Noobish q: Complete NC 2.5 into a NB?
08-26-2016, 04:14 PM
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Noobish q: Complete NC 2.5 into a NB?
Apologies for not using my superior Google-fu to find all the answers (they are out there).
Inspired by all the issues a racing colleague is having with his 2.0 duratec in his NA, it would be interesting to make the theoretic exercise to see if I realistically could beat his 250 bhp with a lot less effort.
I have extra subframes and there is a potential street legal reason for using also the diff from a non-NB (I.e. the whole drivetrain from an NC)
Could one potentially use the NC prop shaft and PPF and hope to get things in the right place or will the engine end up in a completely wrong place (fast under the dash or into the radiator)?
Drive shafts, custom, combination (if CVs are compatible), or maybe msm?
Stupid idea perhaps, and potentially more than ten years old, but I'm a really slow procrastinator.
Inspired by all the issues a racing colleague is having with his 2.0 duratec in his NA, it would be interesting to make the theoretic exercise to see if I realistically could beat his 250 bhp with a lot less effort.
I have extra subframes and there is a potential street legal reason for using also the diff from a non-NB (I.e. the whole drivetrain from an NC)
Could one potentially use the NC prop shaft and PPF and hope to get things in the right place or will the engine end up in a completely wrong place (fast under the dash or into the radiator)?
Drive shafts, custom, combination (if CVs are compatible), or maybe msm?
Stupid idea perhaps, and potentially more than ten years old, but I'm a really slow procrastinator.
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08-26-2016, 04:25 PM
#2
If you haven't already seen them, these are currently the two best threads I know of for MZR into NA/NB.
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...pped-na-89695/
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...-67828/page30/
It's a cool swap with lots of potential for big power, but I'm still not sure there's any reason to choose MZR over K-series unless you really need to stick with a Mazda engine, which it sounds like you do.
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...pped-na-89695/
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...-67828/page30/
It's a cool swap with lots of potential for big power, but I'm still not sure there's any reason to choose MZR over K-series unless you really need to stick with a Mazda engine, which it sounds like you do.
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08-26-2016, 04:35 PM
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The whole drivertrain from a an NC means no adapters at all, and if I would like to fall under "complete drivetrain change" (only way to do anything interesting street legal here) I cannot keep a NB gearbox or diff.
The really interesting measurement would be the difference in driveshaft to bell-housing between NA/NB and NC, could tell a lot about the (lack of) feasibility.
The really interesting measurement would be the difference in driveshaft to bell-housing between NA/NB and NC, could tell a lot about the (lack of) feasibility.
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08-27-2016, 07:03 AM
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The idea would be Engine to diff from NC but hacked into NB subframes, so same old crappy suspension as always. 
NC wheelbase 2330 mm
NB wheelbase 2270 mm
That would put the NC 2nd sparkplug on the NB front axle, wonder how tight fit between the firewall and steering rack, some cutting would be needed.
NC wheelbase 2330 mm
NB wheelbase 2270 mm
That would put the NC 2nd sparkplug on the NB front axle, wonder how tight fit between the firewall and steering rack, some cutting would be needed.
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08-27-2016, 12:48 PM
#6
I'm pretty sure you wouldn't have to modify the firewall at all with the engine that far forward, but you probably won't clear the steering rack and almost definitely won't clear the sway bar.
There are some very reasonably priced dry sump kits for the MZR that open up a lot of space around the subframe, but finding somewhere to mount the oil tank in a street car would suck.
There are some very reasonably priced dry sump kits for the MZR that open up a lot of space around the subframe, but finding somewhere to mount the oil tank in a street car would suck.
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08-27-2016, 01:48 PM
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Without the whole thing on the ground and a tub on a 2-post lite it's hard to judge how wrong it would be, moving the diff rearward a little is fine for the axles, but shocks might be too close to comfort.
The swaybar is easier to handle than the steering rack, or the sloping hood, or the rad, ...
There is always the option of modded PPF and custom prop, which would solve a lot by modding two reasonable easy mods (relative to a number of other things).
The the for-aft issue would be moot (and the swap not so "simple" anymore).
I have too many dry sump systems close-by to ever want to install one. Every new idea seems to kill about two engines before they get it right.
The tank in the trunk works, once you figure out how to get the hoses there without any high points...
The swaybar is easier to handle than the steering rack, or the sloping hood, or the rad, ...
There is always the option of modded PPF and custom prop, which would solve a lot by modding two reasonable easy mods (relative to a number of other things).
The the for-aft issue would be moot (and the swap not so "simple" anymore).
I have too many dry sump systems close-by to ever want to install one. Every new idea seems to kill about two engines before they get it right.
The tank in the trunk works, once you figure out how to get the hoses there without any high points...
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