Bookmark this site!
Miata Turbo Forum - Discuss how to turbo your Mazda Miata.

Go Back   Miata Turbo Forum - Home of the turbo Mazda Miata. > Performance & Tuning > DIY Turbo Discussion

DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

Remove advertisements today by clicking here and subscribing. Only $3.50 per month.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 11-23-2008, 03:31 PM   #1
Supporting Vendor
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 288
Feedback: 3 / 100%
Default What do you want???!!!

I'm looking for new product ideas.

So far the things that have that should be out in the next couple of months or are out... High performance coil on plug ignition kits for all three generations BP miata. Dwell reducer kit for the toyota cops users without dwell adjustability, Lightweight cam gears, lower crank assembly and pulleys. ITB kit with plenum for turbo cars, and a multi-stage intake manifold for low end grunt and top end malice. I have access to every kind of manufacturing process imaginable, and I just need to know what I should do next.
__________________
Adaptronic ECU, LC-1 EGO, lightened flywheel, fresh motor swapped in, boost here we come... http://www.boundaryengineering.com Gears are on hold until we get this sorted.
TravisR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2008, 03:39 PM   #2
Lurking and Learning
 
johndoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 1,585
Feedback: 2 / 100%
Default

Well there's a certain amount of IM craze going on right now so if you could get that out quickly it might not be a bad place to start.
__________________
Black 1994;Tein Flex 9kg/6kg; RB hollow front/stock rear; 15x9 6UL, 225/45/15 RS2; MSPnP; RX7 550cc; Begi S3 w/gt2560r; Toyota COPs; 250hp/235ftlbs @~14.5psi
johndoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2008, 03:48 PM   #3
ARGHHHH MATEY
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 2,141
Feedback: 5 / 100%
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by johndoe View Post
Well there's a certain amount of IM craze going on right now so if you could get that out quickly it might not be a bad place to start.
Especially if there is actual CAD design and simulation behind it, and not some shmegma welded together from an opium fueled indian dream quest.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neogenesis2004
D3wD ur teh c00|3st
Thanks, I know
neogenesis2004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2008, 03:58 PM   #4
Metric Screwdriver
 
patsmx5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Pascagoula, MS
Posts: 3,392
Feedback: 11 / 100%
Default

I'd like to see several items. All oriented for the cheap DIY'er. Parts that get the job done at the right price.

Trigger wheel kit. Something simple and effective. Say a hub that bolts to the factory balancer and allow a common, readily available trigger wheel to bolt up to it. And of course a simple rigid bracket that allows a cheap, commonly available VR sensor to read the wheel. Would fit all 1.8 miatas.
Up to $100 Probably for the hub and bracket. Don't make them out of titanium. Cheap aluminum.

Better, possibly, a trigger wheel that would replace the factory behind-the-harmonic-balancer trigger wheel in favor of a 36-1 or 60-2 setup. One that could read the factory mounted sensor. Super easy to install and reading the factory sensor and utilizing the factory mounting brackets gives this option an awesome get-ur-done vs. cost ratio. Oh, would I buy one. And I have a trigger wheel setup already.
Up to $50. If I drew up the design on paper I could get a one off water jetted at my home town for about 50.

Intake manifold, but it sounds like you're working on that. One that proves not to starve/overfeed any cylinders would make it stand out more than it being 2.2 pounds lighter than the stock piece or shiny.
No idea, but nobody's gonna buy a $800 manifold. So don't get carried away.

Traction bars. Something that helps with wheel hop basically. Most miatas are plagued with it and there aren't any solutions to it. There's a few designs that would possibly solve the issue. One would be system that mounts to the outer end of the A arms and then comes forward an inward and hinges to the sub frame area. Might hurt ground clearance a spec though, but if it proved to kill wheel hope and make launching more predictable, it would be well worth it. My experience shows that the factory suspension allows the tires to move forward over 1.5".
200-300 for these, depending on how well they worked. If there was a small test batch sold cheaper I'd happly be a geany pig.

Or another design would fasten to the outer end of the A arms and then triangulate back to the center of the diff subframe assembly. Wouldn't be as good as the first method above, but wouldn't hurt ground clearance then.

