Clos561

iTrader: (3)

Im pulling my motor this summer to fix my leaky pan. Never done it before. What do i need besides the gasket maker? is there a gasket or something that goes in the half moon section under the crank or is that all gasket maker also?

crimson_yachiru

Yes. My gasket pack thingy also came with enough gasket maker to do the rest.

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

There is a rubber gasket front and back for the rounded areas. RTV for the flats(both sides of the baffle).

dustinb

Plan of spending a bunch of time taking the old silicone off of the motor and pan. It sucks.

flounder

Buy a bigger tube of black rtv than what comes in the kit.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

Understatement of the year right here.

skidude

iTrader: (3)

I did that recently when I had the motor on a stand, and even then it sucked, I can't imagine trying to get all the old silicone off with the motor still in the car.

crimson_yachiru

This:



plus this:



Make the job much easier and faster. I dunno how the others have been doing it, but it never seemed too hard to me when I used power tools.

You might want to PM BogusSVO and ask what he thinks, he seems to know his ---- pretty damn well.

Clos561

iTrader: (3)

i already have a large tube of the black rtv stuff. another question. Is it ok to swap in new bearings? my engine is nearing 200k with almost 20k being turbo. i dont experience any knock or strange ticking but just wondering if it would be a good idea to replace them or if its even possible without needing to go to a shop. I figure i that as long as i tq the bolts back down to spec it should be ok right?

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

**** it - might as well rebuild the whole engine while you're in there. Since you have the engine out, you're going to want to freshen up all the bits in the bay. Drain all the fluids, take out all the reservoirs, clean and powdercoat things. I would say to take a good rag to the steering rack, but hell, you should probably just remove the front subframe so you can get it really super clean - all showcar like even; since you're going to be working on the subframe, you might as well install some poly bushings in the control arms - and get a better suspension while you're in there. If you haven't replaced the front hubs in the last 50k miles, now's a pretty good time to do that, since you've got it all apart anyways. Make sure you get some stainless brake lines in there too - but don't do just the fronts, you're going to have to do the rears too, otherwise it just doesn't make sense. Since you're already doing brake lines, poly bushings, and rear suspension, you should probably take the rear subframe off and clean it up too - wouldn't want to leave it all grimey and nasty and have the front one pretty. Get in there, clean it up a bit. If you've got both subframes off, there's no reason you shouldn't inspect the underbody for rust/grime/etc. Get some underbody coating and take care of all of that. Once you've got all that taken care of, the entire drivetrain/underside of the car will be sparkly and shiny!! Now, you certainly cant have the underside/drivetrain of the car all freshened up and not touch the interior.........

skidude

iTrader: (3)

I just finished that... Took the motor out to change some seals, timing belt, and put in a 6-speed, ended up cleaning everything, stainless brake and clutch lines, painting stuff, removing extra crap, re-routing vac hoses and engine grounds, oil lines, installed a little dynamat. Cost twice what I budgeted, but I'm not embarassed to open the hood anymore. That's worth it, right? RIGHT?

Clos561

iTrader: (3)

i never thought of that! thanks for the advice. looks like I have a busy summer.