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Old 05-24-2016, 10:45 PM
  #741  
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Originally Posted by Leafy
looks like that 11.44 setup is what 2 pounds lighter than the sport rotors too? almost 4 pounds if you buy the super weight weenie drag racing only scalloped rotors.
I upgraded from the NA6 rotors which are much smaller than the sports. I didn't weight them but they are definitely lighter than the NA6 rotors. I'm really surprised it's not a more common conversion because it's so cheap, easy and very effective and matches the front 11.75" BBK upgrades.

edit: also I wouldn't run the super light weight drag racing rotors simply because with a good brake setup the rear brakes are actually taking a lot of the braking load of the car. I'm actually wearing the rear rotors far quicker than the fronts which tells me they are getting hotter probably due to them being solid rotors. I think I'm getting to the point where I need ducting to the rear to cool them better.
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Old 05-25-2016, 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Leafy
looks like that 11.44 setup is what 2 pounds lighter than the sport rotors too? almost 4 pounds if you buy the super weight weenie drag racing only scalloped rotors.
On the 11.44 wilwood rear rotors. I don't recommend using wilwoods off the shelf steel rotors in that size, they suck. I originally chose that size because it was off the shelf and seemed to balance well with 11.75"fronts. Had lots of problems with steel rotors and track use. I had custom rotors made from cast Iron the same size from Coleman racing they rock.

I originally built this kit before sport calipers were really available like 2003. It works good with sport calipers in the rear and the 1.38" piston wilwood 11.75" fronts but would still balance well going down to ~11" rotors assuming sport rear calipers. I like the feel better with sport rear calipers regardless.

Last edited by bbundy; 05-25-2016 at 03:36 AM.
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Old 05-25-2016, 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by bbundy
On the 11.44 wilwood rear rotors. I don't recommend using wilwoods off the shelf steel rotors in that size, they suck. I originally chose that size because it was off the shelf and seemed to balance well with 11.75"fronts. Had lots of problems with steel rotors and track use. I had custom rotors made from cast Iron the same size from Coleman racing they rock.
Mine are wearing but not too badly, which I think it's due to a combination of the pads I'm using and my lower power level. I'm probably not getting the same level of heat into them as you. I've found with rotors, if you can keep them in a safe thermal range they will last, but once you exceed that temp the wear level exponentially increases. If you were chewing through the Wilwoods then you'd be destroying the stock rotors too if you had them.

I did contact Coleman Racing about getting a few sets made but I think being in Australia they don't think it's worth the hassle. If ever you order some, I'd be very appreciative if I could piggy back off your order.
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Old 05-25-2016, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Madjak
I know it's probably easy for everyone to say this about their brakes, but I'm finding my set up is working very well. It's cheap to do if you can DIY and you get close to the best braking capability in a Miata.

11.75" fronts on Dynapro radial mounts - any 11.75" kit will work
11.44" bbundy Honda Wilwood rotors with a DIY stock caliper offset plate MADJAK's NA8 - 200+HP N/A - Page 1 - mx5cartalk.com
DIY booster delete modified pedal box with dual masters (0.625" front, 0.7" rear) - stock pedal ratio (4:1) https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...-delete-86683/
In cockpit balance bar adjustment
DIY 3" brake ducts to front spoiler
Ferodo DS 1.11 pads (DIY cut to shape) - I'm not sure how important pad choice is, but I'm running this pad due to it's low compressibility and flat friction curve. It's working well so far.

You really want to run the biggest rotors you can fit in the rims so that the heat load on the pads and rotors is reduced. The Dynapro radials are nice because they have thicker pads so you get longer life out of them that other calipers. The booster delete and dual masters made a massive difference to me however my engine is very extreme and so my vacuum booster was basically ineffective. I think for track work, you really need the balance bar adjustment as track conditions change to maintain optimal brakes.
Do you have a part number for the Honda Wilwood hat for the rear? Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - Rotor Hats

Is this the correct rotor? Wilwood Steel Rotors 160-0201 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

How does wheel clearance compare to the 11.75" front kit?
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Old 05-25-2016, 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Madjak
Mine are wearing but not too badly, which I think it's due to a combination of the pads I'm using and my lower power level. I'm probably not getting the same level of heat into them as you. I've found with rotors, if you can keep them in a safe thermal range they will last, but once you exceed that temp the wear level exponentially increases. If you were chewing through the Wilwoods then you'd be destroying the stock rotors too if you had them.

I did contact Coleman Racing about getting a few sets made but I think being in Australia they don't think it's worth the hassle. If ever you order some, I'd be very appreciative if I could piggy back off your order.
I had the steel ones galling up. Instead of pad transferring to the rotor the steel was ending up in my pads. deep gouges and then the braking feel starts to feel like your running backing plates for pad friction compound. horribly inconsistent braking. they are drag only rotors in my opinion. They work sort of OK with standard street pads for street use but not at the track.
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Old 05-25-2016, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by acedeuce802
Do you have a part number for the Honda Wilwood hat for the rear? Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - Rotor Hats

Is this the correct rotor? Wilwood Steel Rotors 160-0201 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

How does wheel clearance compare to the 11.75" front kit?
Brake Rotor, 1/4 / 1/2, Custom, Solid Mount

$20 more for cast Iron rear rotors so worth it.
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Old 05-25-2016, 11:42 PM
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Honestly I think somebody should just make a light reasonably priced two peace copy of the sport rear rotors. good match for 11.75 fronts assuming sport rear calipers.
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Old 05-25-2016, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bbundy
Honestly I think somebody should just make a light reasonably priced two peace copy of the sport rear rotors. good match for 11.75 fronts assuming sport rear calipers.
Doesnt like fastbrakes or something make one.