All of that is stuff that's not available right now. If you made the part, it would be the only one people had to choose from. Zero competition.

Cheap 1.8 turbo manifolds. I'm not sure your looking to make stuff like this, but if you released a $400 weld ell 4:1 tubular manifold everybody would stand in line to buy one. Or even a less expensive "kit" with all the parts pre cut so that it's a weld-it-yourself affair. Have the parts cut for the collector so that it just has to be welded up. Might not target everyone though.

Parts to retrofit 11" VW Corrado brake rotors to the front. There's a thread going on about this right now. People even posted the specs on the parts and even the CAD files. Just need someone to step up and have the parts produced and tested.
__________________
The surface pressure of the Sun is 340 billion times that of the Earth's. Winds on Neptune have been measured up to 4,620 mph at temperatures of -360*F.
Suncharged and Neptunecooled 99' FTW.

Last edited by patsmx5; 11-23-2008 at 04:18 PM.
patsmx5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2008, 04:02 PM   #5
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 314
Feedback: 0 / 0%
Default

a CHEAP intercooler kit for the 1.8.
__________________
1994 M-Edition - DIY GT2560 Turbo install running 6 psi - Parallel MS install with LC1 - Megan Coilovers - Flyin Miata sway bars
Frustration level * 4/10 - Fuck heatsoak.
RESPECT THE SHOE RULE
jobambo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2008, 04:07 PM   #6
Supporting Vendor
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 288
Feedback: 3 / 100%
Default

I'm listening, put the price you'd pay for something like this if I were to make it. My biggest problem is whatever I engineer usaully gets taken to a ridiculous level of refinement, which is expensive, If i know how much you will pay, then I know what I have to work with.
__________________
Adaptronic ECU, LC-1 EGO, lightened flywheel, fresh motor swapped in, boost here we come... http://www.boundaryengineering.com Gears are on hold until we get this sorted.
TravisR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2008, 04:13 PM   #7
Member
 
wes65's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 935
Feedback: 5 / 100%
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
.....Traction bars. Something that helps with wheel hop basically. Most miatas are plagued with it and there aren't any solutions to it. There's a few designs that would possibly solve the issue. One would be system that mounts to the outer end of the A arms and then comes forward an inward and hinges to the sub frame area. Might hurt ground clearance a spec though, but if it proved to kill wheel hope and make launching more predictable, it would be well worth it. My experience shows that the factory suspension allows the tires to move forward over 1.5".

Or another design would fasten to the outer end of the A arms and then triangulate back to the center of the diff subframe assembly. Wouldn't be as good as the first method above, but wouldn't hurt ground clearance then.
.......

Parts to retrofit 11" VW Corrado brake rotors to the front. There's a thread going on about this right now. People even posted the specs on the parts and even the CAD files. Just need someone to step up and have the parts produced and tested.

These are things i would also be interested. Especially the traction bars.
__________________
Anybody can BUY a fast car.
Red '95, Kosei K1's 15x7, MSPNP, 550cc's, BEGi S1,
GT2860rs, Hard Dog Hard Core Hard Top Double Diagonal,
AEM UEGO, eBay 21x5.5x2.5 Intercooler. Exhaust cutout.
wes65 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2008, 04:13 PM   #8
Lurking and Learning
 
johndoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 1,585
Feedback: 2 / 100%
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jobambo View Post
a CHEAP intercooler kit for the 1.8.
ebay for that. Won't get much cheaper.
__________________
Black 1994;Tein Flex 9kg/6kg; RB hollow front/stock rear; 15x9 6UL, 225/45/15 RS2; MSPnP; RX7 550cc; Begi S3 w/gt2560r; Toyota COPs; 250hp/235ftlbs @~14.5psi
johndoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2008, 04:14 PM   #9
Member
 
wes65's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 935
Feedback: 5 / 100%
Default

A Turbo II trany adapter kit. Everything that a person would need to adapt a TII trany to their miata.
__________________
Anybody can BUY a fast car.
Red '95, Kosei K1's 15x7, MSPNP, 550cc's, BEGi S1,
GT2860rs, Hard Dog Hard Core Hard Top Double Diagonal,
AEM UEGO, eBay 21x5.5x2.5 Intercooler. Exhaust cutout.
wes65 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2008, 04:26 PM   #10
Metric Screwdriver
 
patsmx5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Pascagoula, MS
Posts: 3,392
Feedback: 11 / 100%
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TravisR View Post
I'm listening, put the price you'd pay for something like this if I were to make it. My biggest problem is whatever I engineer usaully gets taken to a ridiculous level of refinement, which is expensive, If i know how much you will pay, then I know what I have to work with.
That's the "problem" in a sense. Nothing wrong with making good parts, don't get me wrong. It's getting carried away with them and driving the cost up that ruins it.

