Best way to remove/tap the oil pan?
01-16-2010, 05:36 PM
#21
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,172
Total Cats: 1,128
For an improperly drilled and tapped hole like most people finish with after drilling/tapping with the pan in the car, yes, use JBWeld. For a properly drilled and tapped pan with the pan removed, using Teflon tape or Teflon goo would work. Their purpose is to lubricate the NPT threads so you can screw it in tighter, making a better seal, which is done completely with the threads, not any type of liquid sealant.
Reply
0
0
01-16-2010, 06:47 PM
#23
Just my 2 pennies..I did mine off the car off,the engine.I put it on the shops Devlieg horizontal boring mill,drilled it 35/64",Tapped it 1/2"NPT,washed it in the parts washer.then I screwed my SS fitting in,and silver brazed it.Mine is PERMANENT,and 0 chips anywhere near my new bottom end.Feel free to omit the part that involves the 1/2 million dollar machine shop.but the rest might work for you.
(G)
(G)
Reply
0
0
01-17-2010, 07:38 AM
#27
This...but couldn't you have done the same job on an old Bridgeport?
Stealth97's comment is why I said pulling the motor (and pan) is the "safe" way. I'm going to have a motor out soon, and had considered drilling it on the stand and just flushing...but I'm really considered a better, more permanent solution like yours.
Stealth97's comment is why I said pulling the motor (and pan) is the "safe" way. I'm going to have a motor out soon, and had considered drilling it on the stand and just flushing...but I'm really considered a better, more permanent solution like yours.
Reply
0
0
01-17-2010, 10:19 AM
#28
This...but couldn't you have done the same job on an old Bridgeport?
Stealth97's comment is why I said pulling the motor (and pan) is the "safe" way. I'm going to have a motor out soon, and had considered drilling it on the stand and just flushing...but I'm really considered a better, more permanent solution like yours.
Stealth97's comment is why I said pulling the motor (and pan) is the "safe" way. I'm going to have a motor out soon, and had considered drilling it on the stand and just flushing...but I'm really considered a better, more permanent solution like yours.
Reply
0
0
01-23-2010, 11:26 PM
#29
Newb
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 27
Total Cats: 0
so... friends who are helping me out say I must remove the oil pan or else they won't help.
can anyone point me to a general idea of how to get the sucker off, and any possible maint. items i'll need on top of it?
can anyone point me to a general idea of how to get the sucker off, and any possible maint. items i'll need on top of it?
Reply
0
0
01-23-2010, 11:50 PM
#31
Newb
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 19
Total Cats: 0
I think I talked to you about this at the last roadster meet. I did mine on the car. I drained my oil afterwards. Any metal that is small enough to fit through the oil screen in the pickup tube should easily pass through oil pump clearances and be trapped in the oil filter.
Be a man, drill the pan on the car. If you want to be extra careful overfill your oil pan with oil, so as your drill penetrates the oil flows out the whole clearing the shavings.
Be a man, drill the pan on the car. If you want to be extra careful overfill your oil pan with oil, so as your drill penetrates the oil flows out the whole clearing the shavings.
Reply
0
0
01-26-2010, 10:17 AM
#38
If you must pull the pan, you can drop the subframe after suspending the engine from the shock towers (or nearby). Somebody is actually marketing a pipe tool for this purpose to Miata racers. It's a matter of disconnecting brake lines, shock hats and then the six subframe bolts and lowering it down. I did it with a lift and it was surprisingly simple. W/o a lift may be different.
I can't imagine using so much teflon tape that it actually gets past the threads you're trying to seal.
I can't imagine using so much teflon tape that it actually gets past the threads you're trying to seal.
Reply
0
0
