Anyone Using The BEGI Shanghai Turbo Systems
05-26-2009, 11:10 PM
#1
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Anyone Using The BEGI Shanghai Turbo Systems
I am thinking of getting the BEGI Shanghai Turbo System for my 1992 miata with a 1.6l engine. I am wanting to know what some of you are running. I need to know if I would need to upgrade to get the megasquirt or is the kit good as is. I dont have a whole lot of money to spend but also dont want to be stuipid and not get something I should and blow up my engine. So if anyone has this kit on their car will you give me your opinion if you like it or not and what all you have added to it. Thank yall so much for your help.
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05-26-2009, 11:14 PM
#2
It doesn't sound like you are really asking about the quality of the kit, but more so about the engine management. Search on people using the S-kit, "Bandaids", and obviously megasquirt. Personally, I think bandaids cost as much as a megasquirt, so I think its an easy choice, but that's just me.
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05-28-2009, 04:24 PM
#3
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stop posting shitty-*** threads about how you don't want to do any of your own damn research
Last edited by y8s; 06-16-2009 at 04:33 PM. Reason: font too big. hertz eyez.
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05-29-2009, 10:34 AM
#7
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its all the same as any other BEGi kit; it's just the turbo that's different, so yes we need to see how the turbos hold up. Otherwise, there's nothing special about it.
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05-29-2009, 12:28 PM
#10
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If I had a peice of **** rust bucket of a miata that was stripped down, bare-bones style and it was all about go-fast for cheap, I'd slap the shanghai on in a heart beat... oh wait that is what I have, I just went with the Greddy because the Shanghai wasn't around back when I turbo'd. Honestly, the Shanghai IMO is a sweet deal for entry level boost. Better than the Greddy and just like the Greddy, anything that is sub-par can eventually be swapped out/upgraded. Barring real- world long term reviews from forum members to prove or deny the Shanghai's longevity, this kit looks brilliant.
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05-29-2009, 06:04 PM
#12
I seen the turbo on the members car last summer. It looked good, and he said it worked well. And this is the guy that installs them all day long.
FMU or MS????? Are capable of tunning it yourself? IF not ...............Go afpr. It is kinda full proof. But you are limited by timing retard at some point.
But literally how much hp you going to run? OR how much do you have and plan on spending is a major factor. If you have a endless budget go for the stars and have someone tune it.
But with MS you will be continually tuning. And the temp correction on the one I had SUCKED> But the car ran like a RABID APE! and it worked well if you where willing to keep up with it. All the time in the winter.
Now in the summer, MS was sweet and awsome. I LOVED it. Just not on cold to hot winter weather in Texas.
Keep in mind i didn't have any dyno time.
But for daily drivers, I like the fmu for simplicity.
FInal say...... If you plan on hiting 220-250 hp go some sort of electronic management.
And For the price you can build a ms, You can't beat it for the money.
If going bandaids. Try to get used ones. New ones cost about the same a MS. But used are very reasonable and will always sell for what you paid.
FMU or MS????? Are capable of tunning it yourself? IF not ...............Go afpr. It is kinda full proof. But you are limited by timing retard at some point.
But literally how much hp you going to run? OR how much do you have and plan on spending is a major factor. If you have a endless budget go for the stars and have someone tune it.
But with MS you will be continually tuning. And the temp correction on the one I had SUCKED> But the car ran like a RABID APE! and it worked well if you where willing to keep up with it. All the time in the winter.
Now in the summer, MS was sweet and awsome. I LOVED it. Just not on cold to hot winter weather in Texas.
Keep in mind i didn't have any dyno time.
But for daily drivers, I like the fmu for simplicity.
FInal say...... If you plan on hiting 220-250 hp go some sort of electronic management.
And For the price you can build a ms, You can't beat it for the money.
If going bandaids. Try to get used ones. New ones cost about the same a MS. But used are very reasonable and will always sell for what you paid.
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06-17-2009, 04:35 PM
#14
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You're still limited by the stock injectors with the voodoo. Use the FMU if you have an NA body style car, for low boost. Otherwise, the most cost effective solution is the MegaSquirt.
