What oil and weight for my motor
05-12-2014, 02:48 PM
#21
It'll be fine. Your oil pressure will be a little higher, but nothing to worry about. I run 5w40 in everything I've owned (SBC Camaro, I4 DOHC Miata, V6 DOHC Taurus SHO) and everything has liked it.
Was talking to a fleet manager for a local business, and he runs 5w40 in e'rything. He replaced a few engines sub 100k when he was using 10w30, and hasn't replaced an engine since he switched. Some of them have over 250k.
Was talking to a fleet manager for a local business, and he runs 5w40 in e'rything. He replaced a few engines sub 100k when he was using 10w30, and hasn't replaced an engine since he switched. Some of them have over 250k.
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05-12-2014, 05:17 PM
#22
The new engine oils (0W20 junk) are like water. HATE them. GM actually replaced the cam and lifters in my 2009 G8. Now I run Rotella in that car. I've never had a car wipe its cam before.
EPA mandated. Now answer me this . . . do the green nutjobs at EPA like your car? That's all you need to know.
EPA mandated. Now answer me this . . . do the green nutjobs at EPA like your car? That's all you need to know.
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05-12-2014, 05:26 PM
#23
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The new engine oils (0W20 junk) are like water. HATE them. GM actually replaced the cam and lifters in my 2009 G8. Now I run Rotella in that car. I've never had a car wipe its cam before.
EPA mandated. Now answer me this . . . do the green nutjobs at EPA like your car? That's all you need to know.
EPA mandated. Now answer me this . . . do the green nutjobs at EPA like your car? That's all you need to know.
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05-12-2014, 06:41 PM
#24
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Would I be stupid to put the same T6 into my 97 Civic VTEC daily? It currently runs Mobil 1 5w30 with no issues and with additives I use I have lost a lot of the ticking over time but some is still there. I don't want to sacrafice too much MPG as it's my DD though
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05-12-2014, 06:53 PM
#25
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Ive heard lots of guys running D16, B16, and B18 engines on T6, and they swear by it just like we do. Im not sure what it will do to your gas mileage though... i cant imagine it dropping more than 1-2 mpgs though honestly
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05-15-2014, 09:20 PM
#29
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I put T6 on my toast and in my oatmeal. I put it in gasoline vehicles starting with 50k miles that have gone over 330k miles without a single internal engine issue. I jizz T6. It is the top oil I know of for the right additives in the right amounts. Just go on bobistheoilguy.com if you have questions. Everybody who knows oil knows it is the best.
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05-16-2014, 08:36 AM
#32
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I would recommend 3 thousand miles in a turbo vehicle, just like any regular oil. I change mine every trackday or so, just because trackdays are really tough on everything due to the extra heat and increased forces due to high load and high RPMs. In my naturally aspirated vehicles I go 5 or even 8 thousand if I am too busy to get free time on the weekends due to traveling out of town. The oil itself doesn't break down, per se, but rather the additive package gets used up over time causing the oil to be less effective at controlling acid formation, controlling particulates, and protecting surfaces. The viscosity extending polymers break down during use as well. T6 uses better long chain polymers to resist breakdown better and uses more and often times better additives than conventional automotive oil so that during the time it is used the engine will be better protected. That can be translated into longer intervals if you like but I prefer to let it mean better protection during the regular length intervals.
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05-16-2014, 11:29 AM
#33
I wrote this up for a local forum when a similar question was brought up so please excuse the redundancy if someone has mentioned these items - Honestly I have done very extensive research on oil and attended training's from one of a handful of Certified Lubrication Specialist in the world. Having a 1.8L produce nearly 5 times what it was it's intended for means I need to run the right fluids. A couple of things that are extremely important and are often overlooked.
1. Don't change your oil weight without a reason. Your choice on oil weight should be based on bearing clearances or temperature extremes (depending on the viscosity index rating of the oil you choose). Think of it this way - Too thick of oil and it won't make it into the bearing surfaces. Too thin and it will not properly protect the surface.
2. Oil base is also really important. Things have changed in the last few years and Oil technology is not the same as it used to be. The oil base to look for is "mPAO". Viscosity index is key. Viscosity index shows how much the thickness of the oil will change at different temperatures. For example, I want my 5w30 oil to be the same thickness at 30 degrees as it is at 220 degrees. mPAO base means better viscosity stability. This basically means it's got a great viscosity index, it holds the proper viscosity at lower and higher temps which equates to the oil getting to the bearings sooner at start-up and it staying as thick as it should when I'm beating the **** out of the car on a track.
3. Additives - ZINC vs Detergent ratio. ZINC and ZDDP are polar molecules that are chemically attracted to metal surfaces. This is AWESOME because that's exactly what we want. Detergent is added to keep surfaces clean. Consequently these two chemicals fight each-other. Zinc coats your bearing surfaces and Detergent cleans it off. You do need a mix of both to keep things happy and clean but for most of us who perform regular oil changes, detergent levels don't need to be so high.
A number of other things come into play but for the most part they are covered in the oil base (shear strength, breakdown life...). If you have any questions please let me know.
1. Don't change your oil weight without a reason. Your choice on oil weight should be based on bearing clearances or temperature extremes (depending on the viscosity index rating of the oil you choose). Think of it this way - Too thick of oil and it won't make it into the bearing surfaces. Too thin and it will not properly protect the surface.
