What's the best budget fuel system upgrade?
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Baltimore; States
Posts: 190
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What's the best budget fuel system upgrade?
'95 (obd1) 1.8l miata.
It currently has stock oem fpr, stock fuel pump, stock fuel rail, lines, etc..
I just got megasquirt finally! I'm looking for the best, yet low cost choice for a fuel system to run my boosted miata up to stock internals capacity. 220-240whp.
Kind of like a flyin miata 2 turbo kit power goals.
From what i understand; please correct me if I'm wrong, but i have come up with 2 choices to go with so far to meet my goals. I am wanting to ask you guys with more experience, which way is better for me or what else options do i have.
1) upgrade to a 255lph walboro fuel pump $90 + run rx8 yellow 420cc injectors $60
2) buy 550cc injectors from a reputable brand. Such as the ones flyin miata uses in their fm2 turbo kit. Although that is pretty expensive.
But i am also wanting to ask this because i want to make sure i am right with not needing a upgraded fmu or anything with these 2 options.
What's the best choice within 250-300$?
I would like to run e85 in the future too but it's not super important.
Thanks in advance.
It currently has stock oem fpr, stock fuel pump, stock fuel rail, lines, etc..
I just got megasquirt finally! I'm looking for the best, yet low cost choice for a fuel system to run my boosted miata up to stock internals capacity. 220-240whp.
Kind of like a flyin miata 2 turbo kit power goals.
From what i understand; please correct me if I'm wrong, but i have come up with 2 choices to go with so far to meet my goals. I am wanting to ask you guys with more experience, which way is better for me or what else options do i have.
1) upgrade to a 255lph walboro fuel pump $90 + run rx8 yellow 420cc injectors $60
2) buy 550cc injectors from a reputable brand. Such as the ones flyin miata uses in their fm2 turbo kit. Although that is pretty expensive.
But i am also wanting to ask this because i want to make sure i am right with not needing a upgraded fmu or anything with these 2 options.
What's the best choice within 250-300$?
I would like to run e85 in the future too but it's not super important.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Cpt. Slow
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,175
Total Cats: 1,129
$320, 630cc:
Products ? Flow Force Injectors
That's really all you need to change. Your stock bump is merely maintaining the stock FPR's set 43.5psi, no more, no less. Back in the days of adjustable fuel pressure regulators, we'd be running up to 120psi of fuel pressure as boost increases rather than increase injector size, so we always suggested different fuel pumps. For 220-240, you only need injectors. If the stock pump fails, that's a great opportunity to upgrade so future increases in power don't require a new pump.
Products ? Flow Force Injectors
That's really all you need to change. Your stock bump is merely maintaining the stock FPR's set 43.5psi, no more, no less. Back in the days of adjustable fuel pressure regulators, we'd be running up to 120psi of fuel pressure as boost increases rather than increase injector size, so we always suggested different fuel pumps. For 220-240, you only need injectors. If the stock pump fails, that's a great opportunity to upgrade so future increases in power don't require a new pump.
#8
I have Fuel Injector Developments, a different company from Injector Dynamics. My tuner runs this company's injectors in all his 1000+ HP cars so he happily suggested them to me.
www.fuelinjectordevelopment.com/1000.html
www.fuelinjectordevelopment.com/1000.html
#12
You either pay the money for known good injectors and pump, or run trash and remember that you chose it this way. Fuel system and ecu affect the driveability of the car. Every. Single. Day.
So every single time you get in your car to drive it, your trash choices will remind you that you made a bad decision.
So every single time you get in your car to drive it, your trash choices will remind you that you made a bad decision.
#14
Bottom line is this: forget option 1 and option 2. Re-think your plan and stop being so cheap. You'll be happy in the end.
I disagree with curly about pumps. I've seen so many of them on their way out/failing that I basically tell everyone to replace theirs. These cars are old. Really old. So old that even a wally 255 is considered a really old non-ethanol compatible pump, even if they seem to hold up ok with ethanol. Otherwise yeah FF is probably the cheapest injector I'd run, at $320, and dw200 is only like 20 bux more than a wally.
