New Harmonic Balancer from SuperMiata
11-02-2012, 10:44 PM
#81
I believe the AEM can use the stock 4 point trigger wheel. Savington went with a 12 point just for better resolution and it is the max that AEM will read.
AEM is PNP I believe for an 01, while an MS3X would need an adapter harness for it. Both will work for you and it just comes down to personal preference for which to use.
AEM is PNP I believe for an 01, while an MS3X would need an adapter harness for it. Both will work for you and it just comes down to personal preference for which to use.
I'm obviously biased, but one of the MS3 variants would be my first choice. It'll run off all the stock sensors, and the VVT system seems to be pretty well sorted on it from what I understand.
You'll have to supply your own wiring harness, as (to the best of my knowledge) nobody has PnP harnii available for the '01-'05 Miatas (they have a really odd ECU connector which differs greatly from the '90-'00 cars) however you can greatly simplify the task by starting with a Boomslang extension harness (the car side) and adapting it to the MS's connectors on the ECU side. For all I know, Boomslang might even be able to build you the whole harness- the list PnP harnesses for a number of other applications.
You'll have to supply your own wiring harness, as (to the best of my knowledge) nobody has PnP harnii available for the '01-'05 Miatas (they have a really odd ECU connector which differs greatly from the '90-'00 cars) however you can greatly simplify the task by starting with a Boomslang extension harness (the car side) and adapting it to the MS's connectors on the ECU side. For all I know, Boomslang might even be able to build you the whole harness- the list PnP harnesses for a number of other applications.
Back on topic - I want one of these!
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11-09-2012, 10:10 PM
#82
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The removal tool is proprietary. The damper has threaded bosses in its face. The installer is a cylindrical block with port for a breaker bar. The installer will be available to buy or rent from our site and possible TSE as well.
To install, thread small bolts through the installer into damper. Insert breaker bar through port to keep damper from rotating. Torque main bolt.
To remove use claw type puller.
To install, thread small bolts through the installer into damper. Insert breaker bar through port to keep damper from rotating. Torque main bolt.
To remove use claw type puller.
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11-10-2012, 12:36 AM
#83
Ok so i got my damper today, unfortunately i dont have the cash at the moment to get the installer. But from reading the statement above it sounds like the installer just holds the pulley still while you torque down the crank bolt? My engine is out, So cant i just use my flywheel holder tool to hold the flywheel while i torque the bolt? the crank bolt is pressing the pulley on correct? Also is there any where online i can order the crank bolt and key? part numbers would be appreciated!
MAZDASPEED MOTORSPORTS DEVELOPMENT - Miata Parts Catalogs and Collision Guides 1990-2002
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11-10-2012, 11:30 PM
#84
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BOLT,LCK C-SHAFT (B3C7-11-406) - $10.98 - B3C711406
KEY, WOODRUFF (B3C7-11-317)
KEY, WOODRUFF (B3C7-11-317) - $4.33 - B3C711317
Check me on this though, I've been drinking tonight
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11-11-2012, 03:05 PM
#86
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Let me get this straight... you just bought a $440 harmonic damper and you are going to attach it to what I assume is $2000-$3000 worth of built engine with hardware... from eBay?!
Come on man. I'm cheap as hell, but even I'm not that bad. Its $15.31 for OEM parts from a Mazda dealer. Is saving $5 at this point really that important to you?
Come on man. I'm cheap as hell, but even I'm not that bad. Its $15.31 for OEM parts from a Mazda dealer. Is saving $5 at this point really that important to you?
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11-15-2012, 01:54 AM
#88
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BOLT,LCK C-SHAFT (B3C7-11-406)
BOLT,LCK C-SHAFT (B3C7-11-406) - $10.98 - B3C711406
KEY, WOODRUFF (B3C7-11-317)
KEY, WOODRUFF (B3C7-11-317) - $4.33 - B3C711317
Check me on this though, I've been drinking tonight
BOLT,LCK C-SHAFT (B3C7-11-406) - $10.98 - B3C711406
KEY, WOODRUFF (B3C7-11-317)
KEY, WOODRUFF (B3C7-11-317) - $4.33 - B3C711317
Check me on this though, I've been drinking tonight
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11-15-2012, 08:38 PM
#89
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Funny you should mention this, something showed up today actually. Ill update that thread rather than crap up this one any more
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12-12-2012, 06:33 PM
#90
Installing the SPM damper
One can use the OEM crank bolt to press the damper onto the nose of the crankshaft. The preferred method however, is to use a damper installer that allows far more precise torque to be applied. You can use any standard damper installer that has a 14x1.5mm bolt option or you can rent ours for $30.
If installing on an engine that's not in a car, you can hold the crank from the flywheel end to torque the crank pulley bolt. If installing the damper while the engine is in the car, you will need a method to hold the crank stationary. Standard Miata crank holders will not work so you'll need to rent or buy our SPM damper crank holder tool.
If installing on an engine that's not in a car, you can hold the crank from the flywheel end to torque the crank pulley bolt. If installing the damper while the engine is in the car, you will need a method to hold the crank stationary. Standard Miata crank holders will not work so you'll need to rent or buy our SPM damper crank holder tool.
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12-12-2012, 10:58 PM
#91
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If installing the damper while the engine is in the car, you will need a method to hold the crank stationary. Standard Miata crank holders will not work so you'll need to rent or buy our SPM damper crank holder tool.
This is how I've torqued down OEM pulleys in the past. There's some slack in the drivetrain to take up, but it's doable.
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12-14-2012, 01:45 PM
#95
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Your e-brake is le suck. Before I had an impact manly enough to remove front crank bolts, I would always remove them that way before pulling the engine out of the car.
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12-14-2012, 03:18 PM
#97
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Do you generally have the rear wheels down on the ground? I have tried it on multiple different miatas, but the rear wheels have always been in the air. So that might possibly have something to do with it. Also my e-brake could just be the suxor. I have my FM tool now and have never had a problem since then.
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