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Old 12-24-2014, 01:16 PM   #241
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i'm here if you need consulting.

http://www.joesracing.com/index.php?...roduct_id=1016
here's the link to joes web sight for the flanges. the track speed rotor uses a wide 5 8x7" bolt pattern. that's why the rotors are so cheap.
Thanks but we have R&D facilities and an engineer here.
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Old 12-29-2014, 08:36 AM   #242
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Thanks but we have R&D facilities and an engineer here.
Best of luck.
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Old 01-05-2015, 10:01 AM   #243
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any other questions?
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Old 01-21-2015, 06:15 PM   #244
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Johnny:

I race a 1995 Miata in SCCA's Improved Touring A class. It limits me to stock brakes.

I have run Carbotech XP12/XP10 (f/r) for many years, and really like the feel. However, I don't like the wear rate and cost.

What would be worth trying from other brake pad manufacturers that has similar characteristics to the XP12/XP10 ?

Thanks!
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Old 01-21-2015, 06:27 PM   #245
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Johnny:

I race a 1995 Miata in SCCA's Improved Touring A class. It limits me to stock brakes.

I have run Carbotech XP12/XP10 (f/r) for many years, and really like the feel. However, I don't like the wear rate and cost.

What would be worth trying from other brake pad manufacturers that has similar characteristics to the XP12/XP10 ?

Thanks!
12's are pretty fast wearing. I'd suggest XP24 front with XP10 rear. The XP24's will have anywhere from 40-80% longer life based on my experience. Bite is a tad higher with XP24, peak torque significantly higher. Modulation and release very similar.
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Old 01-22-2015, 11:34 AM   #246
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Does any one have input on the new Hawk DTC-50s? Hawk hasn't published a mu vs temp graph (yet) as far as I can tell.
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Old 01-22-2015, 01:42 PM   #247
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Does any one have input on the new Hawk DTC-50s? Hawk hasn't published a mu vs temp graph (yet) as far as I can tell.
No experience with them here, but this is from the Hawk site:

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Old 01-22-2015, 02:01 PM   #248
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Apparently I'm bad at looking at websites. Thanks for that.
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Old 01-22-2015, 02:04 PM   #249
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Apparently I'm bad at looking at websites. Thanks for that.
It took me forever to find too. Oh, here's the direct link in case it changes: Compound Graph | Hawk Performance
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Old 02-02-2015, 04:05 PM   #250
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Copied from thread - LINK
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Originally Posted by ofspunk7 View Post
Ok I am sort of happy I came accross this thread. Next on my list is brakes. I have a leaking brake booster and/or master cylinder. There is/was fluid leaking out of the brake booster near the master cylinder. I never physically saw a puddle or noticed my brakes were bad, but I also put only around 1K on my car after picking it up last year. It wasn't until this fall when painting the engine bay that I noticed my fluid actually went grey on me. The fluid was freshly changed by the PO, a friend of mine. So age wasn't the culprit. Also it was pretty obvious that there was an issue with the evidence that the brake fluid was leaking out of the booster and below the master cylinder.

Anyways... the brakes worked fine on my drive from the garage to my garage (storage) but they are the next thing I am going to replace. I was thinking new Brake Booster / Master Cylinder and BBk (949 11" Willwood kit) and swapping over to 1.8 Rears. Are people really suggesting to run 1.6 brakes over the 11" kit? I still have to research which master cylinder (OEM/Aftermarket for the larger fronts) and anything else suggested with the swap.

Car will see it all. Street and Track Days (I host them for my buddies shop). Technical and High Speed tracks. Typically 20 - 25 min laps. Running seperate track pads and street pads.


Pics prior to engine bay painting.


ZOOM!


For those of you joining us now part of my response will make no sense because it was copied from a different thread (see link).

My Question?
Is it really a bad idea to swap over to the 11" BBK and 1.8 rears? I am still reasearching this but made the post because I noticed some people talking about going back to OEM brake options. I am still open to "better" rear brake options that mesh with the 11" fronts better. I would hate to throw off the braking balance. Also if the key is running a different master cylinder I am 100% open to that as well.

