tronik

iTrader: (5)

I dunno man - a buddy of mine did this, and i have to say, I didn't like the results. If you can get an hvlp gun and thin it out, and spray it, you might be able to get a decent result, assuming you have a porter cable and a couple hundred in cutting and buffing products.
rolling it, you are going to see brush marks unless you are incredibly dedicated like the OP was. Even then, I'm not so sure you would not be better off taking some dupont single stage to your local maaco equivalent and paying $400 to have them spray for you.

Bear in mind i am not some hater. I have a gallon of this stuff in my garage. I abandoned the idea when I saw the results in person. Aussie's may look good, but chances are that your job will look more like my buddies than aussies.

Fergus

Yeah I've seen some horrible pics and read some deadly storys out there on this
I'm still gonna go ahead with it though, I think I can get it down
I don't think anyones tried the 'Perfection' paint, at least I haven't read of anyone using it and it's suppose to be excellent.
Orange peal, bubbles, paint not bonding, bubbles, blurs, no gloss, paint fading, bubbles.....it's all coming my way soon

Fergus

Ah crap, they don't have the Perfection in the colour I want.
They have it in their 'Toplac' paint but not the Perfection.
There's nothing about using that silicone alkyd enamel paint.

rjayd2

does anyone know if you can mix two brightside colors?
I'm thinking about ordering some red and black, as i want a darker red
I'm afraid it will come out purple.

Oh well, guess i'll give it a shot.

Jike Spingleton

wondering what the general consensus is on this now? I am thinking of doing a fresh coat of white over my already white car. I am wondering if this is an effective, low cost solution for me. I just did a ton of motor work on my car and the whole front of the car has engine grease embedded into the paint. I also have a few dings that have rusted that I want to fix and paint over.

Another idea I had was to paint the windshield surround black, which i would definitely do at the same time as my roll job.

I am a perfectionist, and a pretty good painter (at least the walls in my apartment seem to think so) ... my concern is with the required detailing, which i have no experience with whatsoever.

Can anyone chime in with some more info/pictures of successful/failed jobs? Nobody's pics are showing for me except for the OP and the guy who did steel gray. I'd really like to see some closeups and whatnot of how this turns out.


Thanks.

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

go to the junk yard and grab a $20 fender off of some random car. paint it and get an idea what your skills can produce. we have guys that have gotten fantastic results and others that have gotten terrible results. at the end of the day it all comes down to the person doing the work.

I on the other hand intend to paint my next car this way... because I won't give a damn how it looks anyways.

Fergus

If I was to go buy a compressor in order to spraypaint etc, does anyone know what size/power compressor I'd need to get ?

hrk

iTrader: (6)

Rolling is fine, Just takes quite long time to finish.
Just did my car with rustoleum sunbrust yellow. If the prep and masking was done better I would be pretty happy with the color.

hrk

miatanutz

iTrader: (8)

I have six quarts of bright red Brightside paint available if anyone is in the mood to try it.

Fergus

Got any pics ???
I was thinking of yellow myself !

Fergus

So I've bought a 750ml tin of Toplac 'yellow 101 amarillo', rollers, sandpaper etc.
I was gonna test it out on my hard top but the buddy wants to hang on to that for a while longer (ex slashed his soft top).
Got two mudflaps to try it out on but really wanted something 'bigger'.
Well, here we go..........

OsoiNA6

Pretty damn good for $40, I'm impressed..

Fergus

I managed to get the hardtop back from the buddy a few days ago !
Well, I'm very surprised at the 'Toplac' paint. I've just tested it out on my hardtop.
I spent over 4 hours yesterday wetsanding it and the surface was like glass, the prep was perfect.
Since it was my first time using the Toplac paint it was a real sharp learning curve.
I rollered the top of the hardtop and just used an ordinary paintbrush on the narrow part along the lower end of the glass.
I did not thin the paint BTW.
The difference in the finish between using the brush and using the roller is HUGE.
Using the roller brings on the dreaded bubbles and even trying to lightly roller them out makes even more, I can see why it would need to be thinned and more than one coat would be needed that way. Even just using the weight of the roller itself to pop the bubbles doesn't work.
Using the paintbrush to just slap on the paint and then 'pull' it out/down/across/whatever gives a perfectly smooth glass-like finish !!!!
It self-levels so when you 'pull' the paint getting it roughly even it smooths itself out and the finish is F'n AWESOME ! No bubbles, no brush lines, nothing.
It's REALLY really glossy
I'm gonna give it a quick sanding when it drys and put on a second coat JUST using the paintbrush.
I'll be back.....with pictures

codeman583

can we get an update on how these have held up?

sam515

How do you eliminate roller marks?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

use self leveling paint.

sam515

Im using toplac, which i believe is self leveling, do i just need to thin it more?

Thanks

Machismo

iTrader: (1)

I've seen guys using hair dryers on low with no heat to pop the bubbles after laying down a coat. This technique is for the Enamel by Rustoleum. Haven't looked into the Toplac.
My replacement top is due and I will be doing this method for painting. I've done the Krylon out of a can and it has lasted for over 3 years now. Looks fine and has a deep shine, but I cannot express how many hours (days) were spent to get to that point. The maintenance to keep it that way sucks too. Looking for a way to cut down on the application time.
Too cold now, but come Feb. I will be Micheal Angelo'en mine again.

Bladeforger

Read the whole thread from start to finish and several other threads elsewhere. I'm going to try this with Rustoleum... in small steps.

Yesterday I put the first coat of red on a Honda CT-90 frame. It's looking pretty red so far.

If I'm happy, then the Miata's mirrors will become Rustoleum Sunrise Red. They look like kids with peeling sunburn right now with the clear coat peeling off.

Next step is the rear bumber cover--probably in a few months. Spray for plastic in the same color. I have to read more on the plastic welding process to make some repairs.

THEN, maybe later this year, I'll think about turning my old Jeep Cherokee yellow.

The red paint on the '04 Miata is doing fair for now, and I'm going to leave the main body alone for a couple more years unless I get really bored.

So far the CT frame isn't looking bad at all--it's red, anyway. I can tell you that a foam brush is NOT the way to go for small, hard to get to places. Lots of runs with the primer. For the red I used a bristle brush, with real bristles not some synthetic, and hit the fiddly spots with "fencing" strokes: jab jab jab jab swipe. The paint was thinned out to about 20% thinner and 80% paint, which is leveling more nicely than I would have thought.

Thanks, Aussie Driver, for a lot of good posts and good documentation of the steps you used!!!
Keith

Paintguru

That worked really good! You could only clearcoat it with a clear that could be thinned with mineral spirts! Dont think they have that kind of clear! Awesome 40 dollar job!