The custom fabrication thread! (Post pics of stuff you have made) - Page 34 - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Fabulous Fabrication Post all your custom fabrication projects here; impress all your friends.

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Old 02-13-2014, 02:59 PM   #661
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No, the course mapping is done automatically by the app as you drive. It's really simple to use. Turn it on while sitting in the grid -- once you exceed 15mph is starts recording/mapping -- once you stop it stops as well. Pretty much hands-free.

There's also Harry's Laptimer, TrackAddict laptimer + probably numerous others I don't even know about. The apps are inexpensive enough I'll probably try several before deciding which I like best. I've only used the CMS app so far.
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Old 02-19-2014, 09:38 PM   #662
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Electric oil primer pump!





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Old 02-19-2014, 10:41 PM   #663
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Any plans on selling?
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Old 02-20-2014, 09:44 AM   #664
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If it works and if there's interest, I would look into making a few more housings. But it would cost more than other more compact options out there. You can find remote turbo oil scavenge spur gear pumps on ebay for $130.

My pump next to the ebay scavenge pump and a BMW M5 (V10) oil transfer pump for the oil pan, also a tiny Gerotor pump, kinda like some fuel pumps.

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Old 02-20-2014, 11:05 AM   #665
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What kind of pressure and flow are those BMW pumps capable of?

If you could find them for reasonable money they might be really useful for rear end and transmission coolers, as well as your pre-oiler.
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:37 PM   #666
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I do not know sorry.
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Old 03-16-2014, 02:47 AM   #667
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Last few weeks or thread relevant work thats interesting, did some exhausts and another basic NA8 turbo setup/install/tune and another NA6 turbo setup which got posted out for owner install, same **** different week.


Bryans NB8C, brand new Volvo T5 turbo, 2.5" downpipe and exhaust, long runner low mount, Works Engineering carbon intake, kept the AFM for OEM looks, Full sized front mount, RX8 injectors, 180rwhp on 7.3PSI. Starting at low boost till he gets used to it.












Local guys S13, with extend bridge ported 13b and a GT42r. We did the downpipe, the side pipe, the hotside cooler pipe and turbo cut/weld/port job, the overflow tank and a few other bits.









Some of the fab for the posted NA6 kit, just a separated gases downpipe to suit a side mount log. I've done a few like this recently and Im happy with this design.








This maxed the RX8's at 235 btw.



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Old 03-17-2014, 07:23 AM   #668
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Love the airbox cover!
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Old 03-21-2014, 09:38 PM   #669
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Just fusion welded.

This is a good exercise for controlling heat. I pulled two that were pretty different. Should have set my panel a little more accurate, but i was in a crunch.



Other than the heat marks, you can't even tell they're welded.

Should have put a scale down, these are about 1.8" long.
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Old 03-25-2014, 11:57 AM   #670
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What are they?
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Old 03-25-2014, 12:11 PM   #671
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The blueprints called them a "bellcrank".

They are the rotation point that pulls pins in and out of alignment holes on seats so it can lock into place on the rails.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:18 PM   #672
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Do you even clamp bro?




Another tight tolerance weldment.
Still gotta put the rollers on it...
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Old 03-28-2014, 02:04 AM   #673
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Not car related, but hell, I fabricated it.
After getting some insane quotes for a short section of fence, I said "**** it, I'll learn to weld."
I grabbed a Lincoln stick welder and went to work. Not terrible considering it's the first thing I've ever welded.



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Old 03-28-2014, 09:11 AM   #674
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And that is why we weld.


I made my wife a stand out of manifold scraps and TIG rod to hold a decorative plate up on a shelf. Serious wife points, no cost and it lets me have fun.
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Old 03-28-2014, 09:14 AM   #675
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Looks good. I'm surprised though you just didnt buy a couple of 4x4s and some 2x4s and make the whole thing out of wood.
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Old 03-28-2014, 10:40 AM   #676
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...and as it sits this morning, now that the cement has cured.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Looks good. I'm surprised though you just didnt buy a couple of 4x4s and some 2x4s and make the whole thing out of wood.
I didn't go that route for a few reasons:
1) I'm dumb and stubborn
2) Given the humidity and proximity to the neighbor's sprinklers, I didn't want to be replacing wooden posts in 6 years. Each of the individual panels are held in with just 4 long wood screws. When the cedar warps, it'll be easy to take them out and redo them.
3) This part is visible from the street and I wanted something a little more...intimidating. The fence is just shy of 7.5 ft tall.
4) The rust & dark wood fits the style of the house
5) It gave me an excuse to weld


The large open area is going to be filled by a set of large double doors, done in a similar style. Maybe aluminium (excuse to buy a TIG machine)?

all in all, a gigantic pain in the ***, especially pounding through 2.5ft of limestone for each post hole. But I'm proud of it.
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Old 03-28-2014, 11:25 AM   #677
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I would lag that single post to the house (try not to damage the stucco/EIFS) because even cemented in there is a lot of leverage with a door hinged on it and it might shift. Just an observation from doing many many building inspections.

Though if your confident you have enough bearing in the limestone it may not be a problem. Also TX vs Canada might be different with no freeze-thaw cycles.
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Old 03-28-2014, 12:00 PM   #678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shlammed View Post
I would lag that single post to the house (try not to damage the stucco/EIFS) because even cemented in there is a lot of leverage with a door hinged on it and it might shift. Just an observation from doing many many building inspections.

Though if your confident you have enough bearing in the limestone it may not be a problem. Also TX vs Canada might be different with no freeze-thaw cycles.
Edit*
re read

That is a bit of weight.
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Old 03-28-2014, 12:28 PM   #679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shlammed View Post
I would lag that single post to the house (try not to damage the stucco/EIFS) because even cemented in there is a lot of leverage with a door hinged on it and it might shift. Just an observation from doing many many building inspections.

Though if your confident you have enough bearing in the limestone it may not be a problem. Also TX vs Canada might be different with no freeze-thaw cycles.
Another alternative would be to put a header or arch or something to connect the tops of the posts that will be carrying the weight of the doors. Since it looks like you plan on keeping the house a while, you'll definitely want to do something to keep the doors from moving. That's a lot of leverage, even with concrete footings.
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Old 03-28-2014, 02:38 PM   #680
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erat View Post
Edit*
re read

That is a bit of weight.
I estimate that the fence weighs 400lbs+. I'm not super concerned about the left gate shifting. The right one however, gives me reason to believe that 1" steel square tubing might not be the way to go. Aluminium looks more and more promising.

Quote:
Originally Posted by krazykarl View Post
Another alternative would be to put a header or arch or something to connect the tops of the posts that will be carrying the weight of the doors. Since it looks like you plan on keeping the house a while, you'll definitely want to do something to keep the doors from moving. That's a lot of leverage, even with concrete footings.
Reading my mind. An arch is what I was planning, just not sure how to do that on the cheap. This entire thing was done with a tape measure, an angle grinder, miter saw, and my stick welder. Oh and a jackhammer to get through the limestone.

Any ideas on how to roll thick guage metal into a beautiful arch in my garage with hand tools?
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