1.6 rear end on a 40k mile turbo (160k total)
02-24-2011, 02:09 PM
#1
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1.6 rear end on a 40k mile turbo (160k total)
Running 8psi?
Am I nuts to consider buying this car? If its lasted running 8psi I guess it means the owner didnt drive like a moron? He seems pretty honest about everything. I know I would have to replace it very soon and it will be about $1k. Just want a second opinion.
Am I nuts to consider buying this car? If its lasted running 8psi I guess it means the owner didnt drive like a moron? He seems pretty honest about everything. I know I would have to replace it very soon and it will be about $1k. Just want a second opinion.
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02-24-2011, 02:16 PM
#2
Boost Czar
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it doesn't have to cost $1K to upgrade, and it won't necessarily blow if you don't abuse it.
I spent $250 on a complete torsen assembly from a local junkyard, $100 on axles, and $50 for a driveshaft.
then i sold the stock parts for $300. So 90% less than you suggested it will cost.
I spent $250 on a complete torsen assembly from a local junkyard, $100 on axles, and $50 for a driveshaft.
then i sold the stock parts for $300. So 90% less than you suggested it will cost.
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02-27-2011, 11:09 AM
#5
I still have mine going at 160,000 miles. 20 thousand on low boost. Before i read up on miata's, I would slam it in first and stand burn with 16in wheels. I still beat the **** out of it (stock wheels now) lol! I did at least 25-30 1/4 runs last year (14 sec passes) with hard launches.
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02-27-2011, 04:54 PM
#8
You don't tell us enough about the car. 8psi could be 150whp or 250whp... give us more info.
If it's street-driven responsibly, 200whp is no big deal. But 200whp drifting and doing drag-launches spells trouble... especially if there's some decent rubber out there.
I put about 100k miles on a 1.6 dif between 180-220whp and was what I would call "street abusive"... but no drifting or clutch-drop launches. And that was all on 195series Toyos T1S/T1R, so not too sticky, but not stock either.
Tell us more about the car, link the ad, post pics, put up a build list... making a buying decision on a 100% dead-easy cheap repair/replace item doesn't make sense to me.
If it's street-driven responsibly, 200whp is no big deal. But 200whp drifting and doing drag-launches spells trouble... especially if there's some decent rubber out there.
I put about 100k miles on a 1.6 dif between 180-220whp and was what I would call "street abusive"... but no drifting or clutch-drop launches. And that was all on 195series Toyos T1S/T1R, so not too sticky, but not stock either.
Tell us more about the car, link the ad, post pics, put up a build list... making a buying decision on a 100% dead-easy cheap repair/replace item doesn't make sense to me.
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02-28-2011, 01:50 AM
#9
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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thanks everyone! Makes me feel better. I got a quote from a miata specialist and it was 1.5k to upgrade to a 1.8, that included everything.
Did you swap it yourself? If so, was it easy? I dont know if I could do it.
lol! Sounds like you guys have been lucky.
Im not sure how much whp its on. I dont think the guy has abused it (drifting, clutch drops) but I do think he has driven fast on the roads. I only have got one quote for a 1.8 rear end and everything came to $1.5k. I have the money to do it immediately so if it went its not terrible. The last car I bought ended up needing 3.5k in repairs and needed new tires so Im very worried it will happen again. I guess my main concern was that I would have to change it immediately and possible have some other issues but it seems I could get away with it for a bit longer. I think I'll have it inspected and if its in good condition I'll buy it.
This is what has been done to the engine
GReddy Turbocharger
305cc injectors
Head ported
Innovate Wide Band O2 + gauge
2core aluminum radiator.
Bowser Heat Shield
BRPerformance Bipes ACU
2.5" Enthuza Turbo Exhaust
2.5" Racing Mazda Downpipe
Jackson Racing High Flow Cat
Stripes Intercooler Pipes
18x12x2.5 Intercooler
Greddy Type RS BOV
K&N Air Filter
BEGi AFPR
Walbro 190 Fuel Pump
TrackDog Radiator Cowl Cover
SPEC Stage 2 Clutch
Braided Clutch Lines
it doesn't have to cost $1K to upgrade, and it won't necessarily blow if you don't abuse it.
I spent $250 on a complete torsen assembly from a local junkyard, $100 on axles, and $50 for a driveshaft.
then i sold the stock parts for $300. So 90% less than you suggested it will cost.
I spent $250 on a complete torsen assembly from a local junkyard, $100 on axles, and $50 for a driveshaft.
then i sold the stock parts for $300. So 90% less than you suggested it will cost.
I still have mine going at 160,000 miles. 20 thousand on low boost. Before i read up on miata's, I would slam it in first and stand burn with 16in wheels. I still beat the **** out of it (stock wheels now) lol! I did at least 25-30 1/4 runs last year (14 sec passes) with hard launches.
You don't tell us enough about the car. 8psi could be 150whp or 250whp... give us more info.
If it's street-driven responsibly, 200whp is no big deal. But 200whp drifting and doing drag-launches spells trouble... especially if there's some decent rubber out there.
I put about 100k miles on a 1.6 dif between 180-220whp and was what I would call "street abusive"... but no drifting or clutch-drop launches. And that was all on 195series Toyos T1S/T1R, so not too sticky, but not stock either.
Tell us more about the car, link the ad, post pics, put up a build list... making a buying decision on a 100% dead-easy cheap repair/replace item doesn't make sense to me.
If it's street-driven responsibly, 200whp is no big deal. But 200whp drifting and doing drag-launches spells trouble... especially if there's some decent rubber out there.
I put about 100k miles on a 1.6 dif between 180-220whp and was what I would call "street abusive"... but no drifting or clutch-drop launches. And that was all on 195series Toyos T1S/T1R, so not too sticky, but not stock either.
Tell us more about the car, link the ad, post pics, put up a build list... making a buying decision on a 100% dead-easy cheap repair/replace item doesn't make sense to me.
This is what has been done to the engine
GReddy Turbocharger
305cc injectors
Head ported
Innovate Wide Band O2 + gauge
2core aluminum radiator.
Bowser Heat Shield
BRPerformance Bipes ACU
2.5" Enthuza Turbo Exhaust
2.5" Racing Mazda Downpipe
Jackson Racing High Flow Cat
Stripes Intercooler Pipes
18x12x2.5 Intercooler
Greddy Type RS BOV
K&N Air Filter
BEGi AFPR
Walbro 190 Fuel Pump
TrackDog Radiator Cowl Cover
SPEC Stage 2 Clutch
Braided Clutch Lines
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