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Best way to remove/tap the oil pan?

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Old 11-30-2011, 09:56 AM
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No issues with this. AC and PS were in place at the time. Never had a leak there.

I pressurized the block with about 5psi and drilled slowly to let the shavings fall out. I also flushed with 2 gal of mineral spirits.

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Old 11-30-2011, 09:57 AM
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*Parkinson double post*
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Old 11-30-2011, 10:00 AM
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There is no way that Dewalt fit in there.
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Old 11-30-2011, 03:44 PM
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go slow when drilling and don't let the drill bit get deep into the oil pan when it finally "breaks through". you can hit the oil pickup tube with the drill bit and poke a hole in it - no bueno.
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by misfit77
There is no way that Dewalt fit in there.
Sure there is. I helped a friend drill his oil pan once with one of these:



If that monster fit, the DeWalt will fit just fine.

--Ian
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:12 PM
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I was just under there with a right angle pneumatic, right angle craftsman, normal craftsman.

With the size of the shank of the drill bit in consideration, None of those will work. I bought a cheap HB right angle drill extension and will make the craftsman chuck fit.

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Old 11-30-2011, 05:18 PM
  #67  
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The hole you need is, IIRC, 37/64". There are bits that size with reduction shanks (1/2" shanks) and bits without, you want the one with.

(That, incidentally, is why we wound up having to use that Hole Hawg -- my friend's kit had come with a non-reduction shank bit, and it was only drill we could find/rent that had a chuck bigger than 1/2").

--Ian
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:06 PM
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BEGI provide me with a 3/8" shank.
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Old 12-01-2011, 06:30 PM
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Lots of details and pictures on how I tapped in my build thread. Have put on 10K with no leaks.
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Old 12-03-2011, 11:07 AM
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I must have a weird miata.

The shank on my bit is actually 1/2 so my options were lessened.

I finally got the hole drilled by shortening the bit, drilling out a socket and pounded the socket onto the bit.
I then used a cordless socket driver.

Just enough room.
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Old 12-05-2011, 10:11 AM
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If there is not enough room for a drill, why not make the drill bit longer? I was able to drill and tap my oil pan by going through the driver side wheel well...with about 3ft of extension. With such a long extension, it is easy to make the hole absolutely straight. Put tape on the bits so when they break through, they won't suck in and hit your oil pickup (be ready for that).

https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...302#post247302

Liberal grease & frequent cleaning of the drill bits will catch 99.9% of the shavings. The mineral spirits will wash out the rest.


Removing the oil pan while the motor is still in the car as a complete and total pain in the ***. Getting the pan back on without it leaking is just about impossible with the motor in the car.


I think everyone obsesses on this the first time they do it...obscene references are soon to follow

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Old 12-05-2011, 10:48 AM
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I wanted to. I once saw a write up where the guy extended the bit.

Somehow the pwersteering was in the way.
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Old 12-05-2011, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by misfit77
I wanted to. I once saw a write up where the guy extended the bit.

Somehow the pwersteering was in the way.
"the guy" was me...I have ps & ac and did it with minimal effort. If this task is giving you problems, maybe you should have someone else do the job - there are much more difficult tasks ahead...
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Old 12-05-2011, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by secretsquirrel
"the guy" was me...I have ps & ac and did it with minimal effort. If this task is giving you problems, maybe you should have someone else do the job - there are much more difficult tasks ahead...
Wow you sound like a d1ck.

I would never want a Honda.

I am technically skilled. I have done much harder work on various vehicles. This was not a hard task, just annoying and time consuming. The stupid drain was the hardest part of my turbo install. I am done with my install, just waiting for the backorded turbo.
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Old 12-05-2011, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by misfit77
Wow you sound like a d1ck
you're welcome and good luck with the build!
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