I disagree with curly about pumps. I've seen so many of them on their way out/failing that I basically tell everyone to replace theirs. These cars are old. Really old. So old that even a wally 255 is considered a really old non-ethanol compatible pump, even if they seem to hold up ok with ethanol. Otherwise yeah FF is probably the cheapest injector I'd run, at $320, and dw200 is only like 20 bux more than a wally.
#16
I don't mind spending the extra money (I bought a MS3Pro but will be switching to something else in a few weeks). I wouldn't consider the FID's a run of the mill cheap ebay brand as I've read a good amount of reviews. With the price difference, I don't expect them to be an ID1000 replacement but rather a cheaper alternative. Are the FIDs that much worse than FF and ID's that they shouldn't be purchased? I know they are way more unknown than the aforementioned but that shouldn't be a reason to avoid.
My build itself I wouldn't consider too cheap to be called a decent budget build (except for possibly the injectors).
- To be installed MaxxECU Race Model w/ a 4.2 wideband sensor
- Kraken Kit
- 2554r (which I will replace in the distance future)
- Running egr sensors
- E85 (not really needed but why not)
- Qmax Coolant reroute w/ proper HG
- Crappy oem replacement radiator w/ 12" SPAL fan. If I have any cooling issues, I will bite the bullet on a SM Crossflow radiator
My build itself I wouldn't consider too cheap to be called a decent budget build (except for possibly the injectors).
- To be installed MaxxECU Race Model w/ a 4.2 wideband sensor
- Kraken Kit
- 2554r (which I will replace in the distance future)
- Running egr sensors
- E85 (not really needed but why not)
- Qmax Coolant reroute w/ proper HG
- Crappy oem replacement radiator w/ 12" SPAL fan. If I have any cooling issues, I will bite the bullet on a SM Crossflow radiator
#17
I know they are way more unknown than the aforementioned but that shouldn't be a reason to avoid.
With precision parts that are responsible for controlling/fueling an internally combustion engine, what you're paying for is the knowns. When you buy garrett or borgwarner, you're paying for the knowns. The fact that they will give you what they said they would. Why are china turbo's cheap? Because you're paying for a cat in a bag. Do they "work"? Sure. But to then compare them to a known brand using that logic is just plain stupid. Injectors is the same.
So if you're buying a set of injectors with the only "known" being a couple guys saying "it worked, and my car didn't blow up" that's just plain hilarious.
Seems like facts/logic/reason is a dying trend.
These are the same people that are idling at 12afr, car bucks and stumbles, but BRO IT MADE A BUNCH OF PEAK POWER SO THEY'RE TOTES LEGIT BRO
PS: don't take this personal. I'm not attacking you. I'm simply disgusted with seeing the insane trend of comparing crap to awesomeness and justifying crap cause it hasn't blown up someone's car. Seeing someone put together a properly built miata because they apply logic and understand why better parts cost more is refreshing, cause it's rare.
IF ID's cost $200, some schmoe tomorrow would be introducing another injector that costs $20. It literally never ends.
#18
Don't worry, I don't take what you say personal at all. You're one of the most knowledgeable people on this forum.
I understand what you say, don't trust random people as their version of "works well" can be pretty underwhelming compared to what you guys expect. I've seen a car with these idle within 5-10rpm so very smooth idle (albeit running with the MaxxECU as well so not really a apple to apple comparison). I've been told they flow well with a consistent spray pattern (but what manufacturer wouldn't say good things about their own product). The main reason I went with these injectors was simply trusting my tuner and the shop he works for. They have a long history of pushing out well tuned cars for both daily driving and drag racing.
I understand what you say, don't trust random people as their version of "works well" can be pretty underwhelming compared to what you guys expect. I've seen a car with these idle within 5-10rpm so very smooth idle (albeit running with the MaxxECU as well so not really a apple to apple comparison). I've been told they flow well with a consistent spray pattern (but what manufacturer wouldn't say good things about their own product). The main reason I went with these injectors was simply trusting my tuner and the shop he works for. They have a long history of pushing out well tuned cars for both daily driving and drag racing.