For example, you could have a CNC lathe make the hubs from some aluminum round stock. Tolerances on this part are not exacting, so it should be pretty easy to make using any CNC lathe. Have it turned to size, cut off, then drop it in a mill w/ a dividing head and drill 4 holes or CNC them.

Or, you could insist on using some forged steel that cost more and drives the price of machining up to make it stronger, and drill lots of lightening holes in it to reduce weight, and then have them powder coated so they don't rust. Now you've got a $200 hub. Nobody will buy it. We'd all rather buy the $50 aluminum one that worked just as good.

The idea here is to make a good part that gets the job done without getting carried away. A fine example of getting carried away would be those cam timing kits you're working on. They're neat, and pretty, and all that. But the HP/dollar ratio on those items sucks, and it's not fixing a problem. Your target audience on those parts is small, and for the most part, not located on this forum. Where as a trigger wheel setup has appeal on several levels. (better resolution and accuracy, no leaky CAS, no failing CAS, CAS's are expensive to replace new, etc)
__________________
The surface pressure of the Sun is 340 billion times that of the Earth's. Winds on Neptune have been measured up to 4,620 mph at temperatures of -360*F.
Suncharged and Neptunecooled 99' FTW.
patsmx5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2008, 04:37 PM   #11
Freeway Racer
 
JayL's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 302
Feedback: 2 / 100%
Default

How about an undertray?
JayL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2008, 08:31 PM   #12
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 314
Feedback: 0 / 0%
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by johndoe View Post
ebay for that. Won't get much cheaper.
Plug and play please
__________________
1994 M-Edition - DIY GT2560 Turbo install running 6 psi - Parallel MS install with LC1 - Megan Coilovers - Flyin Miata sway bars
Frustration level * 4/10 - Fuck heatsoak.
RESPECT THE SHOE RULE
jobambo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2008, 08:46 PM   #13
Elite Member
 
elesjuan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Overland Park, Kansas
Posts: 1,917
Feedback: 8 / 100%
Default

How about a bell housing that'll let me use the OEM Miata starter with my Tremec TKO600 5 speed and retain the PPF? You realize that transmission will take ~ 600 foot pounds of torque? Something tells me my little 1.8 won't EVER break that..

GOOD turbo cams for 1.8?

and I second Pat on the VW Rotors
__________________

1993 ZX6R | 1995 Miata 13CSP | 2000 Protege ES | 2006 MazdaSpeed6 GT
Please allow me to Illustrate Absurd by being Absurd.
elesjuan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2008, 08:57 PM   #14
1.6 diff of fury!!!
 
bryantaylor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: jacksonville, fl
Posts: 1,621
Feedback: 5 / 100%
Default

i want you to want me
__________________
90 miata - T3, 38mm external wastegate, starion front mount, megaquirt, 460s
95 Lincoln Mark VIII
06 GSX-R 600
Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
gay guys buy miatas and gay men are still men...
bryantaylor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2008, 10:36 PM   #15
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: temple
Posts: 112
Feedback: 0 / 0%
Default

I need you to need me
__________________
Mods: Sr20 t25, hks man., alum. radiator, autopwr rollbar, ebay intercooler/pipes, turboxs rfl, xtd 6 puck, 3" fartcan exhaust, comp mm's,
Turbo_4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2008, 11:34 PM   #16
Special Service Tool
 
m2cupcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 4,229
Feedback: 3 / 100%
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wes65 View Post
A Turbo II trany adapter kit. Everything that a person would need to adapt a TII trany to their miata.
I wonder if the demand for this swap hasn't died with the availability of the six speed. There'd still be lots of work involved with the swap even with a ready made plate.
__________________
| 90 Miata | 302rwhp @ 6450rpm | 281rwftlbs @ 4800rpm | FE-dohc 2.0L | T3/T04e - Stage3/48AR - 50trim/60AR | FM 1.6 LINK ECU with PLink & Palm M500
m2cupcar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2008, 12:10 AM   #17
Supporting Vendor
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 288
Feedback: 3 / 100%
Default

