TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

I see the 3" 90deg 304ss unpolished without straight sections at $34 each. But yeah, ideally the polished with legs would be used, those are $65 from mcmaster. Fail.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Ace stainless has the unpolished/no leg for $13.30. Short leg no polish, and no leg polish are $22.95. Hmmm....

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

thats more along the line of my pricing.
still a bit high though

Deepstriker

Nothing super impressive but I thought I'd share. Modified my Maxim Works header to better accomidate my Rotrex charger (Yup, bring on the Supercharger hate! )





Then mated it to a 3" catback (essentially made everything from the secondary runners, back) Nice project to learn from and if I were to do it I'd do so many things differently

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Nice!

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

.

Deepstriker

Thanks guys,

I know this is mainly a picture thread but a bit of background info:

The header steps from a 2.5" "downpipe" (After the secondaries) and goes into a transition to 3". Within that transition some of the 2.5" protrudes with the idea being similar to an anti-reversion chamber. Not sure if it makes a difference as I have no back-to-back data.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

This is why I hate the vibrant elbows.

Checkout the cross sectional wall thickness... My suppliers elbows are way thicker and have the same thickness the whole circumference.



Little pipe welded up today...


Weld closeup...

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Just made a couple exhaust hangers for a buddy, he wanted them to clamp on. I heated up the 304 rod with the oxy acetylene torch and hammered it flat on the anvil. We happened to have some 2.5" Al round stock in short sections kicking around so I hammered the bend into it around that.





And then today and I used all of this.



And you know, just made some custom mufflers... out of aluminum.



Yup, made those cores out of perf sheet did that a couple weeks ago.






So remember how I complain about the Dynasty we have. Yeah I'm never going to use pure tungesten in that thing again. All those welds were done with thoriated, 1/16" with a #6 cup. 120Hz, some were done at the balance of 45% that I was using to try to make the pure tungsten work, the rest were done with 60%. And zero weld prep, we didn't have a clean stainless brush in the shop so I figured using the welder to break through the AlOx was better than getting steel all up in the weld. We were also out of acetone.

Boost_addict

I never use pure tungsten after someone showed me I didn't have to. It's just easier when the arc wants to wander less. You should try turning your balance up all the way, it's more effective totally clean like that, but you'll agree it'll make it easier. You look like you're afraid to really move fast though. You shouldn't, aluminum lets you just mash the pedal and dip dip dip dip. At least once a second. Try pushing yourself. Also, don't force the filler into the puddle, just brush it against the tip of the puddle, and you'll see it'll suck in the amount it needs.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I thought I was going pretty quick. That 12" long muffler took under 10 minutes to do the seam down the length. And thats I t how fast I did al the other welds unless I was struggling with gemoetry.

Boost_addict

Personally I'd say unless you're getting a bead per second you're not going fast enough. Look for the keyhole right before it blows into a hole, that's where you want to dip before it blows into a hole. If you're not getting a keyhole without waiting forever, turn your heat up. I personally don't like the way my welds look unless I blast it and move real fast. If I don't dip on time ill blow a hole in my part to give you an idea. It makes it come out very nice and fast though.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Interesting. I'll have to try that when I have to weld these mufflers the exhaust.

Boost_addict

If you've got questions, pm me for my number. Ill help you out. I gave the guy building the blonde beefcake some tips that really accelerated his ability.

curly

iTrader: (25)

That reminds me, I really need to figure out a decent muffler for the N/A track cars around here. They keep burning up their packing with their catless flamethrowers. Custom might be the way to go. What're you using for packing?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Burns, which is surprisingly cheap.

bcrx7

iTrader: (5)

What he says! I have found the same on my end. It will make nicer welds that have really tight shapes!

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

Spec 31 Universal Pillow Kit - 15" Length

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

I delivered the civic project yesterday for a happy customer. Here are a few pics I managed to snap on my phone because the tow truck came early which i really wasnt expecting.










Coming up in a few weeks I will be doing some intercooler piping and an intake pipe for a turbo B16 CRX

nitrodann

Coming together, got some time to do a little this morning before I had to go.


Muffler tucked RIGHT up and nicely centered. Note that this is still only tacked so the welds (mostly the heat colouration around them) look patchy, thats why.


Not 110% happy with the tip so Im redoing from the muffler outlet back.
I do like how you can JUST see the muffler if you kneel, it looks very OEM.


Whats this we have here? MSM owners will recognise this manifold and heatshield?




BOO :twisted:


Off to the race ceramic coating shop tomorrow.

Dann