Oil and water temp on track, yes its exciting!
08-23-2010, 02:53 PM
#1
Oil and water temp on track, yes its exciting!
What's people seeing on water and oil
After 3-4 hot laps on a 2 minute circuit, oil temp approaches 280F and water temp is around 240 with the heater cranked on
At highway cruise, ive seen oil temp as high as 240, water remains usually pretty stable around 210.
I've only seen worryingly high (and fast build up) of oil and water temps on the track,
Is this normal? that i have to duck back into the pits every 3 laps on a turbo miata? maybe im missing something but ive seen subarus and turbo hondas run all day without the same issues
Car is a 03 NB with a FM GT2560 turbo,
I have the 55mm Haste rad
car also has the FM oil cooler
car has a M-tuned coolant reroute involving 2 thermostats and a T-joint joining the back coolant flow with the front before flowing into the rad
Please help
After 3-4 hot laps on a 2 minute circuit, oil temp approaches 280F and water temp is around 240 with the heater cranked on
At highway cruise, ive seen oil temp as high as 240, water remains usually pretty stable around 210.
I've only seen worryingly high (and fast build up) of oil and water temps on the track,
Is this normal? that i have to duck back into the pits every 3 laps on a turbo miata? maybe im missing something but ive seen subarus and turbo hondas run all day without the same issues
Car is a 03 NB with a FM GT2560 turbo,
I have the 55mm Haste rad
car also has the FM oil cooler
car has a M-tuned coolant reroute involving 2 thermostats and a T-joint joining the back coolant flow with the front before flowing into the rad
Please help
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08-23-2010, 02:56 PM
#2
Go with a single T-Stat setup.
Search forum for "ducting" <-- very important
If you've got a fan shroud, ditch it.
There are a few notable turbo track cars on here - a couple notable active members are savington and hustler, look at their build threads for ideas. There are many others.
Edit: What head gasket are you running? If you've run the coolant reroute, you'll want to use an NA head gasket.
Search forum for "ducting" <-- very important
If you've got a fan shroud, ditch it.
There are a few notable turbo track cars on here - a couple notable active members are savington and hustler, look at their build threads for ideas. There are many others.
Edit: What head gasket are you running? If you've run the coolant reroute, you'll want to use an NA head gasket.
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08-23-2010, 03:02 PM
#3
Cpt. Slow
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There's gotta be something weird going on. When you posted your oil and water temps on track, I figured you were on the stock cooling setup with no oil cooler.
But you are not.
A double pass radiator may be in your future, along with proper ducting, as fooger said.
But you are not.
A double pass radiator may be in your future, along with proper ducting, as fooger said.
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08-23-2010, 03:10 PM
#4
Go with a single T-Stat setup.
Search forum for "ducting" <-- very important
If you've got a fan shroud, ditch it.
There are a few notable turbo track cars on here - a couple notable active members are savington and hustler, look at their build threads for ideas. There are many others.
Edit: What head gasket are you running? If you've run the coolant reroute, you'll want to use an NA head gasket.
Search forum for "ducting" <-- very important
If you've got a fan shroud, ditch it.
There are a few notable turbo track cars on here - a couple notable active members are savington and hustler, look at their build threads for ideas. There are many others.
Edit: What head gasket are you running? If you've run the coolant reroute, you'll want to use an NA head gasket.
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0
08-23-2010, 03:14 PM
#5
I believe the headgasket issues you guys are talking about are in the 01+ miata's. They don't like the re-route because the hg is different circulating water differently than earlier miatas.
OP do you have your undertray in place?
If so id do proper shrouding first then the big rad.
OP do you have your undertray in place?
If so id do proper shrouding first then the big rad.
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08-23-2010, 03:53 PM
#6
Fixed.
OP,
Shrouding covers the rear of the radiator to improve the performance of fans, and generally offers more improvement at lower speeds. The benefit of shrouding at track speeds is debateable. It depends on the fans and shroud used, as well as placement and use of 1-way panels within the shroud itself.
Ducting forces the incoming air to pass through the heat exchangers instead of going around them. The benefits of ducting are proven.
+1 on 18psi's comment on undertray. If you're not running the plastic undertray (or an equivalent aftermarket variation) then you're loosing a LOT of cooling capacity at higher speeds. The undertray helps create a vacuum in the engine bay. You'll also want to ensure that the rear of the hood is sealed to the firewall. If you have any venting in the hood, it must all pull air OUT of the engine bay (Extraction Hood). Forcing air into the engine bay by any means other than through the heat exhangers is counter-effective to good cooling.
You can use a TSI if it feeds into a "sealed" air intake box. Do not use a TSI if it feeds into the open engine bay.
OP,
Shrouding covers the rear of the radiator to improve the performance of fans, and generally offers more improvement at lower speeds. The benefit of shrouding at track speeds is debateable. It depends on the fans and shroud used, as well as placement and use of 1-way panels within the shroud itself.
Ducting forces the incoming air to pass through the heat exchangers instead of going around them. The benefits of ducting are proven.
+1 on 18psi's comment on undertray. If you're not running the plastic undertray (or an equivalent aftermarket variation) then you're loosing a LOT of cooling capacity at higher speeds. The undertray helps create a vacuum in the engine bay. You'll also want to ensure that the rear of the hood is sealed to the firewall. If you have any venting in the hood, it must all pull air OUT of the engine bay (Extraction Hood). Forcing air into the engine bay by any means other than through the heat exhangers is counter-effective to good cooling.
You can use a TSI if it feeds into a "sealed" air intake box. Do not use a TSI if it feeds into the open engine bay.
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08-23-2010, 06:45 PM
#8
Go with a single T-Stat setup.
Search forum for "ducting" <-- very important
If you've got a fan shroud, ditch it.
There are a few notable turbo track cars on here - a couple notable active members are savington and hustler, look at their build threads for ideas. There are many others.
Edit: What head gasket are you running? If you've run the coolant reroute, you'll want to use an NA head gasket.
Search forum for "ducting" <-- very important
If you've got a fan shroud, ditch it.
There are a few notable turbo track cars on here - a couple notable active members are savington and hustler, look at their build threads for ideas. There are many others.
Edit: What head gasket are you running? If you've run the coolant reroute, you'll want to use an NA head gasket.
A shop is doing the 2nd fan mod to the rad (something I could've done, but just not have the time at the moment) and have it wire to a switch so I can have some control to when the 2nd fan kicks on.
Other things I've looked at include taking the reroute back out, putting a lower temp thermostat into the motor (which aside from the hardcore JDM thermostats, i havent found one that will fit the 01-05)
As for the oil cooler, I wanted to run 2 ducts from the fog light slots in the bumper into the oil cooler, but space is very very tight and the fog light openings are pretty big, I asked the shop doing my fan now to see what can be done, so we shall see on friday
Shrouding is defenitely something I've looked into, I can see lots of space below the rad that can fit a diffuser, time to maybe design something
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