Stephanie
Stephanie
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06-29-2009, 01:39 AM
#16
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The BEGi FMU has the added advantage of having an adjustable ratio (of increase in fuel pressure vs boost), and when (at what vacuum/boost pressure) it starts increasing fuel pressure can aslo be adjusted
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06-29-2009, 02:33 AM
#17
Did you read the FAQ in the DIY section? If you didn't, then you REALLY need to. It gives you a base level of information to be able to wrap your hands around this thing.
When you boost an engine (either turbocharging or supercharging) you must give the engine more fuel to compensate for more air, and you must do some sort of manipulation of the timing curve to compensate for the increased heat in the air due to it being compressed. The heated air is more prone to detonation, so typically, timing must be retarded over what the stock engine computer is going to give you on it's mostly fixed timing MAP... typically. And always when using bandaids.
The BEGi fuel pressure regulator is for fuel.
The MSD timing box is for timing.
These items do completely different things.
Your year Miata uses a return-style fuel system. The fuel pump (in the tank) circulates fuel through the fuel rail (on the engine) and back to the tank. There is a small device mounted to the fuel rail that keeps pressure in the rail constant (stock FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR, FPR). Any fuel the engine doesn't use as it's passed through the rail is sent back to the tank. The BEGi AFPR (ADJUSTABLE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR) is mounted ON THE FUEL RETURN LINE to the tank, and the stock FPR on the rail is maintained. You hook a vaccum line up to the AFPR, and as boost comes up, a small diaghram in the AFPR restricts fuel flow back to the tank. This increases fuel pressure in the rail. If you have more pressure in the rail, you will get more fuel in the engine with the same FUEL INJECTOR PULSE WIDTH (the amount of time the fuel injector is open and squirting fuel into the cylinder). The stock FUEL PUMP will only give you about 80psi of fuel rail pressure, which is why people usually swap out to a higher flowing Walbro 190. This is a cheap and easy mechanical way to get more fuel without electrically modifying the injector pulse width to be longer which requires an aftermarket ECU... we call these mechanical devices and the other electronic devices like the MSD or Bipes or O2clamp, BANDAIDS. They "bandaid" the stock engine computer to get the desired fuel and timing correction.
The MSD box will pull a few degrees of timing (I think it max's at 4*) based on RPM and boost. "Timing" is when the spark plug fires. You would think that the spark plug should fire when the piston is at the top of the cylinder... but it doesn't. If that were the case, the flame from the explosion of fuel/air would be chasing the piston down the cylinder instead of pushing it. You want the spark to go off while the piston is still on the way up, so that cylinder pressure is max'd out when the piston does get to the top, and all the pressure pushes the piston back down (kinda). Timing is "timed", ie, the spark is set off based on how far the crankshaft must still turn until the piston is at the top TDC (top dead center). For example, if the spark is currently going off when the crankshaft still has 10* to go before the piston is at the top, and I want to ADVANCE timing, I will set the timing to 11*, and the spark will go off a bit sooner. Retarding timing means the spark will go off later. I believe the stock Miata timing MAP has something like 25*-30* of spark advance at very high RPM. THIS IS TOO MUCH FOR THE VERY HOT INTAKE TEMPS OF BOOSTED APPLICATIONS. If timing is advanced too much and the air is too hot, when the spark goes off, the pressure of the explosion will be too great, and it will start to push the piston back down while it's still coming up... this is called "knock" or "detonation". And this is a very simplistic explanation of how this all happens. The MSD box will retard timing when under boost.
You now need to research how a BIPES device works, and how it's a better timing "retarder" than the MSD box and report back so I know you actually did some homework yourself.
And you still haven't put anything in your signature... please help out the forum! Click USER CP - EDIT SIGNATURE and put short list of you car/year/mods/etc...
When you boost an engine (either turbocharging or supercharging) you must give the engine more fuel to compensate for more air, and you must do some sort of manipulation of the timing curve to compensate for the increased heat in the air due to it being compressed. The heated air is more prone to detonation, so typically, timing must be retarded over what the stock engine computer is going to give you on it's mostly fixed timing MAP... typically. And always when using bandaids.
The BEGi fuel pressure regulator is for fuel.
The MSD timing box is for timing.
