers too.
I'm not sure about mains. I did install arp head studs on my engine too though
I wouldn't be surprised to see bent rods when he pulls the stockers too.
I'm not sure about mains. I did install arp head studs on my engine too though
#29
I would say that detonation is what killed his motor, he went from nice 93 octane in Georgia to the crappy winter 92 blend that we have in oregon that is largely inconsistent with its ethanol content with no difference in tune, Im not super familiar with the hydra ecu in Mike's car but I question the sophistication of the knock detection capabilities that it has. This coupled with the high compression OEM pistons he had I think led to some serious detonation, I know that the quality of our gas fluctuates wildly from summer to winter with winter gas often being the crappiest so Ive always made it a point to get tuned during the winter months. I think with a proper rebuild and a good conservative tune Mike will have a motor that will last significantly longer.
#30
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I just did a quick run-down of parts and pricing...I'm up to $1830 if I skip the OS valves and go forged pistons...and don't get them coated.
I'm also throwing in a few other parts..clutch, flywheel friction surface, "single" clutch line...
I'm also throwing in a few other parts..clutch, flywheel friction surface, "single" clutch line...
#31
Oh I'm not suggesting that, I'm just saying it's easier and quite a bit higher on the hp/$ scale vs OS valves. You could spend $500 on 1+ valves and machine work for 20whp, or spend $500 on a GT2876 (and selling your 2560) for 100whp. If you're trying to squeeze every bit out of what you have for class restrictions or something it makes sense, but since adding moar boostz has the same effect for free why not do that first?
#32
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Ok, so I'm about to pull the trigger on parts, think I'm too worried about cylinder wear/piston slap to feel comfortable with forged pistons....will be going with 4W stock oversize pistons.