Leafy

iTrader: (1)

A synonym for oxidized rapidly is burns, like fire.

supercooper

Man.... im almost ashamed to admit this... but you have no idea how prepared i am for the Zombie apocalypse.... lmao
I have the full Zombie Ka-Bar collection, a Barnett Zombie crossbow, about 20 gas masks, Full Chemical suits including boots and hoods, MRE's, Survival gear, Guns out the ***... even Hornady Z-Max ammo for most of them.... lmao
If it happens, you are more than welcome to join my colony.... as long as you dont have any bite marks... hahaha



And Damn Dann.... that is some crazy good fab work... looks better than any Factory set up ive ever seen... If i ever end up down under, im gonna have to pay you for something like that... haha

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

For the titanium muffler, use stainless, then flare thr tube for a slip fit with the muffler like a bike has.

Swanky

This is what I thought I would probably do. Just have the lead up pipe to the muffler shortened and then do the rest in stainless and utilize the slip on stuff that all of the mufflers I have been looking at have.

I know that you cannot weld two kinds of metal together without asking for problems but can titanium touch steel without oxidizing? I know that if steel and aluminum have prolonged contact, they oxidize. I heard that pro bike guys use thinly sliced cork as a gasket, anyone know this to be true?

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Over a long enough time span, it will oxidize.

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

The Galvanic Potential of Titanium and Stainless steel are very close, near as makes no difference the same. That said you are unlikely to have any problems with titanium and stainless in contact with each other. Also, both titanium and stainless have very tenacious oxide layers (hence the moniker "stainless") and the oxide layers will protect against a galvanic cell forming.

So, unless you put a bunch of fresh scratches on the surface of the mating areas, lather with salt water, and hook up a battery to each side, you are unlikely to ever have problems with galvanic corrosion between Stainless and Titanium. Even if you were to do that, the rest of the car would likely corrode away first.

The biggest perpetrators in galvanic corossion are Aluminum and Magnesium, which are much more Anodic than low alloy steel, titanium, and stainless.

Any sort of non-metallic gasket should help the situation, anything non-conductive that can break up a galvanic cell will be beneficial.


Long story short - Ti in contact with Stainless will be fine

nitrodann

Some recent pics from all sorts of jobs.







Guess what this is off..?





Dann

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Having fun with the acetone in that muffler?

nitrodann

And just out of shot an air hose :P

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Most of what i make is not car related and i have a pretty shitty camera. Two reasons i don't usually post the BS i make at work. If i did, things would get boring pretty quick.

Some stuff, i'm proud of though.

Built this big SOB over the last two weeks.

Tag teamed it with stan the other fab guy.

I must say, i'm pretty proud of myself with this one. Kept it within .125 across the entire thing. Which is pretty extraordinary considering a weld at one end could warp it enough to throw the other end pretty far off.



Even painted in house.


Did 15 of these.

These ended up warping about .015" after i was done welding them. Handed them over to the machinist and somehow he scrapped them. So i'll probably be welding more. Plus they get some gussets on them(picture is 50% finished). These have to be within .010 and they get nickel plated, which i guess is .005 thick or something... So we have to account for that. Oh and the prints are in German. lol.

nitrodann

Rotator?

Erat

iTrader: (5)

That's very possible. I do know they rotate. I'll try and get a picture after the machinist fixes his fuckup and it's further along.

nitrodann

I meant are you using a rotator to do the welds? Its a very good way to get that warpage super low.

Dann

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Nope, i weld it in quarters. It's even better at keeping warping to a minimum.

Some things i use a rotater though. It's more of a pain in the *** to set up than it is to just work on welding without. I like the challenge.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Before i started cutting them up. :(

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Little project that worked well. Simple setup consisting of an iPod Touch, a Dual XGPS150A and the CMS LapTimer Pro app. Built my own bracket to hold the iPod and GPS -- it bolts between my rear view mirror and windwhield header. It worked great. Some pics:

The end of the 1/8"x3" aluminum strap is drilled to match the mirror's mount.


A couple of pictures of the finished aluminum strap. An iPod case will be riveted to one surface and the GPS will be tie-wrapped to the flat at the end.




Installed. To finish, the strap is bent towards the windshield and then a furniture "Elevator Bolt" with a foam pad is placed against the windshield to triangulate. Adjust the nuts so that the assembly is spring-loaded against the windshield and the iPod is level and square for good G-readings. Simple and sturdy.


How it looks from the driver's seat:


Here's some video/data from last weekend:

M.Adamovits

Wow, that's really cool. Wasn't aware apps like this had come this far.

You have an external gps unit? How's it connected? and where'd you get it?

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

I used a Dual XGPS150A (5Hz data):

Universal Bluetooth GPS Receiver for Today

Got it from Amazon for ~$85. Connects to the iPod/iPhone via Bluetooth.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

If you dont need iphone compatibility you can use the qstars and get 10ghz gps for the same money.

I need to make a mount like that.

M.Adamovits

Reading the apps description, you have to program courses yourself? I guess that'd be good for event like AutoX.

How well does it record a course lay out? The mapping in you videos looks really good.