HardHitter

iTrader: (1)

We will see once I get the parts. I'm hoping it will at least narrow down my search or areas of problem.

The MSPNP doesn't have a 12V spot to test out outside of the car.

HardHitter

iTrader: (1)

While I'm waiting for the parts I ordered, I tried to connect through MegaTuner. I'm starting to think that the problem is the MS after seeing this and the car not starting.

HardHitter

iTrader: (1)

So it seems as though everyone went cold on me haha. I'm still waiting for the new cord as well as a new ignitor module but I used MegaTune to record a log which I've attached.

Anything in the log that stands out?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

it's not the MS if you still cant run on the stock ECU. and you still haven't done things I've asked...buying a new cable wont help you. but keep just doing random **** and crossing fingers.

HardHitter

iTrader: (1)

I've been trying to do the things you've asked me to do but I haven't been able to get anything to work. You've asked me to datalog in TS, but I can't even get the MS to connect to the laptop (yet it is fine in MegaTune) then we tried to flash a new firmware onto the ECU, but again, it did not work. Then we tried putting in a new CPU and again that didn't work. I let you know but hadn't received any next steps on what to perform so I went out and bought the random crap haha.

You're the brain on helping me troubleshoot so I do want to listen to you because you've helped so much. But based upon what we've tried any thoughts on the next steps?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure why you havent busted out the car's wiring diagram and a multimeter yet and made sure you had continuity and or correct voltage on all the wires at the ecu connector yet.

HardHitter

iTrader: (1)

I have a multimeter and just checked the ECU 1A connection to ensure it is getting 12V which it is. With the MS open, all I am doing is grounding the multimeter and then touching one of the prongs on the inside and reading if it has 12V or not.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

at this point I'd stop fooling with the MS. you have some sort of power/connection issue, it might be a bad ignition switch or main relay, i'm not quite sure it doesn't help that the wiring has been hacked to ****.

Focus on getting it at least firing on the stock ECU right now; remove a variable (it might not run, but if you can get it to combust during cranking then you've made strides).


1B is the wire you need to test for voltage, 1A is constant battery.

HardHitter

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so I need to know if there are any other issues that I need to attach when trying to hook up the stock ECU.

The MAF looks to actually still be in the engine ( see @ 2:16) bay so I have to

1: Remove MS
2: Replace with stock ECU
3: Put stock airbox in (or at least just plug the MAF into the stock airbox)

Anything else that I need to hook up/install for the stock ECU to work?

Once I have the stock ECU in, any thoughts on what I should check for?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I dont see the AFM in that video, just the connector as pointed out at 2:14-2:16.

here's what I see:

1. 0:00-0:10 - Some black wire that leads into the cabin.
2. 0:10-0:20 - Add-a-fuse into the main fuse box.
3. 0:30-0:45 - Unplugged oem coolant temp sender to dash gauge.
4. 0:55-1:00 - Unsure, looks to be maybe the o2 connector? but there's a black wire going into.
5. 1:02-1:10 - Some sort of grounding block.
6. 1:20-1:40 - Another grounding block.
7. 1:45-1:50 - wire from block to thermostat housing.
8. 2:08-2:14 - another add-a-fuse.
9. 2:22-2:24 - oem 12v power connector.
10. 2:40-2:42 - white and red wires, maybe another add-a-fuse in blue tape.


You need to trace back where all the wires go on:

1, 2,4,5,6,8, and 10.

I'd work on figuring out all the rats nests that the PO added to the car. This car is not running because the PO decided to make it not run. Now you have the fun task of figuring out why people are completely retarded and hack up wiring.


to touch on 6: There should be a ground strap to the engine block to the bolt that ground block is being held down by; maybe thats what the disconnected wire is for. can you confirm if there's a ground strap or not? it should be just under the manifold and connect on the shelf right there. It would look white and braided.

HardHitter

iTrader: (1)

Sorry about that Braineack, I meant the MAF connector, the MAF itself is in a box

IMG_20130801_083451_zps6b61ab29.jpg?t=1375373703

I'll check out all the wires and track it back this weekend. How exactly can I check for continuity on wires from the engine bay to the ECU? The prongs that I have won't reach.

HardHitter

iTrader: (1)

Had a little time to do a few items:

When the ignitor module is plugged in and I turn the power to ON, the MS doesn't light up. When the ignitor module is not plugged in and I turn the car to ON, the MS lights up.

I checked prong 1B. With the car off, no power is getting to the prong. When I turn the car to the ON position, it is getting power. This again was with the ignitor module unplugged. My assumption is that if I tried it with the ignitor plugged in, no power would be getting to it as the red light doesn't come on.

