Overheating issues. Calling on Markp
#1
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Overheating issues. Calling on Markp
Hey Mark, how are you man? Sometime ago I sent you a pm about my car's overheating issues and you made a few suggestions. Among these you mentioned that I should use Gunk.
This past Thursday I had the worst coolant (and oil temps!) I've ever seen in my car; the gauges went up to 220* (coolant) and 210* (oil) in the Autometer gauges.
I finally found Gunk locally but I think I misunderstood your suggestion. I read a post you made on another thread at m.net on overheating issues where you stated the following: "Ditch the coolant and run PURE water with a pint of gunk water pump lube and water wetter. DRAMATIC change."
So, here are my questions:
1- When you suggested I use Gunk you did not mean to flush the engine with Gunk for 5 minutes just before changing oil?
2- Is the Gunk you mention in that thread a different one from the one found locally?
3- I had capped the heater core; should I connect that part of the system again?
Thanks man and sorry for the inconveniences
Rafa
This past Thursday I had the worst coolant (and oil temps!) I've ever seen in my car; the gauges went up to 220* (coolant) and 210* (oil) in the Autometer gauges.
I finally found Gunk locally but I think I misunderstood your suggestion. I read a post you made on another thread at m.net on overheating issues where you stated the following: "Ditch the coolant and run PURE water with a pint of gunk water pump lube and water wetter. DRAMATIC change."
So, here are my questions:
1- When you suggested I use Gunk you did not mean to flush the engine with Gunk for 5 minutes just before changing oil?
2- Is the Gunk you mention in that thread a different one from the one found locally?
3- I had capped the heater core; should I connect that part of the system again?
Thanks man and sorry for the inconveniences
Rafa
#2
The gunk water pump lube is an additive that takes place of the lubricants in coolant that keep your waterpump from failing prematurely. Its like oil for your engine but its for the cooling system. The water wetter helps with cooling.
When you say you capped the heatercore, are the two lines that usually go to the heater connected to each other or are they just plugged?
When you say you capped the heatercore, are the two lines that usually go to the heater connected to each other or are they just plugged?
#3
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The gunk water pump lube is an additive that takes place of the lubricants in coolant that keep your waterpump from failing prematurely. Its like oil for your engine but its for the cooling system. The water wetter helps with cooling.
When you say you capped the heatercore, are the two lines that usually go to the heater connected to each other or are they just plugged?
When you say you capped the heatercore, are the two lines that usually go to the heater connected to each other or are they just plugged?
I'm a little confused. I found cans of Gunk at a local shop but the instructions say: "to pour it in the engine for 5 minutes while at idle before changing the oil and then flush out with the oil". BTW, it also says that the one being sold locally is not for turbocharged engines. It mentions another Gunk product for turbocharged engines but they don't have that one in stock.
BTW, thanks for the assistance Chad!
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I'm waiting for the Qmax system to be released to get that particular coolant reroute installed. I figure I'll get it by the first week of June.
My plans call for a total overhaul of my coolant system then.
Any assistance is more than welcome.
Edit: sorry Mach, you're right; I did connect those 2 lines together. I capped the 2 holes going to the heatercore.
#8
Solder Seal (sp?) is the company behind the "gunk" brand, and they make all kinds of stuff. Cleaners, degreasers, engine oil system flushes (which is what I think you have) and apparently water pump lube. Connect the two heater lines coming from your engine together and you problems will most likely be solved, I dont see how they could not be.
EDIT: NVM, I see that you did connect the lines.
EDIT: NVM, I see that you did connect the lines.
#11
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Solder Seal (sp?) is the company behind the "gunk" brand, and they make all kinds of stuff. Cleaners, degreasers, engine oil system flushes (which is what I think you have) and apparently water pump lube. Connect the two heater lines coming from your engine together and you problems will most likely be solved, I dont see how they could not be.
EDIT: NVM, I see that you did connect the lines.
EDIT: NVM, I see that you did connect the lines.
#12
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start by sealing up the area around the radiator, so that air caught by the mouth part all goes through the rad. You will probably win at life from that point forward.
I have Corky's pooper-scooper, but I'm going to try to get around using it because I doubt it would stay on after an off-track adventure.
Any thoughts on the gap between the fmic and rad? Should they be flush or is some gap ok?
I have Corky's pooper-scooper, but I'm going to try to get around using it because I doubt it would stay on after an off-track adventure.
Any thoughts on the gap between the fmic and rad? Should they be flush or is some gap ok?
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start by sealing up the area around the radiator, so that air caught by the mouth part all goes through the rad. You will probably win at life from that point forward.
I have Corky's pooper-scooper, but I'm going to try to get around using it because I doubt it would stay on after an off-track adventure.
Any thoughts on the gap between the fmic and rad? Should they be flush or is some gap ok?
I have Corky's pooper-scooper, but I'm going to try to get around using it because I doubt it would stay on after an off-track adventure.
Any thoughts on the gap between the fmic and rad? Should they be flush or is some gap ok?
I'd also like to know about the gap between the radiator and the I/C.
BTW, these heating issues started way before going turbo. The heat produced by the turbo just exacerbated everything!
#14
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I'm going to end up doing something like this:
#15
Are those temps F or C? If F then I really dont see a problem with those temps. What were the ambient temps at the time? Were you stuck in traffic? Did the fans come on and lower the coolant temp? Where are you reading your temps from? My cruising temps are between 180-185. When in heavy stop and go traffic my coolant temps will spike to 220* F. My fans are on the weak side so they take a long time to bring temps back down under 207 but i have already ordered better/bigger fans.
Someone also suggested that I test my temp sending unit by putting them in boiling water with another thermometer and then compare the 2. I know some people have found the temp senders to read much higher than actual.
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Someone also suggested that I test my temp sending unit by putting them in boiling water with another thermometer and then compare the 2. I know some people have found the temp senders to read much higher than actual.
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Are those temps F or C? If F then I really dont see a problem with those temps. What were the ambient temps at the time? Were you stuck in traffic? Did the fans come on and lower the coolant temp? Where are you reading your temps from? My cruising temps are between 180-185. When in heavy stop and go traffic my coolant temps will spike to 220* F. My fans are on the weak side so they take a long time to bring temps back down under 207 but i have already ordered better/bigger fans.
Someone also suggested that I test my temp sending unit by putting them in boiling water with another thermometer and then compare the 2. I know some people have found the temp senders to read much higher than actual.
Someone also suggested that I test my temp sending unit by putting them in boiling water with another thermometer and then compare the 2. I know some people have found the temp senders to read much higher than actual.
A weird thing is that temps climb very fast once I start the A/C . All those temps I'm mentioning were without A/C.
BTW, those readings were in an Autometer Water Temp gauge I installed.
I'm beginning a search for a better flowing water pump. I read sometime ago that some members are using a water pump from automatic Miatas. Anyone know of any other water pump that can be adapted?
I'm also going to buy a new thermostat. I'm going to follow Abe's advice and get a bigger one.
Anything else I may need to buy before I get the coolant reroute kit?
Thanks,
Rafa
#18
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allow the hose on the back of the head to flow back into the mixing manifold (hardpipe under header). This will allow the coolant to flow through the head better. Cant really flow if there is no where to go.
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BTW, thanks olderguy. I've seen some of your previous posts on the subject and you know your stuff. Do you have any other suggestion? Do you know of any water pump option besides the OEM one?