Why should I not do this? NOS - big turbo spool
#22
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Its better than most setups, but far from ideal
before i was into turbos I played around with nitrous for a long time, and really learned how tricky it is to mak nitrous work the way it should.
its hard to believe, but over 99% of all nitrous is done wrong (even by professionals).
for one those solenoids are not good, they flow very poorly and cause the nitrous to turn into gas prematurely, they also have a tendancy to leak.
before i was into turbos I played around with nitrous for a long time, and really learned how tricky it is to mak nitrous work the way it should.
its hard to believe, but over 99% of all nitrous is done wrong (even by professionals).
for one those solenoids are not good, they flow very poorly and cause the nitrous to turn into gas prematurely, they also have a tendancy to leak.
#27
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well, a smaller turbine usually needs the larger gates. Back when i had a VW the shitty ******** at EIP tuning sprayed nitrous into the compressor inlet for quick spool. This was in between them ripping me off and sending me their old junk before they closed the shitty business.
#31
Its better than most setups, but far from ideal
before i was into turbos I played around with nitrous for a long time, and really learned how tricky it is to mak nitrous work the way it should.
its hard to believe, but over 99% of all nitrous is done wrong (even by professionals).
for one those solenoids are not good, they flow very poorly and cause the nitrous to turn into gas prematurely, they also have a tendancy to leak.
before i was into turbos I played around with nitrous for a long time, and really learned how tricky it is to mak nitrous work the way it should.
its hard to believe, but over 99% of all nitrous is done wrong (even by professionals).
for one those solenoids are not good, they flow very poorly and cause the nitrous to turn into gas prematurely, they also have a tendancy to leak.
#33
In my opinion if i go through the trouble and spend the money to put a nitrous kit on my car then im not gonna have it shut off when the turbo spools. Also dry kits are much much safer given you have some form of engine management, no intake flows perfect and there's always one cylinder getting more air then the other which is fine until the air contains a portion of your fuel mixture at which point that cylinder will run lean and the first thing to go will be either a piston or a valve. For me it was a valve.
#36
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I see a pro shot solenoid on there (the big one). That will flow well over 300 hp. I see a small one pointing down on the first pic. Is that what you are talking about? Is that possibly a purge solenoid? I can not see where the oulet line is going on the small solenoid.
NOS solenoids are internally very poorly designed with lots of sharp edges and have areas that allow the liquid nitrous to expand into a gas, which really hurts not only the amount of power you can make but also how well it atomizes and how consistent the AFR's are
#38
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The thing to always keep in mind is that it is a spool helper and not a power adder and should be treated that way. That way you don't use much nox, and you don't screw with the big power part of your tune. If you are running 20 psi and the nitrous cuts off when it gets you to 12psi, you aren't really pushing your engine's capabilities, but enhancing the width of the powerband.
Personally, I'd rather downshift if given the choice and not screw with it. But one of the guys I know is fond of gadgets and gizmos and just had to have it.
#40
Why not????
Because your dyno graph will end up with a big ***** in it:
Sorry, couldn't resist...that was a good one by Ben.
Seriously though I'd worry about screwing up the powerband if you get carried away. Six shooter hit it best...using it as a spool aid and not a power adder and you should be golden.
I just know I don't want to be worried about whether I'm at 4000rpm or 4500rpm mid-turn, and what kind of kick I'm going to get as I roll onto the throttle. I only say this as I know you plan to use it as a street machine...and driveability could end up being teh suck.
We already have enough traction problems...and I think a 50 shot available for 1000rpm midrange will only complicate things.
I know people use it...but I'd try and find a Miata-specific app and grill the owner before I went about it.
I do support the idea solely on principle though. I think we are all waaay too friggin' scared to run BIG turbos and see what the Miata can really do. I know the powerband with anything bigger than a 2871 starts to suck fast...but this could really help. I imagine it doesn't take much to drop target boost rpm down to where it's really useable on a huge snail.
Good luck!
Because your dyno graph will end up with a big ***** in it:
Sorry, couldn't resist...that was a good one by Ben.
Seriously though I'd worry about screwing up the powerband if you get carried away. Six shooter hit it best...using it as a spool aid and not a power adder and you should be golden.
I just know I don't want to be worried about whether I'm at 4000rpm or 4500rpm mid-turn, and what kind of kick I'm going to get as I roll onto the throttle. I only say this as I know you plan to use it as a street machine...and driveability could end up being teh suck.
We already have enough traction problems...and I think a 50 shot available for 1000rpm midrange will only complicate things.
I know people use it...but I'd try and find a Miata-specific app and grill the owner before I went about it.
I do support the idea solely on principle though. I think we are all waaay too friggin' scared to run BIG turbos and see what the Miata can really do. I know the powerband with anything bigger than a 2871 starts to suck fast...but this could really help. I imagine it doesn't take much to drop target boost rpm down to where it's really useable on a huge snail.
Good luck!