I will trace all the wires back this weekend but I know that 4 goes to the O2 sensor. Some of the wires connected to the grounding blocks just seem to connect to another ground. Don't know the point of that.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I'm still thinking there's something up with your ignition switch and the way he wired the s2000 start button.

HardHitter

iTrader: (1)

Haha so where do you think I start? Trace back those wires you called out or start at the push to start.

Remember, his story is that everything was working well and then all of a sudden something happened and it doesn't start anymore. He thinks the ECU shorted out.

Everything had to be running well because he has the receipt for the MS and then a week later a dyno graph of the car at 180rwhp. So my assumption is that everything was working fine as well until this "mysterious" fault came up and now the car won't start.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

i'm sure he did with with all that stupid wiring. just find out where things are going from what I called out and we can go from there. I think there might be a short or something going on.

I would personally remove all those ground blocks and all the crap wiring if it's not important; there's no reason for it.

also have you checked all your fuses inside the cabin and bay?

HardHitter

iTrader: (1)

I'll check where the wiring goes to this weekend.

Checked the key fuses on the driver side under the dash and also in the engine bay on the passenger side

Checked the 10A “ROOM” fuse in the bottom left of the box. This supplies a constant 12V to terminal 1A of the ECU. The fuse is good and I confirmed ECU 1A gets constant 12V supply

Checked the Main EFI 30A fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box.

Checked the Main EFI relay and also bought a "working condition one" and switched it out to see if there was any change and there wasn't.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

1A is nothing. that's a just a power source for a constantly battery so your radio doesn't lose it's programming and the interior lights will come on with the doors... 1B is what matters, as that's the wht/red power that powers your CAS, ECU, injectors, etc etc etc.

but i'd check ALL fuses anyways, just to make sure.

HardHitter

iTrader: (1)

Traced where all the wires go to that you called out:

You need to trace back where all the wires go on:
1, 2,4,5,6,8, and 10.

1. 0:00-0:10 - Some black wire that leads into the cabin.
- This goes into the cabin and then looks to be into the back of the aftermarket deck. The wire itself looks like speaker wire.

2. 0:10-0:20 - Add-a-fuse into the main fuse box.
- Same as above, there is a terminal that goes into the fuse box and then that wire is fused and then the wire is the black wire that leads into the cabin as noted above. The other wire goes to a ground
IMG_20130802_154633_zps2e774da9.jpg?t=1375486973

4. 0:55-1:00 - Unsure, looks to be maybe the o2 connector? but there's a black wire going into.
- This goes to my O2 sensor on the downpipe

5. 1:02-1:10 - Some sort of grounding block.
- This has two wires on the grounding block. Both of these wires end up into the main harness. I'd have to unwrap the harness from its tape to see which specific wire its going to.
IMG_20130802_161050_zps743871ed.jpg?t=1375486763
IMG_20130802_161137_zps36ac0f90.jpg?t=1375486827

6. 1:20-1:40 - Another grounding block.
- This had a wire that connected to nothing and then a wire that connected from this ground block to the front of the coolant housing. Seemed like an unnecessary wire so I removed both.
IMG_20130802_161301_zpsb9310a99.jpg?t=1375486749

8. 2:08-2:14 - another add-a-fuse.
- These wires go into the aftermarket foglights
IMG_20130802_161638_zps1a168c5a.jpg?t=1375486726

10. 2:40-2:42 - white and red wires, maybe another add-a-fuse in blue tape.
- Goes into the cabin on the driver side but can't figure out where it goes to
IMG_20130802_161854_zps14351032.jpg?t=1375486735

You also asked me about a braided ground wire. That is not there
IMG_20130802_161320_zps938ff022.jpg?t=1375486792

Lastly, here are some pictures of what's happening under the dash
IMG_20130802_162024_zps84805868.jpg?t=1375486992
IMG_20130802_162052_zpseeb9e443.jpg?t=1375486846
IMG_20130802_162229_zps45888871.jpg?t=1375486811
IMG_20130802_162431_zps4b0eae73.jpg?t=1375486909
IMG_20130802_162444_zps1b19711e.jpg?t=1375486719

chriscar

iTrader: (24)

IMG_20130802_162229_zps45888871.jpg?t=1375486811

Those wires soldered to the ignition switch wires are for an alarm system, which I haven't seen mentioned anywhere in the thread. If it were my car, I'd rip all traces of it out.

C

chriscar

iTrader: (24)

^ just noticed you have a push button start. They may be for that, instead of an alarm. Either way, I'd make it all disappear.

C