DeerHunter

Has anyone tested to make sure the floating rotor parts will fit and clear 6UL wheels?

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

^ Interested to know this as well.

The Joe's Racing floating bit has me perplexed. I understand how PFC's full floating assembly looks, and am also familiar with semi-floating calipers on motorcycles, but how the Joe's Racing bit integrates with an existing wilwood hat/rotor setup isn't apparent to me...

-Ryan

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

right if you have excessive caster, when the nose dives your camber increases too. excessive caster can have an ill effect on braking. normally on our cars 3* of camber is good with 5* of caster. running 35% more caster then normal threw my tires into a excessive camber number. needless to say i need to calm that caster number down to 5-6*.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

i pick NA8 calipers for two reasons. 1) it keeps the parking brake, as requested. 2) pad selection is greater for the oem miata na6 & na8 calipers.this is compared to the sport rear calipers. it's not a strong caliper. In the rear the strength of the caliper isn't as important as the strength of the front caliper.

if you already have sport rears don't bother switching out, unless you want to run Padgid or PFC.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

Ughh motorcycles. a colleague was working with yamaha racing team. he was working with them on a braking system. he had to stop when the team demanded stainless steel rotors. PFC doesn't make rotors from stainless steel because it has the braking properties of cheese. the factory team specked stainless steel because that's what the factory installed on production bikes. The reason factory uses stainless... it won't rust. the whole program was scrapped because of racing rotors that would last 2 events would rust, even though it was a huge performance advantage.

to clear up the air
the Joes racing rotor flange is just an easy way to make a 8x7" bolt on rotor into a floating rotor. the track speed wilwood hats have recesses to clear the floaters and the v8 roadsters hats look like it won't be a problem.

The ring floaters will space the rotor back towards the chassis. if anything it will give you even more clearance as the rotor and caliper will be spaced rearward. this spacing will just about be perfect on the track speed kits as the rotor center line is a bit too close to outer hub bearing.

TalkingPie

That's surprising. Even on the amateur level, it's not uncommon to run iron rotors for track. I had a coworker who ran them on his DD SV650. They looked like **** (like all iron rotors who've seen a bit of moisture) but he said they worked incredibly well.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

The V8R 11.75 rotors don't have a ton of room to move toward the chassis because they are pretty close to the steering arm/ball joint, FWIW.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

that might be an issue. i'm going to get a set of the joe's flanges and let everyone know how they fit.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

This.

Not 1mm more room to be had. I think the TSE is less than 2mm further outboard so no room there either.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

This is fun. trying to get a decent low priced kit on to a miata..
still going to give it a shot. nothing else i'll get the hats milled down slightly to accept the flanges.

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

Not sure if this is a thing but what about a spacer between the hub and rotor hat that is the same thickness as the joes flange to space the friction ring back to its original intended location?
Would increase wheel offset a bit but not drastically..

-Ryan

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

i'm not a fan of spacing out hats. i would rather take it to a machine shop and give them 50 bucks to cut it.

Ryephile

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a part number for the Joe's floating adapters? I'm looking on Joe's website and the closest I can find is a wide-5 to floater, which is obviously not it.

DeerHunter

Emilio, it seems that it might not be that hard to modify the existing kit to make it full-floating. Any chance of working with V8Roadsters to develop a premium track kit?

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

We are working on our own that will have more improvements than just floating rotors. Probably a year away though.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

With a hat like 949's 11.75 kit you are just different hole specs on the hub and rotor and some Ti brake rotor buttons away from having a full floating rotor and driving a car around paddock that sounds like you're ******* a crazy bodymod chick with a ***** full of metal. Jingle Jangle.

midpack

iTrader: (3)

A file will make non-sport pads fit sport calipers. I do this for DTC-60s, almost through my first set without any issues.

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

The two rear calipers (1.8 and Sport) cross fit the three brackets (1.6, 1.8, Sport)?
Choose caliper for piston size, choose bracket for pad size and space the bracket out to fit your desired rotor.
https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...51/#post779577 , Bob have fiddle a bit with these old brakes some time ago, and there have been few changes since then.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

i'm here if you need consulting.

http://www.joesracing.com/index.php?...roduct_id=1016
here's the link to joes web sight for the flanges. the track speed rotor uses a wide 5 8x7" bolt pattern. that's why the rotors are so cheap.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

fairly normal procedure to modify pad backing plates.