When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
At work we have some stuff, CNC mill/lathe and non cnc mill/lathe and everything i need. Sheet metal cut machine and bend machine.. I don't know the correct english term but i think you know what i mean
This is how it looks right now. The 3D prints works good, very stiff and made out of ABS. The prints were very cheap to try it out first at only 25 dollar
Oooh, I'm going to have to work my way through this thread.
Here's one I'm working on - not done obviously. 3d printed core for a home investment casting of an intake manifold. This specifically is to fit an Arctic Cat 50mm throttle body pair to a heavily ported 13B to go into a Miata based Locost.
The homebrew foundry itself. Oil burning furnace burner - works great.
At work we have some stuff, CNC mill/lathe and non cnc mill/lathe and everything i need. Sheet metal cut machine and bend machine.. I don't know the correct english term but i think you know what i mean
Since you have access to a lathe, I recommend turning a plug and pressing metal velocity stacks. Unless you don't have access to a press, but the harbor freight presses are cheap.
Oooh, I'm going to have to work my way through this thread.
Here's one I'm working on - not done obviously. 3d printed core for a home investment casting of an intake manifold. This specifically is to fit an Arctic Cat 50mm throttle body pair to a heavily ported 13B to go into a Miata based Locost.
The homebrew foundry itself. Oil burning furnace burner - works great.
More info on the foundry? I've wanted to build one for years but have never taken the plunge...
Since you have access to a lathe, I recommend turning a plug and pressing metal velocity stacks. Unless you don't have access to a press, but the harbor freight presses are cheap.
Looks good, also have a press at work. Was it easy to press? lubricant and one shape to form it?
More info on the foundry? I've wanted to build one for years but have never taken the plunge...
Shell is a dead hot water heater we had sitting around and it's filled with the refractory recipe from the Backyard Metal Casting site - combination of sand, perlite, portland cement and fireclay - by which I mean oildry. It's OK for aluminum but ferrous stuff will probably kill it. Poured a couple inches in the bottom, let it set, torched a hole in the side, stuck a 12" sonotube in the middle and a piece of dead leaf blower in the hole in the side offset, and did a bunch of pours until that was full. Lid was a cutoff section with rebar and more homebrew refractory, hinge is a clutch pedal from a VW Rabbit, and I welded a piece of channel on the side so the drum cart thing seen in the picture can latch onto it. There's lots of burner solutions, but that one is from an old oil burning furnace - has an ignition coil, pump, blower, injector, etc all in one self contained unit, so you just feed it diesel, give it 110V and glorious high BTU fire comes out. Have probably less than a hundred bucks in supplies into it, but the burner was literally sitting around my parent's barn from after they upgraded to gas heat. Crucible was a stainless sauce pot acquired from goodwill - which is ******* scary. Got a big clay graphite crucible but still need to make lifting and pouring tongs, and I got busy with new-homeowner-stuff for the last few years. Finally getting back to it.
Looks good, also have a press at work. Was it easy to press? lubricant and one shape to form it?
Very easy to press. that's stainless tube as well, right from mcmaster (annealed). Aluminum would be even simpler. Lube was engine assembly lube that was on the next table over.
What runner length did you end up with? Obviously with the air horns as you have them you can tailor the length fairly easy so long as you have room inside the plenum. Nicely thought out and applied. In for dyno also.
I have been practicing tubing joints and experimenting with the mig like tig thing. It's slowly getting better. I think I'm going to dial back the intensity of the whip movement and worry less about getting a tig look. I have another 16 feet of erw showing up that I will notch into 4" pieces for practice.
It fits and works, now it is time to clean everything up and retune it. I will post some result with a virtualdyno plot.. old vs new manifold.
Also need to re-install the LS coils again
Its a little bit bigger than i thought but i think it look good, so i will see how it drives. If it works will my next step is MR-2 powersteeringpump, BMW waterpump and V mount radiator setup
The engine bay itself isnt very nice, but thats because this was a very cheap car i have bought after the accident with my 1994 NA and i needed a new car to put this engine in. Car itself is in decent shape so it will turn out good when the engine bay is clean
First i have to see how this works out. Then i will think about it. But i also work together with a mx-5 specialist in my free time so maybe we can make a production version out of cast aluminium
Designed this little guy in the BabyCAD software that eMachineshop gives you:
They are so damn shiny and pretty... 6061 aluminum, each one weighs less than all of the blood in a churchmouse. Seriously, it's comical how little these things weigh as compared to how rigid they are.
The two holes in the raised section are threaded M4 x 0.7, and located 100 mm apart. General hole-to-hole spacing is 10mm Because VESA.
09-30-2016, 02:19 PM
0
