aidandj

iTrader: (5)

My situation is a good example of this.

HPDE. Low budget. Turbo. Stock brakes didn't cut it.

Worked to create a kit with deezums and sean to get a wilwood caliper over a 11.5" mini rotor.

No it is not the lightest or bestest kit. But it gives me a racing caliper with a large rotor. Cheap pads. Good braking performance. And it was half the price of the equivalent 2 piece rotor kit.

For me the compromise was worth it.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

Solid rotors with fixed calipers = lots of drag. drag kills rotors and pads. the rotors move too much and really should be used with a floating rotor or a floating caliper.


i would put your mini rotors vs my PFC rotors and i bet the PFC is cheaper to run.

We did a comparison over on corvette forum. the stock c5 rotors last 5 events. we have reports of the pfc rotors still lasting after 5 years of 15 events/year. over the course of 5 years you'll go threw 15 rotors (@$90. that will cost you $1425. the pfc rotors are much less then $1425. in fact running a $200 pfc rotor will pay you back after 10 events.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I paid $22 dollars for 2 rotors.

How much is a PFC mini floating rotor? I'll test them after these run out if they are reasonable.

Couldn't find one with a brief search of the pfc website. Let me know if you have a part number. I will see how long these last.

Another factor is that I am a novice driver and am not very hard on brakes.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Well, is that why you have clearance problems?

No way any two piece rotor is near the cost of these mini rotors, lol. I think I paid $16 shipped for two?

I was looking into two piece stock sized mini rotors this afternoon and couldn't find any, would like PFC spoonfeed plz!

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I got them from where you did. I did find 2 piece rotors at one point. DBA 6000 or something. 600ish bucks.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Ha, wilwood mini hats are $160 a piece, then rings are another $80 a side.

I'm too poverty level for that ****! More than I spent in total for my brakes lol

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

If those are the cheap rings too they wont help much. We need the fancy directional non shitty rings.

Lincoln Logs

iTrader: (1)

This is a huge point that gets overlooked, the higher quality rotors last MUCH longer. It stings up front but then you aren't replacing them minimum once per year. My last set of cheap 11" Wilwood friction rings lasted 3-4 days at the track before warping and cracking.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Just curious. I know this may be out of context but I was wondering. Is this true only for miatas, or for all cars? My C63 has 1 piece solid rotors and fixed calipers for example.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

It has been my experience that quality rotors also last longer on the street as well.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

not many people put any real heat into c63's but if you did yes they would start to drag. you should see the dynamics on a solid rotor. they move quite a lot.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Link?

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

holy crap i found one. Polytec: Brake Development

brake engineers are like underwear gnomes. you need to stay up all night and catch them entering your dresser. then they will give you data from their results.



http://www.polytec.com/fileadmin/use...200x150_01.gif

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Did you find one for Mini Cooper 2 piece rotors?

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

i don't have any of those sorry.

Tim_Aus

Third time I have typed this out, yay for iPad. Please excuse the lack of links to product I reference, every time I try I loose everything I have written.

I have recently bought the v8roadster 4wheel bbk wth radial mount dynapro and prop valve. The kit was excellent, even a mechanical retard like myself was able to do 95% of the installation.

My previous near stock 1.8 setup was running project mu Rc-09 club spec pads front ~0.55 mu 850 Temp, and hc+ rear (one step down, similar stats). I liked the feel of these pads.

Now if I was smart, I would of affected minimal change at one time by having the same compounds ready to slot into the new setup. Alas even if I was able to think that far ahead I would have been Limited by the fact that project mu only make the fronts and not the 7912 rears.

So after some consultation with a winmax supplier I decided to try their pads, and apparently I have been supplied with w6.5 for the fronts, and w3 for the rear. The reason I say apparently is because they came labelled as circo m119 fronts and circo s83 rear. The fronts were not the correct thickness either,(looked about1/3 to thin...) but given my record of bad ordering I am willing to put that down to my error. I can find information on the m119 but nothing on the s83.

I have run these on one track day and to be honest I didn't like the feel, but I think there are to many factors at play to completely blame the pads (I know it's probably just driver).

The issue that I had was there was a complete lack of inital bite, and thus I dare say that most of my braking may have happened through the gear box :-/ I was able to lock the rears up no problem and not even feel much braking effect on the front.

So after all that useless information the questions I have are:

1) what setting are others who have the same kit running their prop valve at?

2) how did your pedal modulation change when you went to the new kit?

3) what are my other pad options?

Car stats:
Na8
92kw
Aero
Singular brake ducts
Hankook c51 medium grooved slicks 225/50/15

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

For the calipers you have there are plenty of options.

Performance Friction PF01 or PF11 (interchangeable compounds) (this is my favorite)
Cobalt XR2 (available from V8R)
Hawk DTC-60
Porterfield (no clue on compound)
Whatever the other one is that has the really picky break-in procedure (I honestly can't remember the brand at this moment because I need more coffee)

Tim_Aus

These are what I had planned to try next, but I've gone through all the drawings and none seem to match?

There is one that is 79x44 I think, but I'm not sure on the height of the plate.

If anyone knows the correct pfc part numbers for wilwood 7912 and 7816 it would be appreciated

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Should be 7752.01.12.44

http://www.ogracing.com/performance-...ad-01-compound

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

1) i haven't counted out the turns yet. normally what i do is set the prop valve fully closed. i open it 1/4 turn at a time. once i feel the rear end starting to shimmy under breaking i tun it closed 1/2 turn. i do this in the first warm up session of the day.


2 pedal modulation (the feel of pedal release) should increase or become better with a larger rotor.

3) six shooter covered it.