Car won't start, need help...please
#1
Car won't start, need help...please
While cranking, it sounds like the timing or ignition settings are way off. Now, details....
I just finished rebuilding my engine. I have a 97 with the original 1.8. I finally got the car back together yesterday and on first crank it started up great. I set the timing with the CAS and timing light and let it idle for probably 5-10 minutes 3 or 4 times. I drove the car yesterday evening and this morning, put about 30 miles on it and things were going very smoothly it seems. Probably about a dozen or more stops and starts, btw. All good and consistent. Today, I remembered Corky Bell's comments on the BEGI site about breaking in a freshly built or rebuilt engine so I went to the site and re-read his directions, then decided to go put them to use.
I'm driving down the interstate, doing the 3rd gear redline runs which he instructs to do. On the 3rd pull i notice a fast paced clacking noise. This is when I am at roughly 6500 rpm. I immediately back off the gas, cruise to the next exit ramp, as soon as I get on the exit ramp I shift to neutral, the car shuts off by itself, I coast off the exit ramp into a nearby parking lot, the whole time I'm just thinking, WTF.
I check for leaks, unplugged wires, loose hoses or bolts or anything out of the ordinary and can't seem to find anything. I try to start the car up, it just cranks roughly and then gives a "buck" and stops. As if the cams are not positioned properly or the ignition wires are not plugged in the correct orientation. I loosened the CAS and tried various positions to see if it would react differently but still nothing. I go home, get my lappy, go back and plug up to make sure the spark settings aren't out of whack and everything seems to be fine. Just the way I left them before I had to pull the engine out.
So, now I don't know what the f to do. The weird noise makes me think it has something to do with the oil pump for some reason. And it's hard to tell because of the stupid 'on/off' gauge that mine has. I didn't think to undo the oil send line at the turbo to make sure it was pumping while cranking. Maybe I'll try that tomorrow. I'll list my mods and procedure of work so that you guys can get an idea of where I'm coming from.
Per the rebuild:
New main and rod bearings, .25 undersized, had to have crank ground to match. Machine shop said that a machine does the work so no balancing was needed and it was ready to install.
Original rods and pistons, new piston rings. Rods and pistons checked out by machinist.
New Boundary oil pump gears, original housing with 125k on it.
Head is untouched because I rebuilt it a couple years ago. All I did was unbolt it and replace it.
Other stuff:
MSPNP w/o MAF
Absurdflow parallel TT kit, open dp
FM dual feed rail
stock injectors
stock ignition
coolant re-route
Can upload my .msq file but I've been running the base map. The thing to note is that I drove the car 30 miles and let it idle a decent bit without ever having any issues. I won't be able to diagnose the "funny noise" issue until I can get the car to start up again.
Thanks guys
I just finished rebuilding my engine. I have a 97 with the original 1.8. I finally got the car back together yesterday and on first crank it started up great. I set the timing with the CAS and timing light and let it idle for probably 5-10 minutes 3 or 4 times. I drove the car yesterday evening and this morning, put about 30 miles on it and things were going very smoothly it seems. Probably about a dozen or more stops and starts, btw. All good and consistent. Today, I remembered Corky Bell's comments on the BEGI site about breaking in a freshly built or rebuilt engine so I went to the site and re-read his directions, then decided to go put them to use.
I'm driving down the interstate, doing the 3rd gear redline runs which he instructs to do. On the 3rd pull i notice a fast paced clacking noise. This is when I am at roughly 6500 rpm. I immediately back off the gas, cruise to the next exit ramp, as soon as I get on the exit ramp I shift to neutral, the car shuts off by itself, I coast off the exit ramp into a nearby parking lot, the whole time I'm just thinking, WTF.
I check for leaks, unplugged wires, loose hoses or bolts or anything out of the ordinary and can't seem to find anything. I try to start the car up, it just cranks roughly and then gives a "buck" and stops. As if the cams are not positioned properly or the ignition wires are not plugged in the correct orientation. I loosened the CAS and tried various positions to see if it would react differently but still nothing. I go home, get my lappy, go back and plug up to make sure the spark settings aren't out of whack and everything seems to be fine. Just the way I left them before I had to pull the engine out.
So, now I don't know what the f to do. The weird noise makes me think it has something to do with the oil pump for some reason. And it's hard to tell because of the stupid 'on/off' gauge that mine has. I didn't think to undo the oil send line at the turbo to make sure it was pumping while cranking. Maybe I'll try that tomorrow. I'll list my mods and procedure of work so that you guys can get an idea of where I'm coming from.
Per the rebuild:
New main and rod bearings, .25 undersized, had to have crank ground to match. Machine shop said that a machine does the work so no balancing was needed and it was ready to install.
Original rods and pistons, new piston rings. Rods and pistons checked out by machinist.
New Boundary oil pump gears, original housing with 125k on it.
Head is untouched because I rebuilt it a couple years ago. All I did was unbolt it and replace it.
Other stuff:
MSPNP w/o MAF
Absurdflow parallel TT kit, open dp
FM dual feed rail
stock injectors
stock ignition
coolant re-route
Can upload my .msq file but I've been running the base map. The thing to note is that I drove the car 30 miles and let it idle a decent bit without ever having any issues. I won't be able to diagnose the "funny noise" issue until I can get the car to start up again.
Thanks guys
#11
Ok, someone tell me if I'm missing something. I've R&R'ed the timing belt on this thing many times before so I think I have it right.
If the notch on the crank sprocket is lined up, that means the crank is at TDC. If the notches on each of the cams are directly vertical, then they are also at TDC and you can put the cam gears on them at the proper alignment, then set the tension of the belt and you're good to go, right? With every notch, indicator mark, or whatever facing vertical, the entire motor is aligned at TDC.
If the notch on the crank sprocket is lined up, that means the crank is at TDC. If the notches on each of the cams are directly vertical, then they are also at TDC and you can put the cam gears on them at the proper alignment, then set the tension of the belt and you're good to go, right? With every notch, indicator mark, or whatever facing vertical, the entire motor is aligned at TDC.
#13
Check spark. Pull off the plugs and holding the end near a ground, you should see sparks ark. Check fuel. Take the fuel lien off of the FPR and put it in a plastic water bottle and have a friend out the ignition into the on position. The fuel pump should prime and fill the plastic bottle. Then if that works maybe do the same steps to each injector to actually make sure they are cycling. Check coolant for a "milky" color and check oil for water.
#14
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Ok, someone tell me if I'm missing something. I've R&R'ed the timing belt on this thing many times before so I think I have it right.
If the notch on the crank sprocket is lined up, that means the crank is at TDC. If the notches on each of the cams are directly vertical, then they are also at TDC and you can put the cam gears on them at the proper alignment, then set the tension of the belt and you're good to go, right? With every notch, indicator mark, or whatever facing vertical, the entire motor is aligned at TDC.
If the notch on the crank sprocket is lined up, that means the crank is at TDC. If the notches on each of the cams are directly vertical, then they are also at TDC and you can put the cam gears on them at the proper alignment, then set the tension of the belt and you're good to go, right? With every notch, indicator mark, or whatever facing vertical, the entire motor is aligned at TDC.
#17
when cams are lined up, i.e. Intake cam has the 'e' matching up with the 'e' on the alignment plate behind the cams, and the exhaust cam has the 'i' matching up with the 'i' on the alignment plate, and consequently the 'i' on the intake cam and the 'e' on the exhaust cam are facing vertical, then the notch on the crank sprocket is also aligned with the mark on the oil pump body.
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