Splitime

iTrader: (24)

So... any real difference between doing it on a 1.6 and 1.8?

I can take my front outlet, and put it in the back... just making allowances for the sensor already on it up front and the sensor in the rear? Maybe just relocate it into the solid pipe I'll be running?... or would it need to be on a specific side of the thermostat?

Thanks,
Dave

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I what Olderguy did with his...I think he modified on for the back of the block then routed it into his thremo. housing in the same general location before the radiator. Should make replacing them easier.

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

so used the piece off the front of the block... as an inline thermostat. Interesting. Would simplify it.

I was planning on running a hardline along the passenger side framerail and figured I'd include an inline rad cap assembly, maybe I'll do that and thermo inline... much simpler.

Anyone have a 1.6L Thermo housing they wanna get rid of cheap?

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Yep that's what I did on my 1.8; used the original thermostat housing as an inline unit. No going back after you hacksaw the flange off though. I am using a 1.6 water neck with the hole welded shut on the back of the block with a spacer plate that holds the sensors and a port for the heater core. I got bruce's spare 1.6 water neck, he's the best.

I have a very difficult time burping all the air out of the system.

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

I'll be eliminating the heater stuff, so it'll be a hair simpler. I'll try to document it when I do it.

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

Anyone have recommendations for the size (inner/outer) of the hard line radiator piping?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

we need more pictures. I need to do this when I do the 1.8 swap.

steelrat

One of the guys here did it when he was doing a motor swap last spring.... Every once and a while, I think that would have been a good thing to do too.... <G>

He used the motor/head from an escort BP.... so..... he was able to use the thermostat flange on the back of the head. I believe he's using a 1.6 thermostat housing to direct the flow out of the motor around to the upper rad hose. However, because he's got the stock flage in the back of the head, he's just using that for the stat. Note, we mod'ed the coil pack so you can just "lift" it out of the way to get access to the stat.

Also he t'd into the heater core hose so everything still works up there too.....

Unfortunately I don't have any pics ... with the current setup. I wonder if he's got any to post....

Dave,

hustler

iTrader: (6)

is this what the coolant re-route looks like? I don't see how any water moves out of the heater core with this set up.

Mouglie

that pic could use some labels to make sence to me...

hustler

iTrader: (6)

i suck at ms paint The radiator is on the left, heater core in the back.

miatamania

iTrader: (9)

thats a pimp picture...

http://members.aol.com/solomiata/CoolantReroute.html

hustler

iTrader: (6)

thanks for the last pic. Do i have to pull the lead for the heater core feed from the front of the head, or can i just pull it from the rear and plumb the heater core return into the water pump?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

http://members.aol.com/FE3N/reroute-pic-1.jpg
why did this guy pull the heater core lead so far away?

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

This picture is real pretty, but not the best routing(in my opinion). Move the heater core feed to between the thermostat and the block so that you have circulation before the thermostat opens.

I placed the thermostat in the same line as the picture, but closer to the radiator, with an extra hole drilled in it so that it would see flow and open at the right water temperature.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

How can you move the t-stat closer to the rad and still get enough circulation to have an accurate temp?

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

The OEM t/stat has a hole to allow water to pass through. I added another so that it gets more flow(about .125"). This allows enough water to pass to let the thermostat see the temperature rise and open. Once it is open, it will control normally(reducing flow if need be).

Fritch

the heater core return already is plumbed to the water pump, and you can pretty much pull the lead wherever you want.

bhut2180

newbie question, is it necessary to reroute the cooling system like this when you do the 1.8 conversion?

Fritch

no, its not necessary at all. But some people do it while everything is apart just because they can.