2. Oil base is also really important. Things have changed in the last few years and Oil technology is not the same as it used to be. The oil base to look for is "mPAO". Viscosity index is key. Viscosity index shows how much the thickness of the oil will change at different temperatures. For example, I want my 5w30 oil to be the same thickness at 30 degrees as it is at 220 degrees. mPAO base means better viscosity stability. This basically means it's got a great viscosity index, it holds the proper viscosity at lower and higher temps which equates to the oil getting to the bearings sooner at start-up and it staying as thick as it should when I'm beating the **** out of the car on a track.
3. Additives - ZINC vs Detergent ratio. ZINC and ZDDP are polar molecules that are chemically attracted to metal surfaces. This is AWESOME because that's exactly what we want. Detergent is added to keep surfaces clean. Consequently these two chemicals fight each-other. Zinc coats your bearing surfaces and Detergent cleans it off. You do need a mix of both to keep things happy and clean but for most of us who perform regular oil changes, detergent levels don't need to be so high.
A number of other things come into play but for the most part they are covered in the oil base (shear strength, breakdown life...). If you have any questions please let me know.
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05-16-2014, 12:00 PM
#35
T6 is not a bad off the shelf oil. It's important to remember that shelf oils are still heavily regulated. After a ton of homework I decided to run and sell Joe Gibbs Driven oil. LINK
One of the only companies to actually list the ratios of additives and show a viscosity index rating. Plus the use the mPAO base.
One of the only companies to actually list the ratios of additives and show a viscosity index rating. Plus the use the mPAO base.
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05-16-2014, 12:16 PM
#36
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My flat tappet cam TruckBeast runs Rotella T 20w50 dino lube and everything else I touch runs Rotella T6 5w40. It's the bees knees. Its about the only thing thats readily available OTS that won't break the bank. My other favorite is Pennzoil Platinum for things that don't seem to like a 5w40.
Back when I was maintaining equipment I used Chevron Delo 400 in everydamnthing. Then they reformulated it for "lower sulphur emissions" or some bullshit. 450~500ish hours after switching to the "new" Delo 400 I had the cam go flat in a propane fired generator set. I was not amused.
Back when I was maintaining equipment I used Chevron Delo 400 in everydamnthing. Then they reformulated it for "lower sulphur emissions" or some bullshit. 450~500ish hours after switching to the "new" Delo 400 I had the cam go flat in a propane fired generator set. I was not amused.
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05-16-2014, 12:29 PM
#37
My flat tappet cam TruckBeast runs Rotella T 20w50 dino lube and everything else I touch runs Rotella T6 5w40. It's the bees knees. Its about the only thing thats readily available OTS that won't break the bank. My other favorite is Pennzoil Platinum for things that don't seem to like a 5w40.
Back when I was maintaining equipment I used Chevron Delo 400 in everydamnthing. Then they reformulated it for "lower sulphur emissions" or some bullshit. 450~500ish hours after switching to the "new" Delo 400 I had the cam go flat in a propane fired generator set. I was not amused.
Back when I was maintaining equipment I used Chevron Delo 400 in everydamnthing. Then they reformulated it for "lower sulphur emissions" or some bullshit. 450~500ish hours after switching to the "new" Delo 400 I had the cam go flat in a propane fired generator set. I was not amused.
Right the sulfur additives is what makes Rotella a good choice for the turbo cars. A much harder oil to burn with the sulfur content they use even though it was reduced in the last few years. I believe that's how Rotella got their start - Diesel truck oil? They just happened to make it in a couple of usable viscosity ratings for smaller gas engines.
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05-16-2014, 01:02 PM
#38
Rotella has always been marketed as a diesel oil and has a lot of detergency because of that. But I run it in all my cars that have flat tappet cams. My wife's '81 380SL (interference engine) just loves the stuff.
Unfortunately, you just can't rely upon a consistent formulation in any of these oils, and the EPA regs are affecting diesel formulations as well. Still way better than gasoline formulas at this time.
Once upon a time, you could count on new formulations being improvements for engine protection. Not anymore. Now, they are trying to improve catalytic converter life and fuel economy. Engine wear be damned.
Unfortunately, you just can't rely upon a consistent formulation in any of these oils, and the EPA regs are affecting diesel formulations as well. Still way better than gasoline formulas at this time.
Once upon a time, you could count on new formulations being improvements for engine protection. Not anymore. Now, they are trying to improve catalytic converter life and fuel economy. Engine wear be damned.
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05-16-2014, 01:09 PM
#39
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Rotella has always been marketed as a diesel oil and has a lot of detergency because of that. But I run it in all my cars that have flat tappet cams. My wife's '81 380SL (interference engine) just loves the stuff.
Unfortunately, you just can't rely upon a consistent formulation in any of these oils, and the EPA regs are affecting diesel formulations as well. Still way better than gasoline formulas at this time.
Once upon a time, you could count on new formulations being improvements for engine protection. Not anymore. Now, they are trying to improve catalytic converter life and fuel economy. Engine wear be damned.
Unfortunately, you just can't rely upon a consistent formulation in any of these oils, and the EPA regs are affecting diesel formulations as well. Still way better than gasoline formulas at this time.
Once upon a time, you could count on new formulations being improvements for engine protection. Not anymore. Now, they are trying to improve catalytic converter life and fuel economy. Engine wear be damned.
*********kers. /rant. Filling with T6.
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05-16-2014, 01:20 PM
#40
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The EPA would rather your car eat itself so you are forced to buy a new one every 7-10 years that gets better mileage with lower emissions. Automotive manufacturers play this game as well. They don't make money from you driving that 14 year old Honda.
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