Educate me on your opinions and SCIENCE.
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Old 02-02-2015, 04:12 PM   #251
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generally when you see a leak like that your MC is leaking into your booster. Brake fluid is nasty stuff and will eat a booster. so when you do see these leaks it's time to replace both.

if you where looking for an upgrade we do need to pick out a well balanced system that will increase braking performance. i need to ask what are your power goals, and chassis weight? do specify if that weight is with or without driver.
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Old 02-02-2015, 04:38 PM   #252
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generally when you see a leak like that your MC is leaking into your booster. Brake fluid is nasty stuff and will eat a booster. so when you do see these leaks it's time to replace both.

if you where looking for an upgrade we do need to pick out a well balanced system that will increase braking performance. i need to ask what are your power goals, and chassis weight? do specify if that weight is with or without driver.
Yeah I assume both required replacement.

Power will be around 300 - 350 at the wheels. Still tossing around running pump gas or E85. That is going to make the largest factor in power. Turbo and dyno tune scheduled for spring. Everything went good with the engine swap so a few weeks in the spring NA then we swap more stuff over. The WHP figures above are based on a previous dyno tune at an earlier stage in this setup's life.

Weight... 91 Maita. Honestly I am never going to care enough to worry about this. My track time will always be some sort of driving school/self improvement/fun. I have zero interest in racing others at this point in my life. My track time usually consists of myself with an instructor or solo running with the instructors also on track and perfecting my lines (cat and mouse). I enjoy running with my buddies who are better than me or trying to keep up with our actual driving instructors (they keep it on a learn, follow, push level) We put on multiple driving/race school at 2 different tracks throughout the year. Typically my buddy likes it when i host them because I am pretty OCD. So I over the summer I will see 1 - 2 days a month. This year will depend on the car being finished. Previous years I ran my built WRX. My lap times average 20 - 25 mins. The amount I run depends on the size of the class and how burnt out the drivers are (people on track in open lapping). I always get some good seat time at these events. Sometimes it is 2 or 3 lapping sessions... sometimes it is more than I can keep track of. It all depends on what I feel like running that day, what the students look like on the track and how open each group is (on course population).

I will be running my street tires. Currently star specs but they will need replacement this summer.

Brake Fluid is always fresh before and after track days.

Street Pads come off and track pads go on.
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Old 02-02-2015, 04:46 PM   #253
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Originally Posted by ofspunk7 View Post
Yeah I assume both required replacement.

Power will be around 300 - 350 at the wheels. Still tossing around running pump gas or E85. That is going to make the largest factor in power. Turbo and dyno tune scheduled for spring. Everything went good with the engine swap so a few weeks in the spring NA then we swap more stuff over. The WHP figures above are based on a previous dyno tune at an earlier stage in this setup's life.

Weight... 91 Maita. Honestly I am never going to care enough to worry about this. My track time will always be some sort of driving school/self improvement/fun. I have zero interest in racing others at this point in my life. My track time usually consists of myself with an instructor or solo running with the instructors also on track and perfecting my lines (cat and mouse). I enjoy running with my buddies who are better than me or trying to keep up with our actual driving instructors (they keep it on a learn, follow, push level) We put on multiple driving/race school at 2 different tracks throughout the year. Typically my buddy likes it when i host them because I am pretty OCD. So I over the summer I will see 1 - 2 days a month. This year will depend on the car being finished. Previous years I ran my built WRX. My lap times average 20 - 25 mins. The amount I run depends on the size of the class and how burnt out the drivers are (people on track in open lapping). I always get some good seat time at these events. Sometimes it is 2 or 3 lapping sessions... sometimes it is more than I can keep track of. It all depends on what I feel like running that day, what the students look like on the track and how open each group is (on course population).

I will be running my street tires.

Brake Fluid is always fresh before and after track days.