I think the brake kit and the traction bars sound like something I could do quickly. Is anyone somewhere near sunnyvilleallyear long who could do some serious drag launches? I have a feeling my conditions for axle snapping grip won't come a round until next summer. Someone who is experienced in drag racing would make an even better tester. The newbs are going to blow their tires off regardless.


Keep the ideas coming...
__________________
Adaptronic ECU, LC-1 EGO, lightened flywheel, fresh motor swapped in, boost here we come... http://www.boundaryengineering.com Gears are on hold until we get this sorted.
TravisR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2008, 03:43 PM   #18
Discounts on De-NOOBing!
 
samnavy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 3,156
Feedback: 4 / 100%
Default

There are not enough production manifold/DP's right now.
Bell and ETD are the only ones I know of in production on tubular manifolds, but ETD does not make a DP for it. I don't know what the time-to-ship for either company is though. Tim has been working on Absurdflow production... maybe.

I know that a lot of the R&D costs in designing these products is to make them compatible with all years of car, they have to be easily shipped, easily installed... When it comes time for me to actually buy one, I'm probably going to end up simply purchasing a manifold, and having a local speed-shop fab me up a DP and exhaust. Currently, the only "production" tubular mani and full 3" turboback is Bell's S4 w/3" option and the Enthuza... and it's $1900.
__________________
Looking to buy a '99 and a shit-ton or parts to stick on it.
WTB: Begi 1.8 S4 Manifold+DP, GT2560, 3" catback, Parallel Megasquirt for '99, ACT XT, Godspeed/Mishimoto Radiator, penis enlargement... I've got Paypal if you've got a deal!
samnavy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2008, 04:51 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: ABQ, NM
Posts: 983
Feedback: 1 / 100%
Default

I like the traction bar idea, unless it's designed in a way that reduced the roadcourse potential of my car. I'm in for the stated price range.
BenR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2008, 05:46 PM   #20
I'm special! Yeah!
 
TurboTim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chesterfield, NJ
Posts: 1,682
Feedback: 3 / 100%
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
There are not enough production manifold/DP's right now.
Bell and ETD are the only ones I know of in production on tubular manifolds, but ETD does not make a DP for it. I don't know what the time-to-ship for either company is though. Tim has been working on Absurdflow production... maybe.

I know that a lot of the R&D costs in designing these products is to make them compatible with all years of car, they have to be easily shipped, easily installed... When it comes time for me to actually buy one, I'm probably going to end up simply purchasing a manifold, and having a local speed-shop fab me up a DP and exhaust. Currently, the only "production" tubular mani and full 3" turboback is Bell's S4 w/3" option and the Enthuza... and it's $1900.

I'll build a manifold for whomever wants one. I don't usually keep them sitting on a shelf though...it'll take about 2 weeks to do one.

Actually have a schedule 10 stainles manifold done, except for the head flange, which I'd leave up to the buyer to choose which material they want for that piece.

Every time Paul dyno's his car I get 4-5 inquiries about the manifold. No buyers though. I'm expensive I guess.

Due to the economy I'm off every Friday. I will probably steal Artie's car and jig up the turboback so I too can provide a complete option for you Sam.

I like this tread.

Subscribe.
__________________
A Fabricator at Shore Motorsports | Design Engineer at Jesel Valvetrain | '92 A-package @ 185k miles | 1.8 from a '94 | 3.90 torsen from a '99 | AEM EMS | Custom TwinTurbo by me/Shore Motorsports | Custom Absurdflow 3" stainless exhaust by me/Shore Motorsports | Absurdflow intercooler and intake manifold | Tein suspension | Kosei K1/Toyo T1R
TurboTim is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:13 AM.

Debt Consolidation | Advertising | Credit Cards | Bad Credit Loan | Bankruptcy

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.2.0