Stein

iTrader: (46)

Sorry for the very late response. Probably made in the exact same factory so I wouldn't sweat the Grizzly vs HF issue. Go with the HF. At the time there was no local HF store and I was in Springfield MO a lot for work and the Grizzly showroom/warehouse is there and the price was about the same. I've had mine for 8-10 years.

vitamin j

iTrader: (5)

Look good?

Not sure where I want the outlet to go, I'm thinking straight up and over the front so I can keep my PS and the intake behind the headlight.

Rasc

Interested in getting a copy of the file please, would have sent PM but have not yet reached the mandatory 15 posts. But getting there.

AkaZero

iTrader: (1)

Posted that awhile back In this thread.
Well I bought a syncrowave 250. Couldn't bring myself to mig a manifold after seeing all the pretty ones. And now I need to do some wiring and get an argon bottle.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Parts came back from swain yesterday.

nitrodann

downpipe..?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I'm not too happy with it. But that only has like 40 bucks worth of swain coating on it, so if I really get pissed off at it I wont be broke up at re-doing it... And not letting my dad cut it this time.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Wow, so they coated over the clamping surfaces for the bolt heads & washers? I'm wondering how that is going to hold up, especially on the turbine housing to CHRA bolts.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Not sure. Swain pretty much told me, really make sure you're done with this, if you need to weld something to it or drill a hole in it you're gonna spend a couple hours with the grinder trying to get through the coating.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Interesting.

I'd be worried about torquing a bolt down and having the coating chip out from under the head. I called them literally yesterday to ask about this and they couldn't give me a decent response. I probably got a sales guy.

How did they do masking off through holes and threaded holes? I'm guessing no coating on the sealing surfaces or inside the manifold & housing?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah no coating on the sealing surfaces or inside. They cant really coat the inside, for proper adhesion they need their media blaster to be able to hit the surface almost perpendicular. I'm not too worried about it chipping, supposedly I can hit this stuff with a BFH and not chip it.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

The manifold is sick though.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Trying to cram the EFR in a low mount is not something I want to try again, at least not with a 4" long collector. Its not even the length that is the problem, its the diameter of the compressor housing and the location of the wastegate actuator. What does worry me is that my thermal simulations of this manifold show it either trying to tuck the turbo closer to the block or just twist it forward depending on how I setup the conditions. So I might end up with turbo hit block, but only if hot. It'll only be hitting the webbing where the AC bracket mounts, which I'm sure is safe to grind out.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

You can ask Fae for some help.

DoapParts

iTrader: (13)

Good choice in color. I to am a fan of light color.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, when I was trying to make a 3.5" down pipe fit I was like "How the **** did fae do this?!" and then I was like "This must what all the sawall jokes are from." lol. I think though I'm going to need to cut the little tab off my tranny thats right near the down pipe to prevent it from rattling against it. And I'm still trying to figure out how exactly I want to do the rest of the exhaust, I have my mufflers, resonators, and I know how they'll be laid out. I just need to figure out how I want to do the mounts.

Doap, white is the only color option. And I dont care what it looks like, racecar parts.

sturovo

Has any one got a drawing for a 1.6 exhaust flange?
(I would like to compare dimensions before fail cutting my sketch.)

edit: searched more
https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...25/#post911749

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

Hell of a drawing Dimensions all over the place.

sturovo

pretty close

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

Look at the head itself and see where you can leave material. It wont add cost to cutting the flange and having a little more meat on the head flange will help both with welding and even torque over the flange once your done and tighten it down. If its laser cut the extra girth in the flange will keep warping down too.

Cut the overlay flange you just posted.