These items do completely different things.
Your year Miata uses a return-style fuel system. The fuel pump (in the tank) circulates fuel through the fuel rail (on the engine) and back to the tank. There is a small device mounted to the fuel rail that keeps pressure in the rail constant (stock FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR, FPR). Any fuel the engine doesn't use as it's passed through the rail is sent back to the tank. The BEGi AFPR (ADJUSTABLE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR) is mounted ON THE FUEL RETURN LINE to the tank, and the stock FPR on the rail is maintained. You hook a vaccum line up to the AFPR, and as boost comes up, a small diaghram in the AFPR restricts fuel flow back to the tank. This increases fuel pressure in the rail. If you have more pressure in the rail, you will get more fuel in the engine with the same FUEL INJECTOR PULSE WIDTH (the amount of time the fuel injector is open and squirting fuel into the cylinder). The stock FUEL PUMP will only give you about 80psi of fuel rail pressure, which is why people usually swap out to a higher flowing Walbro 190. This is a cheap and easy mechanical way to get more fuel without electrically modifying the injector pulse width to be longer which requires an aftermarket ECU... we call these mechanical devices and the other electronic devices like the MSD or Bipes or O2clamp, BANDAIDS. They "bandaid" the stock engine computer to get the desired fuel and timing correction.
The MSD box will pull a few degrees of timing (I think it max's at 4*) based on RPM and boost. "Timing" is when the spark plug fires. You would think that the spark plug should fire when the piston is at the top of the cylinder... but it doesn't. If that were the case, the flame from the explosion of fuel/air would be chasing the piston down the cylinder instead of pushing it. You want the spark to go off while the piston is still on the way up, so that cylinder pressure is max'd out when the piston does get to the top, and all the pressure pushes the piston back down (kinda). Timing is "timed", ie, the spark is set off based on how far the crankshaft must still turn until the piston is at the top TDC (top dead center). For example, if the spark is currently going off when the crankshaft still has 10* to go before the piston is at the top, and I want to ADVANCE timing, I will set the timing to 11*, and the spark will go off a bit sooner. Retarding timing means the spark will go off later. I believe the stock Miata timing MAP has something like 25*-30* of spark advance at very high RPM. THIS IS TOO MUCH FOR THE VERY HOT INTAKE TEMPS OF BOOSTED APPLICATIONS. If timing is advanced too much and the air is too hot, when the spark goes off, the pressure of the explosion will be too great, and it will start to push the piston back down while it's still coming up... this is called "knock" or "detonation". And this is a very simplistic explanation of how this all happens. The MSD box will retard timing when under boost.
You now need to research how a BIPES device works, and how it's a better timing "retarder" than the MSD box and report back so I know you actually did some homework yourself.
And you still haven't put anything in your signature... please help out the forum! Click USER CP - EDIT SIGNATURE and put short list of you car/year/mods/etc...
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07-02-2009, 03:36 PM
#18
Thanks for the explanation, very simple to understand.
The Shanghai kit I believe only comes with the rising rate fpr, not the bipes. This kit is sold as a "turn key" kit, is it possible to run it without the BIPES on 5-6 psi? It almost sounds like if you want a safe kit you should just opt out of the fpr and go straight for MS.
The Shanghai kit I believe only comes with the rising rate fpr, not the bipes. This kit is sold as a "turn key" kit, is it possible to run it without the BIPES on 5-6 psi? It almost sounds like if you want a safe kit you should just opt out of the fpr and go straight for MS.
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07-02-2009, 03:39 PM
#19
Thanks for the explanation, very simple to understand.
The Shanghai kit I believe only comes with the rising rate fpr, not the bipes. This kit is sold as a "turn key" kit, is it possible to run it without the BIPES on 5-6 psi? It almost sounds like if you want a safe kit you should just opt out of the fpr and go straight for MS.
The Shanghai kit I believe only comes with the rising rate fpr, not the bipes. This kit is sold as a "turn key" kit, is it possible to run it without the BIPES on 5-6 psi? It almost sounds like if you want a safe kit you should just opt out of the fpr and go straight for MS.
At least then you have the headroom to pick up larger injectors and push for bigger goals later.
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