ThePass

iTrader: (3)

Good subject for DIYers.

Interested in input from folks who are more plugged in to this than I.

Looking for a good "budget" CNC Router in the ~24x36 size. With a decent Z axis (6" would be nice). Needs to be able to cut aluminum. Open to workholding method, doesn't have to be vacuum. This will not be running production all day, just one-off stuff here and there, but being able to rely on a decent level of precision for it is important.

I've used a local CNC router a handful of times, big 48x96 thing with a massive gantry and super fine variable and digital spindle speed. It was nice. Probably spoiled me. I don't have the space or budget for something that size, and while I'd *like* 48x48, it seems price is directly related, at least in part, to gantry size so 48x48 isn't much less than something longer. So smaller it is.

I've been searching around just via google and finding stuff all the way from $2k up to the moon. In some cases some of hte small stuff seems way overpriced, but it's probably due to details that I don't know to look for. Then there's the DIY "some assembly required" type kits, and I suspect that's where the bargain to performance ratio is best, but I don't know quite enough on the topic to know what to look for when you need to pick it all out a-la-carte. I don't mind a build-it-yourself package but I do NOT want something that ends up being finicky or that takes hours and hours of fiddling with circuit boards. Should a CNC rookie be wary of those sorts of kits or is that the way to get the good bang for the buck? Before I sink more hours into looking or buying the wrong rig, anybody have a good recommendation?

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

Posting a contender. Cost is higher than I'd prefer, but if you can't get something decent for less, this might be the right ballpark.

Next Wave Automation 10024 $5000
Everything but the spindle. Looks like solid construction. 48"+ on Y axis is great.
XYZ travel: 25" x 50" x 7"
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Nex...ded-Bed/T31984

Add to that: Next Wave Automation 20145 - Water Cooled Spindle $800
2HP, 24000 RPM (I'm assuming it's variable speed though I don't see it explicitly say that), includes 1/8" and 1/4" collets.
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Nex...ded-Bed/T31984



Main downside I see is some of the end mills I've already purchased are larger than 1/4" shank, and ironically, the 2" planer that they sell has a 1/2" shank so that isn't usable with that spindle either. Not sure how restrictive that is overall.

Alternatively...
Grizzly G0894 $6000
XYZ travel: 23" x 35" x ? Doesn't mention Z travel but it looks like it's probably similar to the 7" of the Next Wave above
Spindle is included, 3HP and it takes up to 1/2" collets
Does not come with VCarve software (+$350)
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Gri...C-Router/G0894



The benefit to both of these is it appears to be an everything-you-need solution. Can similar be accomplished for less? Is one significantly better than the other?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Have you checked to see if there are any local maker spaces around you? If so they may possibly have one you can use with just being a member.


A friend of mine had his Shapeoko 3 setup at my house for a while. I know he spent countless hours twiddling with it and never got it where he wanted it. After watching that, and me dealing with cheaper DIY 3d printers, if you don;t enjoy that sort of work. It is 100% easier and cheaper long term to pay more upfront for the already done ready to rock out the box setup.

Padlock

I have been researching heavily into a CNC router table myself the last few months for prototyping reasons. I've been focusing more on the budget friendly DIY setups as I just don't have the coin for the higher grade professional machines at the moment.

The Shapeoko XXL table is a pretty popular option for the DIY enthusiast based on my research so far
Cut Area: 32"(X) x 33"(Y) x 3"(Z)
Cost: $2050
Link: https://shop.carbide3d.com/products/...31527640727613
Overall its a nice machine for the money, but the cogged belt drives need constant adjustment to maintain proper belt tension on the X&Y axis. If a belt breaks, you are waiting on limited customer service.

A new one that was just recently debuted is the Onefinity CNC.
Cut Area: 32.25" x 32.25" x 4"
Cost: Pre-order is up for $1975 right now. Expect ~$2400 ballpark for standard retail.
Link: https://www.onefinitycnc.com/product...ity-woodworker
Overall this appears at glance to be the next DIY budget level machine to get. I'm waiting out to see how the first batch of pre-orders go, and what peoples feedback is. The ease of transport, linear bearings, and ballscrew XYZ drives are a huge advantage over the Shapeoko in theory as you don't have any more belts to worry about. Rigidity is a concern I have with this design and one of the reasons I'm waiting to see a couple reviews on it before pulling the trigger. Integrated touchscreen and WIFI are a nice touch as well as long as proper service is available if issues arise.

leboeuf

iTrader: (1)

I've been looking into this for some time as well. I need an odd size (24" x 96") so my search has been focused on diy options.