Wait, looks like they're out of production. Two-piece rotor (Slot) - MIATA MX5 (SPORT) REAR 01-05

With that honda hat could you just have colman make you 11" rotors?
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Old 05-26-2016, 01:34 AM
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Isn't that what the rear rotors in the Goodwin kit are?

--Ian
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Old 05-26-2016, 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by codrus
Isn't that what the rear rotors in the Goodwin kit are?

--Ian
The old V3s were indeed made by Racing Brake

Our V4s are 10.75", made by DBA and practically outlast the car.
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Old 05-26-2016, 02:54 AM
  #751  
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Originally Posted by ThePass
The old V3s were indeed made by Racing Brake

Our V4s are 10.75", made by DBA and practically outlast the car.
I meant the V2 ones, actually. IIRC, they're dimensionally identical to the 01+ sport rears, but use an aluminum hat and a Wilwood iron disc?

--Ian
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Old 05-26-2016, 03:03 AM
  #752  
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Originally Posted by Leafy
Doesnt like fastbrakes or something make one.

Wait, looks like they're out of production. Two-piece rotor (Slot) - MIATA MX5 (SPORT) REAR 01-05

With that honda hat could you just have colman make you 11" rotors?
I doubt a 11" rotor on the Honda hat would have enough area for the caliper / pads to act on. I'll have a quick look tonight to see if the caliper can move inwards a little. The 11.44" with the stock caliper is pretty tight to the rim, when I first installed them the caliper was clipping the wheel weights on my Kosei rims. There is slightly more room than the dynapro + 11.75" caliper on the fronts but not a lot. Really I haven't had any problems with the 11.44" Wilwood rotors however my pads are very different to what others run. Is anyone else running this setup?

btw shipping from Coleman to Aus is prohibitively expensive...around $400 US for a pair of rotors. I'll contact them again to see if there are other shipping options but for now I'm happy to run the Wilwoods.





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Old 05-26-2016, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Madjak
I doubt a 11" rotor on the Honda hat would have enough area for the caliper / pads to act on. I'll have a quick look tonight to see if the caliper can move inwards a little. The 11.44" with the stock caliper is pretty tight to the rim, when I first installed them the caliper was clipping the wheel weights on my Kosei rims. There is slightly more room than the dynapro + 11.75" caliper on the fronts but not a lot. Really I haven't had any problems with the 11.44" Wilwood rotors however my pads are very different to what others run. Is anyone else running this setup?

btw shipping from Coleman to Aus is prohibitively expensive...around $400 US for a pair of rotors. I'll contact them again to see if there are other shipping options but for now I'm happy to run the Wilwoods.
Might have to use the smaller 6 bolt hat. like the off the shelf willwood Miata front daynalite kit.
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Old 05-26-2016, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by bbundy
Honestly I think somebody should just make a light reasonably priced two peace copy of the sport rear rotors. good match for 11.75 fronts assuming sport rear calipers.
What is reasonably priced? We did a 2-piece 1.8L-sized rear rotor a couple of years ago, but scrapped the project after some fitment issues (safety wire prevented installation of the hat on the rear hub). Never got around to building a Sport version, but it wouldn't be hard. I have the ability to produce low-cost hats in quantity through my current BBK supplier and the rotors aren't difficult to procure either.
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Old 05-26-2016, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by bbundy
Might have to use the smaller 6 bolt hat. like the off the shelf willwood Miata front daynalite kit.
That one puts you really really close (~70 thou) to not having to have a spacer, assuming the 6mm plate on that setup is right in line. which basically puts you right on to being able to just use either sport brackets or any other brake caliper that uses stock sport brakes.
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Old 05-31-2016, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ThePass
The old V3s were indeed made by Racing Brake

Our V4s are 10.75", made by DBA and practically outlast the car.
yea they do. I've had them on my car since the inception. 5-6 years ago-ish. i just replaced them yesterday with the PFC 299(11.75) rear kit from v8 roadsters. i threw them on the shelf for what ever lemons car i build next.
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Old 06-02-2016, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington
What is reasonably priced? We did a 2-piece 1.8L-sized rear rotor a couple of years ago, but scrapped the project after some fitment issues (safety wire prevented installation of the hat on the rear hub). Never got around to building a Sport version, but it wouldn't be hard. I have the ability to produce low-cost hats in quantity through my current BBK supplier and the rotors aren't difficult to procure either.
I think the challenging thing might be getting the fasteners to clear brackets. If the "cast Iron" blanks could be readily had for well under $100 Id call them reasonably priced. I think sport brake rear caliper and rotor size is a good match for willwood 11.75" fronts.
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Old 06-10-2016, 10:33 PM
  #758  
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Are there any dyes that are safe for brake fluid?

I miss having blue fluid. I alternated between amber and blue, and it let me know when I got all of the old fluid out when I did a flush.
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Old 06-10-2016, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Oh4One4
Are there any dyes that are safe for brake fluid?

I miss having blue fluid. I alternated between amber and blue, and it let me know when I got all of the old fluid out when I did a flush.
I wouldn't add a substance to the brake fluid



Also... Test strips

Attached Thumbnails Anyone have any brake questions?-bad_fluid900x378-700x294.png   Anyone have any brake questions?-2-strip-results.jpg  
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Old 06-11-2016, 12:35 PM
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In our shop we look for discoloration of the brake fluid. It gets darker as it absorbs contaminants out of the air. Touch the bottom of the master reservoir. If you see anything stuck to your finger, screwdriver or whatever you are using, change the fluid.
Street cars, we flush once a year. Race cars get flushed 2-3x a year. Bleed after every 1-2 weekends.
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