A probable solution to Begi's racer reroute warmup times?
#21
Former Vendor
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The solution is to return it to the factory coolant routing. Whether you use the factory pipe that returns coolant to the mixing manifold post-radiator, or return it via rubber hose and a tee to the lower coolant hose that is also post-radiator, is up to you.
#28
I cannot understand why they would ever route the heater return to the top rad hose and expect the engine to warm up at a reasonable rate while getting all that cold water from the radiator.
I am going to use a honda heater valve (nice and compact) with a pull **** in the cabin to block off the coolant flow from the heater core to the mixing manifold (or lower rad hose)for track use, it worked great on my NA oem warmup times and no hot water going back in the engine on track.
I am going to use a honda heater valve (nice and compact) with a pull **** in the cabin to block off the coolant flow from the heater core to the mixing manifold (or lower rad hose)for track use, it worked great on my NA oem warmup times and no hot water going back in the engine on track.
#29
Exactly, why do people keep screwing with the stock coolant system. I have never seen a single system failure that can be attributed to uneven cooling\heating of the block or cylinders.
The likely hood that there is any real power to be gained is also very very low. As far as I can tell all these re route kits have ever done is cause problems.
The likely hood that there is any real power to be gained is also very very low. As far as I can tell all these re route kits have ever done is cause problems.
#31
Cpt. Slow
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What the actual **** is going on in here??
Keep it ******* stock (with a reroute)! I have a $100 radiator from ebay, a simple $90 reroute spacer, and $12 GM upper radiator hose. Heater core route is essentially stock, and with a 180* thermostat I have great warm up times, heat in the cabin, and an easily controlled engine temp.
WHY ARE THERE VALVES IN YOUR HEATING SYSTEM???
Keep it ******* stock (with a reroute)! I have a $100 radiator from ebay, a simple $90 reroute spacer, and $12 GM upper radiator hose. Heater core route is essentially stock, and with a 180* thermostat I have great warm up times, heat in the cabin, and an easily controlled engine temp.
WHY ARE THERE VALVES IN YOUR HEATING SYSTEM???
#32
Your engine adds some value of Q (Joules) to your coolant. Your radiator must reject this Q (Joules) to the atmosphere. It doesn't matter what back flips it goes through inbetween, those are the facts. If your radiator is too small, then your radiator is too small.
Further I've been running a Mishimoto "Heavy duty" for like 4 years. It cost 300 bucks. It has a warranty, and is good quality. If you have the money to put a turbo on your car, you probably should be able to afford $300.
The second option is to ream in moderation. Ream for 60 seconds, then let it cool off. If you want maximum ream, then you have to pay maximum dollars.
#33
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Exactly, why do people keep screwing with the stock coolant system. I have never seen a single system failure that can be attributed to uneven cooling\heating of the block or cylinders.
The likely hood that there is any real power to be gained is also very very low. As far as I can tell all these re route kits have ever done is cause problems.
The likely hood that there is any real power to be gained is also very very low. As far as I can tell all these re route kits have ever done is cause problems.
Don't confuse garbage reroutes like the one shown in this thread with the high-quality reroutes that most people build and/or install themselves.
#35
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Actually, yours is fine. I'd prefer to see one of our Coolant Blockoff kits instead of the stock water neck on the front of the motor, but to each his own. I was referring to the OP's reroute, which is not ideal (as evidenced by the issues he's having with it). Yours moves the thermostat and main coolant exit to the back of the head, where it belongs, so it's a good improvement over the stock setup. The M-Tuned kits are great because they drop into place with no fabrication required (even for people who still have EGR) and they work as intended, but if you can get the same function with DIY parts and are willing to spend the time to make it work, more power to you.
Trackspeed Coolant Blockoff
M-Tuned Reroute @ Trackspeed
Trackspeed Coolant Blockoff
M-Tuned Reroute @ Trackspeed
#36
I just like to be able to burp the air out the front of the engine when filling it (seems like there is always a little bit of air traped there) hence the threaded plug on the front but it will probably burp out the back if you break hard a few times when the thermosthat is open or track the car.
#37
Ah, no. Mazda is the one that "screwed" with the coolant system when they took the Protege motor and turned it sideways for use in the Miata. Lots of empirical testing shows that good reroutes that return the engine to its original FWD coolant routing (i.e. M-tuned or similar design) improve system efficiency by evening coolant distribution across the four cylinders, resulting in lower coolant temps.
Don't confuse garbage reroutes like the one shown in this thread with the high-quality reroutes that most people build and/or install themselves.
Don't confuse garbage reroutes like the one shown in this thread with the high-quality reroutes that most people build and/or install themselves.
#38
screen cap
And TravisR, I'm not running a turbo in my car.