The cncrouterparts option is probably too focused on rack and pinion but I think they're one of the more common self assemble options in the US.

A 4x4 linear rail setup with all of their electronics/spindle will set you back almost $8k.

I've priced out a linear rail, ballscrew x/z, r&p y, at about $4000 for movement/electronics/spindle (for a 2x8 machine); basically everything but the frame/gantry itself.

If you're willing to drop linear rails and ballscrews a much cheaper machine could be built.

Spaceman Spiff

Whether you DIY or buy whole, I'd really really recommend going with quality linear bearings at the very least. If you don't care thaaaat much about the precision you can save some money by cutting out the ball screws. but seeing big tools like this that use 80/20 rollers or bushing+rail configs really makes me cringe. Taiwan special linear bearings are so affordable these days for what you get, and the ebay market is so active, there's just no excuse anymore.

Marcus Reps on youtube has a really thorough series on his process building a (admittedly much nicer/higher spec) cnc with LinuxCNC, eBay linear rails, and some used ***** screws. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...ymFwJNMB9vUmSW

Of course there's something to be said about an easy-to-use tool to have around the shop, but I'd rather spend some more time learning a software package if the trade off is a repeatable tool I can quickly get accurate parts out of without any trial and error (that said I design/build/work with nm accurate tools for a living, so I'm obviously biased).

LeoNA

Sounds like for what you want to do a waterjet or laser would be much more ideal. You can get a lot of parts made for $2-3K or try to buddy up with someone who has equipment and see if they will help support your effort. The economy is such that there will be used machines available in the future.

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

There was one nearby, and that's where I got experience with the giant 48x96 on a few projects. They recently closed. There's supposed to be another one opening up in a different area, but they have the same major limitation that the last one had; you can only cut woods and plastics on it because it's located in the woodworking area and their air ventilation systems for wood and metal have to be separate. It's a shame because the machine itself would have no problem with aluminum. So I had several times that I made a mock up of something in wood just to check it before sending the final drawings off to a CNC that could cut the end part, and I also made a couple things from delrin, but I want to be able to cut my own final parts.

Your description of your buddy fiddling endlessly is what I want to avoid. Exactly why I'm considering spending more for a plug in and go option.

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

If it's something that can be cut from sheet, I can do that by hand for one-off stuff or if I need to make a lot of something or do it to tight tolerances we have a local waterjet shop we do a lot of work with and I just send them the files. But waterjet and/or plasma are both limited to essentially 2D shapes. The power of CNC is all in that Z axis, and as such the number of things you can make increases exponentially. But due to machine cost, machine run time, and the backlog of work that seems to be consistent with all machinists, it's neither fast or affordable to outsource CNC work. That's where my desire to do it myself arises from, and quite honestly, for what I've spent on CNC work just for bits and bobs on Hyper, I'd already be more than halfway to the cost of one these routers.

thebeerbaron

iTrader: (1)

Realistically, I think you're probably looking at near-pro level stuff - I'm guessing wildly that the 48x96 monster was a ShopBot? The maker space I used to use had several ShopBot models in their wood shop. Excellent for woodworking, but we weren't allowed to cut alu on them either. Very high spindle speeds and with alu I'm guessing you're going to be taking very light cuts. Make sure on machines like this that you get an actual 3-axis machine. Some of the woodworking stuff is "2.5 axis", which means it will cut in the 3rd axis, but only at a constant height (ie, it won't move in Z direction while cutting).

I have limited actual experience in this realm - I did use a ShopBot like you did to test tool paths and general dimensions on MDF for mocking up a part I never got around to making in metal.

You may be able to find used equipment through the manufacturer/dealer. A used pro tool might be better than a new consumer-level one, and a dealer, while having a vested interest in selling you something, may have some useful guidance.

LeoNA

I did not think you were doing 3D stuff, contouring etc. Routers typically run dry and coolant is preferable when machining aluminum. Routers also are not overly ridged and typically are designed to run higher spindle speeds. What about a group buy with a few friends on a used lower end mill, eg haas etc?