Street Pads come off and track pads go on.
weight might not mean anything to you but it will play a major factor in deciding your brakes. 300hp is a lot of power in a miata. it sounds like your going to keep it a fun street car. i would guess the weight will be around 2400lbs, with a turbo your looking at 57% cross weight. with that much mass over the front tires i would strongly recommend the 11.75" kit. i would also recommend the upgraded rear rotors to a sport size rotor. anything less with that much power and weight your going to chew up rotors constantly.
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Old 02-02-2015, 04:57 PM   #254
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I was looking at the 11" kit because they work with the wheels I have. I have not downloaded the template to check to see if the 11.75" kit will work with my tires. The 11" was pretty close to the max my tires would allow.
- Konig wide open 15x8 wheels

When speaking about a sport brake, are you saying a 1.8 brake swap?

From the limited research I have done it seems that there are only OEM brake booster options. However, there is aftermarket master cylinder options. Personally, I would like to keep my hardlines where they are in the engine bay. Any suggestions if I swap to a larger rear brake and 11"s BBK up front?
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Old 02-02-2015, 05:17 PM   #255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ofspunk7 View Post
I was looking at the 11" kit because they work with the wheels I have. I have not downloaded the template to check to see if the 11.75" kit will work with my tires. The 11" was pretty close to the max my tires would allow.
- Konig wide open 15x8 wheels

When speaking about a sport brake, are you saying a 1.8 brake swap?

From the limited research I have done it seems that there are only OEM brake booster options. However, there is aftermarket master cylinder options. Personally, I would like to keep my hardlines where they are in the engine bay. Any suggestions if I swap to a larger rear brake and 11"s BBK up front?
Miata Big Brakes, Newest VERSION 4 kit, OUR BEST FOUR WHEEL MIATA BIG BRAKE KIT- with forged four piston calipers! for Miata 1990-1993

here you go. i recommend the 11.75" if you feel like swapping out rotors a lot then get the 11". i tried to find the sport rotor -> 1.6l rear brake offset on 949 racing but couldn't. i tried though.
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Old 02-02-2015, 05:34 PM   #256
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Already running the SS lines. Would you suggest running an OEM MC with a setup like this?
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Old 02-02-2015, 06:28 PM   #257
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Already running the SS lines. Would you suggest running an OEM MC with a setup like this?
we discussed quite a few setups. most of the ones on the market will work with a oem MC.
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Old 02-02-2015, 06:41 PM   #258
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My basic knowledge of the OEM MC does lead me to believe that it will work. I guess I am more or less asking if there is an aftermarket MC that has a benefit and is worth upgrading to (without having to mess with the hardlines too much).
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Old 02-02-2015, 06:47 PM   #259
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My basic knowledge of the OEM MC does lead me to believe that it will work. I guess I am more or less asking if there is an aftermarket MC that has a benefit and is worth upgrading to (without having to mess with the hardlines too much).
a smaller master cylinder will increase line pressure, it will also increase pedal travel. a larger MC will decrease line pressure, and shorten travel. neater one will give an over all performance advantage. If you feel your pushing too hard on the pedal and you want it to be lighter, change to a smaller MC. If your running out of room in pedal area and want the travel to be shorter, change to a larger mc.
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Old 02-02-2015, 10:26 PM   #260
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I just read this whole thread today and it was a FANTASTIC read. Johnny you have a plethora of knowledge and thanks for posting this information up for others to learn!

This made me go and drive my miata. 1.6L bone stock with SS lines and OEM 1.6L brake calipers rotors and some advanced wagner silver pads on front and back.

If I am going to turbocharge my miata to around 200hp, keep the stock weight (plus the turbo setup), based on reading these articles I can conclude that upgrading to a full brake kit for say 600-5K would without a doubt improve my braking performance. However, for the guy on a budget it sounds like getting some better pads and experimenting with what a. best suits my (probably not that good) driving style and b. is applicable to environment I will be using it in is the best path forward(a couple autoxs but mostly street use).

What would your input on that be? Any recommendations?
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